Oil circulating?

E

eabergman

Full member
Is there a clever (or at least effective) way to determine if oil is circulating adequately at the first startup of a 750 after a rebuild? I'm just about there on the rebuild of my '71 750SF after holing a piston. I know these engines run with low oil pressure so I'm not expecting to see geysers of oil anywhere.
Eric
 
If you're really concerned, you can remove one of the cam end covers and confirm that oil is coming out the hole in the end of a rocker spindle. Block one with a 6mm bolt. From memory it flows even on the starter. I've rarely worried about it - if the oil pump is in place and there's oil in the motor then it will flow.

More concerning is that the middle four head studs can potentially block the oil getting into the slot either side of the camchain tunnel, which is the route for oil to the spindles and cams/rockers. If the holes in the top cam cover are not spaced correctly they can draw the suds in and block the path. 'Insurance' fixes have been discussed before - very simple.
 
Righthandside-Cover remove, spark-plug remove , exhaust tappet cover remove ( or righthandside cam-cover ).
No Ingnition on!
Use a Drill-Machine with a 24Nut and let it turn the engine, same way as a Starter would do.
Is there a 10mm OilPump?

Good Luck
 
As Marty writes. Make sure that rockers and cams are well oiled and start it up with a valve cover off.
I might well take a few 10s of seconds for oil to get up there after a rebuild.

Paul
 
martymoose said:
I fired it up with the exhaust tappet covers off. Oil squirts out in big gobs all over the exhaust pipes fairly quickly
Click to expand...
That's why I remove the inlet covers. ;)

Once the lube reaches the rockers, all is well. I usually just crank it for a few seconds with the plugs out, with cams and rockers generously lubed beforehand. If the pump is primed by filling the pump intake channel before fitting the filter plate, the process takes around 20-25 seconds, so no great strain on either battery or starter.

piet
 
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