NOLOGY COILS

russo011

russo011

Senior member
Location
Austria
Hello Folks, reading through the forum I have been trying to work out if a set of Nology coils would suit the current ignition set up that came with my Laverda 1000 3CL (1976). The bike has been fitted with a MOTO WITT ignition system and has odd coils which I think have been sourced from a couple of different jap bikes.
Just wanted to know if I can just exchange the existing coils with Nology types:-
1 x PFC-30D - 3.0 Ohm, Dual Outlet type 152051350
1 x PFC-30S – 3.0 Ohm Single Outlet type 152051300
If so can I replace the spark plug leads & caps with silicone leads & new NGK caps - anybody have any experience?
 

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Russ,
Are the coils not working? I have the identical ignition in my 76 3CL since 1988.
Twin coil is a ND item, replaced 20+ years ago. Single coil is TEK.
Never had any issues.

Gerald
 
Last edited:
Gerald said:
Russ,
Are the coils not working? I have the identical ignition in my 76 3CL since 1988.
Twin coil is a ND item, replaced 20+ years ago. Single cool is TEK.
Never had any issues.

Gerald
Click to expand...
Hello Gerald, to be honest I have not had the bike out on a run of any distance, it starts up, ticks over fine and I have just rode it up and down the road some 500m or so. I bought the bike in Germany and have to have it registered in Austria before I can legally ride on the street. Finally I got a date and earliest the inspection can be carried out is the 15th of October. After then, as long as it passes, I can apply for a registration plate and insurance - usually that only takes a few days. Little bit frustrating as the bike is just sitting in my garage at the moment so all i can do is look and sit on it :)
 

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The Nology coils will work OK, but absolutely nothing to gain. Those ND coils are nigh to indestructable and will outlast you and me, and most of the others here.

If you really do need to replace the HT cables (those fitted to the ND coils are of equally top quality) use copper-cored wire ONLY, doesn't matter much what the sheathing is made of... For the DMC, the plug caps must have 5-10kΩ resistance.

The ND coils were not "from a couple of different jap bikes", but sourced new in bulk from a supplier of electrical components. A few Suzuki models just happen to use the very same components.

piet
(employed at Moto Witt at the time these systems were produced)
 
sfcpiet said:
The Nology coils will work OK, but absolutely nothing to gain. Those ND coils are nigh to indestructable and will outlast you and me, and most of the others here.

If you really do need to replace the HT cables (those fitted to the ND coils are of equally top quality) use copper-cored wire ONLY, doesn't matter much what the sheathing is made of... For the DMC, the plug caps must have 5-10kΩ resistance.

The ND coils were not "from a couple of different jap bikes", but sourced new in bulk from a supplier of electrical components. A few Suzuki models just happen to use the very same components.

piet
(employed at Moto Witt at the time these systems were produced)
Click to expand...
cheers Piet
 
russo011 said:
Hello Gerald, to be honest I have not had the bike out on a run of any distance, it starts up, ticks over fine and I have just rode it up and down the road some 500m or so. I bought the bike in Germany and have to have it registered in Austria before I can legally ride on the street. Finally I got a date and earliest the inspection can be carried out is the 15th of October. After then, as long as it passes, I can apply for a registration plate and insurance - usually that only takes a few days. Little bit frustrating as the bike is just sitting in my garage at the moment so all i can do is look and sit on it :)
Click to expand...
Nice clean looking bike Russ 👌🏼
 
I am rebuilding the electrics on my 81 Jota which has Nology coils and a DMC. The Nology had only seen approx 50km of use before the rebuild started for other reasons, the DMC goes back to the 1990‘s. When checking wire sizes I noticed that the Nology are 3ohm primary, actually measure 2,4ohm so should draw 4-5A each; 8-10A for the pair. I unterstand that the original coils are 5ohm and had a 0,9ohm ballast resistor in series (removed in the 1980’s when the DMC was first installed) so drew approx 2-2.4A each. The ignition and right hand handlebar switches use 2,8mm connectors, I believe the terminals are rated 11A. My concern is that as the power to coils and the DMC run through these and the handlebar switch is now 40 years old that I may now be pushing too much current for this switch and the terminals. I am assuming that the two coils will be drawing simultaneously, so taking 10A with the DMC possibly needing another 1A or thereabouts. Do I need to change out the Nology or should I power the coils from the battery via a relay rather than through these switches and terminals? If changing the coils any tips, it seems modern motorcycle coils are today usually 3ohm.
 
I run the Nology coils and the ignition unit from a relay connected to a fused 12V source. The kill switch, side stand interlock, and neutral switch are connected to switch that relay. IMO you should run a relay for your Nology coils.
 
I think your bigger issue will be that DMC specifies 3 ohm coils as a minimum. The PVL at 2.4 ohm (I think they are specified as 2.3) will overload the DMC and you risk it failing.
The ignition load is not continuous, and you are unlikely to overload the existing switchgear. A relay introduces another possible point of failure into what should be an ultra reliable circuit having the minimum possible number of connections.
 
Rob said:
I think your bigger issue will be that DMC specifies 3 ohm coils as a minimum. The PVL at 2.4 ohm (I think they are specified as 2.3) will overload the DMC and you risk it failing.
The ignition load is not continuous, and you are unlikely to overload the existing switchgear. A relay introduces another possible point of failure into what should be an ultra reliable circuit having the minimum possible number of connections.
Click to expand...
Hi Rob!

Do you know if there are any drawbacks to using PVL coils with Ignitech? I was told that the 3Ohms Nology coils were the same as the 2.4Ohms PVL coils, even same manufacturer.
In fact somewhere I read that PVL coils are made for 3 Ohms ignition systems, don't ask me why, I have no idea about electricity.

Miguel
 
I believe that relays are your friend - they're so simple and so universally used across the entire automotive industry that the chances of failure are a lot less that the chances of low voltage by running important current through switchgear and ignition switches causing issues. If a failure does occur, it's generally easy to bypass the relay/s (you simply connect the incoming 'signal' from switch and the outgoing to coil/s ... or headlight etc).
 
When reading Robs post where he mentions "PVL at 2.4 ohm" I was scratching my head to work out what PVL meant. Peak Voltage Level doesn't make sense, so WTF is he on about? Just as I begun to think dementia had set in (for either me or Rob), I read further down the thread and discovered it's a brand name for an ignition coil. You had me worried for a moment there Rob. I thought one of us had lost the plot. :)
 
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