New aftermarket main fuse box?

Paul LeClair

Paul LeClair

Administrator
Staff member
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
my 79 1200 original wiring harness has been problematic since I bought the bike in 1999. Last year I bought from Wolfgang a complete new old stock wiring harness, which is next on my garage project list to install.

the original European main fuse holder is long gone, replaced with a basic blade fuse holder for the few fused circuits on the bike.

I would like to find and install a really high quality main fuse holder, waterproof, for blade fuses. Anyone?

So far I have found:

http://www.cycleterminal.com/atc-fuse-box.html

http://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html

http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/powerhub2-fuse-block-master-ground-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles      which is way more than I need

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Blue-Sea-6-CircuitNegative-Bus_p_51.html    I like this one

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rivco-6-circuit-fuse-block    not bad but needs a waterproof cover

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motorcycle-fuse-block  lots of alternatives on eBay

anyone have a better suggestion?

Paul LeClair



 
Paul, have a look at Vehicle Wiring Products here in the UK, they have several fuse boxes in their catalogue (free). Stuart
 
Hi Paul,

On my racebike I used the Metripack 280 based fuse block, just the 3-way one which was already larger than I need but they do a 4-way also.  Assuming the right crimp tool is used I reckon that's the most rugged option available, no extra terminals onto the fuse block to get corrosion in them, fully sealed, automotive OEM quality.  A bit more work to fit to a stock bike due to different shape / terminals etc but IMHO that's the most bomb proof option.
On my road bikes I have generally just used a 4 or 6-way plain blade fuse block like this:
1944.png

available at most auto electrics places.  On an RGS they are a direct fit with no wiring mods required.
I try to get a Hella or Narva branded one, but they likely come out of the same chinese factory as the cheapies on ebay.    I have had no problems with them, however the metricpack one is for sure more rugged.

HTH
SteveB
 
Hi Steve

the MetricPack 280 fuse block is inexpensive, looks really well made, and I like the idea of being able to use the available micro relays. I don't know how much amperage a pair of Laverda horns draw, I am using a Bosch 40 amp relay right now for the horns, the micro relays are rated at 20 amps, wondering if 20 amps is enough?

http://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html

was actually second on the list on my first post.

I have such large voltage drops throughout the original patched wiring harness of the 79 1200 I think just replacing the entire harness with brand new will go a long way, but I still want to run various circuits off relays, mainly horns, and ignition coils. I am also replacing the handle bar switch blocks with brand new, should also help.

Paul LeClair
 
With the modifications you're doing (relays, new handlebar switches) you may as well start from scratch and make your own wiring harness rather than modifying an existing one. If you use spiral wrap to hold it all together, you can add circuits or modify it later without it all looking messy.
 
Paul,
I'm using 20A micro relays for quite some time on the RGA and have had no problems.  Even if they draw a little more the horn duty cycle is so low that they are unlikely to be worried.  I like the micro relays (half the width of the typical cube shaped mini relays) and have used them on many bikes, particularly nice with the interlocking bases which make mounting how ever many you want a breeze.  Also nice from the respect that if a relay fails you can pinch one from a non-essential function - eg high beam - and just swap it over and keep going.
Cheers
SteveB
 
Paul - I use this one from Eastern Beaver on my KTM... top quality product and great guys to deal with:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only
 
as usual, most of you are way ahead of me...... looks like some great choices available.

as for the suggestion that as I am modifying things anyways so might just go ahead and make an entire wiring harness from scratch, that is not something I have ever tackled before on my own. I seem to remember various "improved" proposed wiring diagrams circulating in the past, I would definitely need some guidance.

I did successfully install a brand new modern wiring harness in my Triumph Spitfire car project a couple of years ago, with modern fuse panel, relays, etc., but all I really had to do there was follow directions. I wonder if I have evolved electrically far enough to take on the project of making a modernized Laverda triple wiring harness from scratch, with a relay for every major circuit.

I am going to do a little more research, if anyone has a "modernized" wiring diagram that would work for a 79 1200 I would greatly appreciate it.

Paul LeClair
 
Paul, I have built looms from scratch 3 times now.
So if I can do it I'm sure you can do it.
The one on POP was the first and had to tie in the Redax Sachse ignition with Kawa alternator, modern Suzuki switchgear, m-Unit, 4 extra relays, modern Shindengen r/r and so on.
(Very) luckily for me someone made me a bespoke wiring diagram (thanks Cam) but it still had to be turned into a 3D reality and find new homes for all the electrics due to he monoshock being in the way.
t was a tough task, but very rewarding in the end.
I still hate electrics but am no longer wary of them.
 
Ok Grant, you are hereby nominated as  elecktrickery guru! Simplest way to get horns to work?!they not seized etc , battery starts engine first stab, horns don't work, smallest peep, until engine running? Relays?
 
Are they solidly mounted?  Unless they are on springy mounts (or they are loosely done up)  they don't seem to work properly, just get a muffled peep.  Having the engine running seems vibrate them enough to work.
 
nick7 said:
Ok Grant, you are hereby nominated as  elecktrickery guru! Simplest way to get horns to work?!they not seized etc , battery starts engine first stab, horns don't work, smallest peep, until engine running? Relays?
Click to expand...

as Grant just said, a circuit with a relay in it is easiest. Take a voltage meter and test voltage right at the horns. Odds are high that with the now roughly 40 year old wiring harness that the horns are likely only seeing around 8 volts, not 12 +. When the bike starts running, the charging system likely bumps the available voltage enough to at least get the horns to peep.

using a relay, the horns get a full twelve volts + directly from the battery, the horn button wiring is only used to trigger the relay, the voltage for the horns no longer goes through the horn button. In the stock Laverda horn circuit the horns are powered full time, and triggered by grounding. I reversed the circuit so the horns are grounded full time and only receive power when the horn button triggers the relay.

Paul LeClair
 
Grant said:
Paul, I have built looms from scratch 3 times now.
So if I can do it I'm sure you can do it.
The one on POP was the first and had to tie in the Redax Sachse ignition with Kawa alternator, modern Suzuki switchgear, m-Unit, 4 extra relays, modern Shindengen r/r and so on.
(Very) luckily for me someone made me a bespoke wiring diagram (thanks Cam) but it still had to be turned into a 3D reality and find new homes for all the electrics due to he monoshock being in the way.
t was a tough task, but very rewarding in the end.
I still hate electrics but am no longer wary of them.
Click to expand...

Hi Grant

I suspect I could do it from scratch with the help of a bespoke wiring diagram, as I am good at following diagrams and instructions. Drawing out a bespoke wiring diagram on the other hand, I doubt I am up to that task. IIS ignition and charging system, left hand switch gear provided by Wolfgang with choke assembly integrated and different wiring, want to run most major circuits through relay's, especially starter, coils, lights, horn.......

I must confess I keep going back to look at the second generation Moto Gadget product, electrical porn...... 
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/electronic-control-box-m-unit/m-unit/m-unit-digit-tastersteuerung-u-sicherung.html

Paul LeClair
 
Hi Paul

If you're considering an M-Unit, get hold of the detailed specs and operating instructions to make sure it will do exactly what you want it to do. They're a clever little box of tricks but sometimes the functions you want are not there (like the ability to switch off the headlight). It then becomes a somewhat more complicated work-around to get the functions you need and the wiring ends up more complicated than it would have been without the M-Unit.

Happy to work with you to develop a bespoke wiring diagram (with or without M-Unit) if you decide to go that way.

Cheers,
Cam
 
Dellortoman said:
Hi Paul

If you're considering an M-Unit, get hold of the detailed specs and operating instructions to make sure it will do exactly what you want it to do. They're a clever little box of tricks but sometimes the functions you want are not there (like the ability to switch off the headlight). It then becomes a somewhat more complicated work-around to get the functions you need and the wiring ends up more complicated than it would have been without the M-Unit.

Happy to work with you to develop a bespoke wiring diagram (with or without M-Unit) if you decide to go that way.

Cheers,
Cam
Click to expand...

thanks so much for the offer, Cam. In reality I suspect the M Unit is overkill for the relatively simple requirements of a Laverda triple, and the complexity is of concern if something were to go wrong with the M Unit itself.

I am leaning towards http://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html with the addition of the 20 amp micro relays for the major circuits. Seems a shame to cut up what must be one of the last new old stock wiring harnesses on the planet so starting from scratch is beginning to seem a decent option. I will do a little more research then get back to you, thanks!

Paul LeClair
 
Practically in your back yard Paul, $27

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/100-30a-led-micro-blade-fuse-block/A-p8479495e

Stu
 
Hi Paul,
If the bike has the later BTZ type wiring harness, there really is not all that much wrong with them.  Unless the insulation has hardened and cracked (usually only happens to pickup wires) there's nothing much wrong with the old wires themselves, copper is not milk, it does not go off.  The only problem is usually at points of connection, due to corrosion & cracking in the wire near the end, or corrosion & weakening of the contact pins.
You need good solid wires and connections from fuses to relays, and from them to the device, all the high current stuff with freshly made connections.  I put 3 relays generally, low beam, high beam and horn.  One for ignition may or may not help depending on the state of your ignition switch and kill switch, but once again if the terminations are re-made then current required for ignition system is only an amp or less, so it's not usually a sensitive circuit.  I would just modify the original BTZ harness as required to suit the relays you want to use, re-terminate ignition switch and both switchblocks.  Also re-terminate or replace the big 6-pin spade connector to the fusebox, that's also a common place to get bad connections.
Like others I find the m-unit a great idea but not configurable enough for a "normal" bike, the idea of having to have an m-unit plus a number of relays seems like way too many things to go wrong.
HTH
SteveB
 
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