No spark diagnostics

redax5 said:
too much reliance on totally unnecessary relays where there is no need for them
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(bigthumb)  +1

Exactly the reason I suggested by-passing anything between the ignition switch and ignition system.

If the switch is correctly hooked up with the correct gauge wires, there should be no need for a relay in that circuit.  Especially now that an Ignitech system is fitted.  This draws far less current than the stock system.

That bike has more wires than all mine together!  If it were mine, I'd start from scratch and make a new loom...

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
(bigthumb)  +1

Exactly the reason I suggested by-passing anything between the ignition switch and ignition system.

If the switch is correctly hooked up with the correct gauge wires, there should be no need for a relay in that circuit.  Especially now that an Ignitech system is fitted.  This draws far less current than the stock system.

That bike has more wires than all mine together!  If it were mine, I'd start from scratch and make a new loom...

piet
Click to expand...

Eventually. Hopefully.
 
cbertozz: Are you really that stupid where you can't get spark or an attack on Laverda Forums.

You're going to kill yourself on a motorcycle.
 
Laverda SF said:
cbertozz: Are you really that stupid where you can't get spark or an attack on Laverda Forums.

You're going to kill yourself on a motorcycle.
Click to expand...

Happy new year!  Is it still Volvo weather?
 
cbertozz said:
I had the alternator cover off and couldn't see the red light when I cranked it over so maybe that means something.
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Are you sure? I don't think the red LEDs on the pickup board are visible without first removing the alternator rotor and stator (I may be wrong about that though, it's been a while since I looked in there).

Those little LEDs are a good diagnostic tool so it's definitely worth checking them.

It's a simple job to get in there and doesn't disturb ignition timing. Red will have supplied a puller to remove the alternator rotor. Remember that the big nut holding the rotor on has a left-hand thread. Remove the nut, attach the puller with the 3 bolts, tighten the centre bolt against the end of the crank and the rotor should pop off its taper easily. Don't lose the Woodruff key. Once the rotor is off, the stator winding is held on by 3 socket-head screws, but first remove the little wiring loom retainer at the bottom so you have enough slack in the wires to pull the stator winding off over the end of the crank.

It's safe to crank the engine with the alternator stator dangling from its wire loom. If you see the LEDs flashing when the engine is cranked, all is well and you can put it back together. If the LEDs remain dark, then you're almost there with a diagnosis.
 
Laverda SF said:
cbertozz: Are you really that stupid where you can't get spark or an attack on Laverda Forums.

You're going to kill yourself on a motorcycle.
Click to expand...

F'kin trolls... ::) ::)
 
Dellortoman said:
Are you sure? I don't think the red LEDs on the pickup board are visible without first removing the alternator rotor and stator (I may be wrong about that though, it's been a while since I looked in there).

Those little LEDs are a good diagnostic tool so it's definitely worth checking them.

It's a simple job to get in there and doesn't disturb ignition timing. Red will have supplied a puller to remove the alternator rotor. Remember that the big nut holding the rotor on has a left-hand thread. Remove the nut, attach the puller with the 3 bolts, tighten the centre bolt against the end of the crank and the rotor should pop off its taper easily. Don't lose the Woodruff key. Once the rotor is off, the stator winding is held on by 3 socket-head screws, but first remove the little wiring loom retainer at the bottom so you have enough slack in the wires to pull the stator winding off over the end of the crank.

It's safe to crank the engine with the alternator stator dangling from its wire loom. If you see the LEDs flashing when the engine is cranked, all is well and you can put it back together. If the LEDs remain dark, then you're almost there with a diagnosis.
Click to expand...

No I'm not sure.

I actually don't have the rotor puller but Red has very kindly offered to send me one (he already supplied one to the previous owner).

Have spent the afternoon trying to get my laptop to get the right drivers and connect to the Ignitech unit but no dice. It's an old laptop, I'm going to pick up a slightly better one from work tomorrow and try again.

 
I would strongly recommend nichten finger poken on the PC with the software for your Ignitech before a complete review of the basics and electrics on your bike.
Take it to a competent electrical technician first.
 
I am pretty low on the knowledge totem with this but there is a specific cable that connects to this Ignition and it doesn't connect to a lot of modern laptops without some adaptor and so I hear even then its not so good. I bought an old laptop off Cam that has this connection, but for me luckily Brett used his and stopped my not so clever involvement. I think this is correct but don't quote me.
 
Grant said:
I would strongly recommend nichten finger poken on the PC with the software for your Ignitech before a complete review of the basics and electrics on your bike.
Take it to a competent electrical technician first.
Click to expand...
On the contrary Grant, I'm looking forward to this.
 
Its easy to wipe the advance map on these if you don't know your shit as well, no names but it wasn't me.
 
Grant said:
I would strongly recommend nichten finger poken on the PC with the software for your Ignitech before a complete review of the basics and electrics on your bike.
Take it to a competent electrical technician first.
Click to expand...

+1

Basics need to be checked first, bike should at least run(cough and splutter at worst) with a fucked ignition curve.  Once it's running, you can always turn your attention to getting the ignition software right(if something turns out to be wrong).

piet
 
Vince said:
I am pretty low on the knowledge totem with this but there is a specific cable that connects to this Ignition and it doesn't connect to a lot of modern laptops without some adaptor and so I hear even then its not so good. I bought an old laptop off Cam that has this connection, but for me luckily Brett used his and stopped my not so clever involvement. I think this is correct but don't quote me.
Click to expand...

Need a serial port to hook up, most modern laptops/notebooks(what's the bloody difference?) don't have them any more.

piet
 
Finally got the drivers installed correctly, no errors but no joy with software and the Ignitech 'chiptest' doesn't detect a chip. Have checked there is power and the unit gets detected but that's the end of it.
 
Reading between the lines, I think Carlo is some kind of computer nerd, so mucking about with computers and software is probably right up his alley  :D

Carlo, inability to connect to the Ignitech unit is usually down to the serial-USB adaptor. Some are better than others. Also, the ignition doesn't take a power feed through the computer cable, so has to be powered up independently for it to work (ie. ignition switch on).

When you do get connected, download the program that's presently in the Ignitech and save it on your computer before you do anything else. That way you can always go back to original settings if you cock something up. To download, hit the "Read" button at the top of the screen, then go to the save icon in the usual way.
 
It took me a full day to get the drivers installed but got there in the end.

Now it's getting the u it talking to the PC software and if there's a way I will.

In the back of my mind is perhaps the ignitech unit has failed but need some time to troubleshoot. (Stuff like this can get fried anytime if the wiring isn't right or I do something stupid so absolutely no reflection on the unit).

 
It's always handy to have something else to ride when you own an old, probably modified, Italian bike. :D  Ignition box failures are rare, but do happen.  My Witt unit went funny for no reason (replaced under warranty, excellent service) right when I didn't need it to after showing no signs of distress previously. 
 
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