New Tires

1

1969mustang

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Location
Alberta Canada
Im getting a set of Bridgestone BT46 fitted later in the week to my 1981 Jota, Standard size tires, Cast wheels.
Ive ordered new tubes, but just found that the tires that are fitted are in fact tubeless and have the valve adaptor / sealing device inside the rim, i thought it was a tube until i removed the 10mm nuts and it dropped inside !

Im of the mind that i will run tubes in the new tires , is this the right decision ? im wary of rapid tire deflation, particularly on the front ,
Most of my riding is black top / sealed but fairly quiet roads, so not a lot of traffic and sketchy cell coverage ? any thoughts on that ?

The Original front tire has always lost air when parked.

With tubes fitted what are the availabe options of a roadside repair in case of a flat,,, other than tire removal and tube patch ??

Thanks
 
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The cast wheels should always have tubes fitted ........ they wouldn`t have been intended for a tubeless application originally , and I certainly wouldn`t risk trying to run them without tubes , even if the valves could be made to fit . The tyres I fitted always seemed only to be available as a tubeless option , so that`s what went on ........

I always carried a foam aerosol inflator , but they are next to useless when dealing with a holed tube , but I carried one anyway ..... you never know ........

Removing the rear wheel couldn`t be easier , but breaking the grip between bead and the cast rim at the roadside isn`t exactly easy ...... never mind re-inflating to the pressure where it pops back into place........ so basically you`re a bit buggered , really ....

It could be possible to remove wheel , remove tyre , fit new tube , replace tyre and refit wheel at the roadside , provided you carried the tools with you to do so .... ( I used an old valve spring compressor as a bead breaker ) ..... but it`s not the sort of thing I would really enjoy doing ....... especially if it was pissing down with rain ......

BTW ..... never use patched tubes on a 140 mph motorcycle ..........

The two or three times I suffered a puncture , instead of calling out the recovery service , I found I could just continue on the flat tyre ......... at a reduced speed obviously , and providing I wasn`t a million miles from home ........

At least the cast rim kept the flat tyre in place , the only problem being that if the tyre wasn`t shagged when you got the puncture , it almost certainly will be by the time you arrive back home .........
 
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1969mustang said:
Im getting a set of Bridgestone BT46 fitted later in the week to my 1981 Jota, Standard size tires, Cast wheels.
Ive ordered new tubes, but just found that the tires that are fitted are in fact tubeless and have the valve adaptor / sealing device inside the rim, i thought it was a tube until i removed the 10mm nuts and it dropped inside !

Im of the mind that i will run tubes in the new tires , is this the right decision ? im wary of rapid tire deflation, particularly on the front ,
Most of my riding is black top / sealed but fairly quiet roads, so not a lot of traffic and sketchy cell coverage ? any thoughts on that ?

The Original front tire has always lost air when parked.

With tubes fitted what are the availabe options of a roadside repair in case of a flat,,, other than tire removal and tube patch ??

Thanks
Click to expand...
A lot of tyres these days have a designation ( TL or TT ) on the sidewall or product listing to denote whether it's Tube Less or Tube Type.
I was told there is a difference on the inside of the tyre carcass. Tube Less is ribbed so fitting a tube was not recommended. Tube Type is smooth so there is no friction between the ribbing & tube as the tyre flexes which might cause a tube to fail.
 
F500fan said:
A lot of tyres these days have a designation ( TL or TT ) on the sidewall or product listing to denote whether it's Tube Less or Tube Type.
I was told there is a difference on the inside of the tyre carcass. Tube Less is ribbed so fitting a tube was not recommended. Tube Type is smooth so there is no friction between the ribbing & tube as the tyre flexes which might cause a tube to fail.
Click to expand...
They do specify this, but I think largely due to the same bullshit that tells you not to drink the electrolyte from your battery.
It might cause an issue, if you ran fully loaded with under-inflated tyres, but that'd be the rider's fault, IMO.

I've run tubes in "TL" marked tyres on my Triple for more than 25 years/50,000 miles , including 500+ mile, high-cruising speed (three figure) days.

Never had a problem, yet.IMG_5981.JPG
 
Ditto re tubes on 'tubeless' tyres. When i first fitted wide 17 inch rims I was told you CAN'T fit tubes!! Total bullshit. I've been through probably 5 sets of 17 inch tyres, all tubeless and ALL run with tubes, track days (Phillip Island, very fast!), high speed open road, extensive dirt riding.

Haven't had a flat on the 17s yet, but did get one in the middle of outback Queensland in 1975 on std size 18s. Carried a small pump, spare tubes, short tyre levers. Not fun, but definitely doable.

In the moto workshop in the 70s (no tyre machine), the rubber mallet was our friend.
 
The Sock said:
They do specify this, but I think largely due to the same bullshit that tells you not to drink the electrolyte from your battery.
It might cause an issue, if you ran fully loaded with under-inflated tyres, but that'd be the rider's fault, IMO.

I've run tubes in "TL" marked tyres on my Triple for more than 25 years/50,000 miles , including 500+ mile, high-cruising speed (three figure) days.

Never had a problem, yet.View attachment 105005
Click to expand...
Sock, no corners on the way to the Black Swan…🤣🍻
 
hooksey said:
Sock, no corners on the way to the Black Swan…🤣🍻
Click to expand...
We’ve got the Romans to thank for many straight roads around my neck of the woods, Hooksey.
It’s my fifty years of burnout fame that and the covid induced supply delays that led to that tyre getting so worn, before replacement.
 
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This topic has always been controversial. Many of us have run tubeless for years with no issues, including myself. Im not endorsing one or the other....use the Search function...there is lots of info there...and make your own decision.
 
The Sock said:
They do specify this, but I think largely due to the same bullshit that tells you not to drink the electrolyte from your battery.
It might cause an issue, if you ran fully loaded with under-inflated tyres, but that'd be the rider's fault, IMO.

I've run tubes in "TL" marked tyres on my Triple for more than 25 years/50,000 miles , including 500+ mile, high-cruising speed (three figure) days.

Never had a problem, yet.View attachment 105005
Click to expand...
I'm with you guys ! Have ALWAYS run tubes regardless. Was simply passing on the information I was given. Think it's just one of those " we are covering our arses " statements that manufacturers put on everything these days to prevent ridiculous liability claims.
 
Tubes are a pain. On Suzuki GSs, some rims from the same year were marked tubeless, others weren't. Someone figured out it was whether or not the rim was countersunk for the TR4/6 tubeless valve stems, not the bead profile. Anyway, some countersunk them and others, like me, used a stem that didn't need countersinking, successfully. But caution is warranted, regardless. If this is already common knowledge and covered in other threads, beat me, scold me, and abuse me like Helga does. She's $200 an hour so it'll be a bargain.
 
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