Neutral switch

N

neandethal

Junior member
Location
oakham
Hi,
My Monty has a silly issue, the neutral light only comes on if bike is in second gear.
I thought there was usually a detent depression in the selector drum that the switch moved into making the circuit.
So not sure how this error happens.
Any enlightenment would be much appreciated, thank you Ian
 
On the bottom of the crankcase. Follow the neutral light wire.
Be VERY careful when disconnecting the wire.
Overtorquing will cause the insulator to fail.
 
Forgotten our homework again have we Mr.Sock? ;)

Going to be a long, fruitless search at the bottom of the cases... the 500s, along with all subsequent Laverda 4-valvers, have the neutral switch located close to the drive sprocket, in the side of the crankcase.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Forgotten our homework again have we Mr.Sock? ;)

Going to be a long, fruitless search at the bottom of the cases... the 500s, along with all subsequent Laverda 4-valvers, have the neutral switch located close to the drive sprocket, in the side of the crankcase.

piet
Click to expand...
Fifty years on a Triple, and an SF for the last year, means my database is conditioned by real Laverdas, Piet. ;)
 
The Sock said:
But only with a quick, and light, rider on them, Andy.
Short circuits, maybe, but not over long distances.
Click to expand...
Class victories at Montjuic '78 and '79. Did a few more than a dozen miles over the course of 24 hours...

The 750s had long faded and triples no longer get a foot on the ground by then. The 500s were extremely capable bikes in their own right.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Class victories at Montjuic '78 and '79. Did a few more than a dozen miles over the course of 24 hours...

The 750s had long faded and triples no longer get a foot on the ground by then. The 500s were extremely capable bikes in their own right.

piet
Click to expand...
Much as I loved Track Days, I was never a racer.
Never wanted to be.
My benchmark is the road.
Breganze and back, on a Monty, with 500+ mile days, no thanks.
 
Why only just yesterday I finally decide to fix the pesky oil leak from the neutral light switch? Perhaps as much as a quarter of a teaspoon would form beneath the bike if it (the 1200) sat for a week or so; nothing under the 1000. 49 years of owning Laverdas, and this was the first time I ever had to touch the neutral light switch.
A simple task which required contortions on my part; no motorcycle lift, but a mirror did help. 5 minutes of work replacing the required washer and done...hang on, now the light doesn't work. Try again, and again, and again- finally, eureka: we have a light working. I must remember to schedule this task in another 49 years or so if needed. My lucky day; I even had a 'bung' at hand.
 
78jotadave said:
Why only just yesterday I finally decide to fix the pesky oil leak from the neutral light switch? Perhaps as much as a quarter of a teaspoon would form beneath the bike if it (the 1200) sat for a week or so; nothing under the 1000. 49 years of owning Laverdas, and this was the first time I ever had to touch the neutral light switch.
A simple task which required contortions on my part; no motorcycle lift, but a mirror did help. 5 minutes of work replacing the required washer and done...hang on, now the light doesn't work. Try again, and again, and again- finally, eureka: we have a light working. I must remember to schedule this task in another 49 years or so if needed. My lucky day; I even had a 'bung' at hand.
Click to expand...
It'll probably keep leaking Dave.

The alloy washers hold up for decades without issues, it's usually the switch itself that leaks. Oil finds its way between the steel body and the plastic isolator. Probably just deterioration of the plastic, they weren't meant to last 50 years. With a suitable press tool they can easily be re-sealed.

Feel free to prove me wrong... ;)

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
It'll probably keep leaking Dave.

The alloy washers hold up for decades without issues, it's usually the switch itself that leaks. Oil finds its way between the steel body and the plastic isolator. Probably just deterioration of the plastic, they weren't meant to last 50 years. With a suitable press tool they can easily be re-sealed.

Feel free to prove me wrong... ;)

piet
Click to expand...
Piet, thanks for your reply. Here's the thing: yes, the neutral switch still leaks, but not when it is being ridden. On my recent ride, after replacing the washers, there was no leakage at all, and I checked multiple times. But when the bike is parked at home and the engine cools off, the leak is there, probably like you wrote: leaking between the steel body and the plastic insulator.
 
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