New tires for 750 SF

I had a heavy duty tube fitted up front on the GS100 BM to use MT21 knobby. It was so heavy on the next tyre change I replaced it with a normal one. Agree with Piet re tube weights.
 
I doubt you will find an angled tube valve, I went looking for a 90-degree one to help get an airline on with the big rear hub but they are only made for tiny scooter tubes.
 
TeddyG said:
Sock- thanks for the tip on testing for a tube which I'll try. One tire installer claimed that radials don't fit tubes that well (not sure if true or not). For now I'm thinking keeping standard 100/110/90 and a bias ply Bridgestone BT 46. Would like to get tubes w/ angled valve stem if possible. Main goal is to replace these hard 8 yr old Shinkos that have no wear since the bike wasn't ridden by the seller-
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Tyre fitters will gladly recite such fairy tales. Radial tyres can be fitted with tubes, no issues at all. We often haven't any options, not many dedicated tube-type tyres being made these days. Radials may not unleash their full potential if fitted with tubes, but I'd say that would be a secondary consideration with our clunkers, they're more than adequate. Radial tyres have soft sidewalls that help them do their magic, tubes will minimise that effect somewhat. The biased BTs also have quite soft sidewalls and display many characteristics of radials, probably what makes them so good.

Never seen angled valves in our wheel sizes, these are usually reserved for scooters and 16" Harley wheels. 90° angled valve adapters are available from bike accessory suppliers. These are meant for inflating/checking only and should not remain fitted while riding!

piet
 
TeddyG said:
Sock- thanks for the tip on testing for a tube which I'll try. One tire installer claimed that radials don't fit tubes that well (not sure if true or not). For now I'm thinking keeping standard 100/110/90 and a bias ply Bridgestone BT 46. Would like to get tubes w/ angled valve stem if possible. Main goal is to replace these hard 8 yr old Shinkos that have no wear since the bike wasn't ridden by the seller-
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The BT46s are, in my opinion, a good choice. I'd suggest 110/90 front and rear, if on standard WM3 rims, straight valve tubes and buy one of these for easy inflation.

90 degree inflater.jpg
 
Andy said:
What’s the advantage here, versus the standard?
Sounds interesting, just curious what the reasoning is 👍
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They came, or at least mine did, with same size front and rear tyres (4.10 TT100s, in my case). From track day experience the 110/90s gave far bigger margins, when heeled over.
I've never been happy pushing the front wheel. I like it to stay where I put it.
With same size front and rear, it allowed me to put every second new tyre on the front. Fitting the part worn front on the rear.
That means you're never running a front that's worn close to the limit.
 
For nimble handling, a 100/90 up front is the better option. A 100/80 works even better, but looks rather forlorn and silly under the front mudguard.

A 110/90 makes the front feel heavy, very much like a jap bike of the same era. Much the same applies for the triples.

Personally, I'm trying to stick to the original 3.50/4.00 on the 750. Sadly, BT46 are not available in these sizes. Guess my next set for the GTL will be from Heidenau, very pleased with them on the Matchless.

My $0,02.

piet
 
I fit between 20 and 40 new tyres a week. Borrani alloys are fairly easy to work with. Jota rims are the hardest of any wheel. A combination of the second rim at the same height as the outer rim, easily damaged by the machine biting, and the well in the centre of the rim being very shallow. Lot of care needed for Lav alloys. The RGS rims also have a very shallow well.

I only run tubeless on both my mag wheels and my spoked wheels. Last time I fitted what I thought was a good quality Michelin tube to the rear of my 3C, it split along the seam at 120km/h through a sweeper. Brown pants moment........
 
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Vince said:
Marty what do you make of this.
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Risky business, the mind boggles... 10/10 for ingenuity though.

Depending on tyre/rim combo, the tyre bead may not seat itself properly due to the now incorrect rim diametre.

Guess everybody should decide for themselves if converting basically incorrect rims to tubeless operation is the way to go.

Where's that road at the end of the "tutorial"? The most interesting part imho.

piet
 
I do not see any Oz road clues other than what looks like old fire damage to the trees, I was thinking Hotham but maybe not with what looks like the Ocean in the background. Never seen bike parking bays in the corner like that before either.
 
Vince said:
I do not see any Oz road clues other than what looks like old fire damage to the trees, I was thinking Hotham but maybe not with what looks like the Ocean in the background. Never seen bike parking bays in the corner like that before either.
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Bikers actually adhering to parking bays? :ROFLMAO: The first 2 or 3 that arrive, maybe. But after that, it's usually chaos.

The forest growth certainly looks like Oz and the cars are all driving left... or are they all drunk?

piet
 
Should have been a 100/90-18 Rob, for the front of your SFC, what's on the Motodd, 110/80-18?

Never seen that method Vince, But hey the guy seems happy enough with it. Don't think I would trust it
 
Yeah Marty, I needed new tyres and the shop only had the 110/90 in stock so I went with that. Early days in Sydney with the SFC.
About to get new tyres again so will go weith 100/90 this time. Looking for something sticky as it'll only see track time.
Motodd running 110/80 on the 2,75 gixxer rims.
 
Blimey, I've not come across that method of going tubeless before. Although it's really only 50% tubeless because he's still using half the tube :unsure:

It's not for me though. I reckon the risks associated with doing that don't outweigh the marginal advantages it offers.
 
Apparently, it's a Mountain Bike thing, new to me as well. So is that method where you only use Car Body Panel adhesive to seal rims as well. One of the biggest issues is being still able to adjust the spokes and not compromise the air seal. BTW you can buy megabuck rims that come with built-in sealability if money is no object.

Kineo Wire Spoked Motorcycle Wheels for Tubeless Tyres

www.bikehps.com www.bikehps.com
 
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