Newbie SFC 1000 doesn't start

B8es plugs, bet there wet.You are probably going to need to learn THE RITUAL your bike needs to start. Part of the fun
 
get the Mrs to give you a push up and down the road with ignition on, chuck it into second and drop the clutch.

If the standard ignition is fitted, that's the way to do it, IMHO.
 
ok need to know what is happening, went home to remove the plugs.

Especially the outer plugs smell petrol and are slightly humid and black. Its breathing now with a towel on the head.

The plugs I removed are Champion N2C, what do you recommend? B8es is NGK I suppose

I don't see my high heels Mrs push, guide probably yes..

On my way to work again
John
 
The B8es are NGK , what came out are close to the equivalent in Champion I think. One of the brains trust here prefer the latter as there 1/2 a heat range better I think, see Piet I pay attention.
 
NGK B8es are more or less the equivalent of Champion N3.   
The Champion N2C, NGK equivalent is B9es, is a colder plug than the N3C.
Better to use the colder plug for your SFC1000 engine, which has high comp pistons.
I use Champion N2C in my Jota and they work very well.

Tom
 
SFC1000 uses Champion N2C... that's what they came with and that's what I fit.

Stock ignition system is renowned for cold start fouling, a royal pita.  After a while, you'll find out just how much choke is required to bring the bugger to life.  More sophisticated/modern ignition systems usually solve this problem.  Other types of plugs are just as prone to failing as the Champions.  Checking condition of plug leads and caps might be a good idea, as well a thorough check of the carbs, especially the float heights.  Always close the petcocks when engine is shut down, if the float valves have the slightest issue, you risk a hydraulic lock, no fun.

piet
 
With the utmost sincerity someone really needs to compile all the witty quips on this forum...world class stuff.
 
And the saga continues... replaced the plugs with N2C as came out and Piet suggested. turned the ignition key green light on, kill switch in run position petcocks on reserve and no noise from the starter when I pushed the starter button, not even a click from the relais (I suppose it has one)

Tank and seat have been removed with utmost care. I did not start without the plugs. I did turn the rearwheel while in second gear to see the top of the pistons..... and its back in neutral before I tried to start.

Documentation is on its way to me but your suggestions are more then welcome,

John
 
A lot of starting problems can be traced back to a weak battery. DAMHIK.  :-X

If you get nothing when you press the starter button then maybe you should check voltage and condition of the battery. Hard to wriggle out of it's hidey hole, but possible when you undo the rear brake m/c (if it's the same as the RGS).
Is it a lead acid type?
If you feel the need to replace it I find AGM (Motobatt MB 51814) or gel (Odyssey PC680) batteries are much better as the CCA is much higher and the battery is physically smaller and lighter.

If you have new plugs in it and dried out combustion chambers then if the battery is up to scratch then SOMETHING should happen even if it won't start.

Where in the world are you and do you know anyone locally, or is there someone local to you on this forum, that might swing by and have a laugh sort you out?
 
Connected battery with cables to my car battery, no single noise from the starter..

It is the same situation as the kill switch in the off position. I changed gears again still nothing.

Some days ago the starter worked more then fine.

Could I have disconnected something while removing the tank/seat?

I am in the middle of nowhere, expat position, and bought the bike by phone, because I always liked them.

John
 
Wires in/out of fuse blocks can suffer. Check all connections are 100% (and not just the the PVC outer is being held in).
 
For these things to work, you need a spark at vaguely the right moment to ignite fuel fed by the carbs.
It is HUGELY simple!
Paul
 
JohnL said:
Connected battery with cables to my car battery, no single noise from the starter..

It is the same situation as the kill switch in the off position. I changed gears again still nothing.

Some days ago the starter worked more then fine.

Could I have disconnected something while removing the tank/seat?

I am in the middle of nowhere, expat position, and bought the bike by phone, because I always liked them.

John

So, is it a secret where you are?

Maybe the starter relay is u/s.
Are all the leads around battery, starter relay, starter motor making good contact?
Sometimes they corrode even though the connection is solid.

By connecting the car battery to your battery might not mean the power is getting through if the leads are crappy.
What voltage is your battery reading?
 
Around Samara

Startermotor works again, connector under tank while removing it.

On topic: it still doesn't start, will have a look tomorrow if I have a spark.

Thank you for your help all!
John

 
Samara  :o  That may not be the middle of nowhere, but I bet you can see it from there.

Grant is only 5,000 km away near Madrid. He doesn't mind doing epic long-distance rides on his RGS. He'll pop over and give you a hand.  :D
 
Dellortoman said:
Samara  :o  That may not be the middle of nowhere, but I bet you can see it from there.

Grant is only 5,000 km away near Madrid. He doesn't mind doing epic long-distance rides on his RGS. He'll pop over and give you a hand.  :D

I'm about 1600 km closer.  John, you can drop in on Saturday arvo (after I've finished the mowing ::) ) if you like... :D

piet
 
And a Laverda problem

I have followed Dellorto's description step by step:

I have a spark on the left plug (maybe would see the other ones as well)
Starter motor turns fast when attached to my car battery.
Tried different increments of shoke and after added 1 and 2 turns of throttle.

I have to mention that I have no air filters and sports exhausts.

The last week and a half I NEVER had one moment that fuel was ignited.

John
 
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