OE Fork spring length 180 Series One 1200TS

S

Shuggie

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Location
Scottish islands
I'm checking out whether to replace my springs which look ok no splits. They are 450 mm long 23mm wide the spacer 70mm combined 520 mm.

Can anyone tell me the correct spring rate and length...

Cheers šŸ„‚
 
I'm listening Pat, what route would you take.

Maxton can do me a set of springs but I want to make sure I have the right springs now as they will supply new ones of this current length but of the right rate.

Not willing to spend Ā£960 on a variable rebound fork upgrade with them...their springs are around Ā£100
 
I know this doesnā€™t answer your question, but I have those forks and I used the Racetech website to select their springs and cartridge emulators with adapters. What an improvement! Not cheap but I think well worth the money.
 
Just changing the fork springs and making sure that the valve washer is in good condition is worthwhile if you don't want to spend time and money on an upgrade. If the bike has lots of miles the springs will have sagged quite a bit, and the bronze valve part can be very much worn away against the damper rod, I have replaced mine twice they are a breeze for any machinist to spin up. Before buying new springs do a simple sag check, there are lots of websites explaining how. From memory most owners have fitted 0.85kg/m springs, can be confirmed. Spring length of less concern when fitting spacer, I have Racetech springs and they stipulate how much preload to start with when cutting spacers to suit.
 
Thanks for the replies , I have something to go on nowšŸ˜Š I'll look into the Racetech emulators further, their springs are not much more than a Maxton spring. I don't do track days just want a good front end suspension for day rides out..
 
All I run on my Marzocchi forks is racetech springs which came with alu spacers ( which are constant rate not progressive).
The idea being they are easier to set up when working with emulators.
I run the racetech emulators and from memory I use 7.5w oil for my application.

The racetech info at the time of installation 2007 was pretty thorough.
 
I would try the standard set up first and see what you make of it, otherwise Rob and the rest of the lads know their stuff so take their advice. I have a picture of my 1200TS somewhere with the tank off and taken from behind the bike. The long forks and weedy headstock area just don't look right to me. I prefer the shorter Cerianis.
 
Jota Rob said:
All I run on my Marzocchi forks is racetech springs which came with alu spacers ( which are constant rate not progressive).
The idea being they are easier to set up when working with emulators.
I run the racetech emulators and from memory I use 7.5w oil for my application.

The racetech info at the time of installation 2007 was pretty thorough
Click to expand...

I'm thinking of going with their linear springs like yours and the emulators ...I know you ride yours to the full on the track šŸ™‚ and if it does you well, it will amply do me..I'll get in touch with Racetech on Monday to be sure of getting the right parts...

Many thanks šŸ‘
 
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I found emulators fantastic for road riding. Previously riding around bumpy corners was like sailing a dinghy with the centre board up, now it tracks beautifully, exactly where I point it. Also my wrists and elbows are a lot more relaxed which makes longer rides much more enjoyable.
I used Sportsvalves since they are local for me, but being able to adjust them in-situ is a great feature.
 
Andy said:
I found emulators fantastic for road riding. Previously riding around bumpy corners was like sailing a dinghy with the centre board up, now it tracks beautifully, exactly where I point it. Also my wrists and elbows are a lot more relaxed which makes longer rides much more enjoyable.
I used Sportsvalves since they are local for me, but being able to adjust them in-situ is a great feature.
Click to expand...
Thatā€™s why so many Emulator installations are left ā€œclose enoughā€: itā€™s such a messy complicated job to get them perfect. Once they are pretty good, you know that you could tweak them a bit more, but donā€™t because it is too much trouble just to get that last tiny bit of improvementā€¦ā€¦ Gaining access, taking the caps off and pulling the springs and Emulators out more than two or three times is just a huge PITA.
 
Yep, my go-to tool was a length of coat hanger wire with a 5mm square hook to snag the emulator, but it's a lottery. Sometimes it's 1 and done, and sometimes you're fishing for 20 minutes. Plus, you lose fork oil that sticks to the springs. But the biggy was always the possibility of cross-threading the fork cap while compressing the spring. It gets not fun fast.
 
Emulator extraction tip...
Telescopic magnet thingie of good strength, put a penny washer on the end (OD just lesser diameter than the fork intrenal ID). The washer won't stick to the fork interior to any great extent. Grab and go.
Easier than a Louvre jewellery heist.
 
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