Oil filter kit or similar

  • Thread starter Thread starter Erivaj
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I like that set up Rusty, you dont fancy marketing a kit do you? Tongue in cheek suggestion but if there was a kit I would buy one if the price was right, regards Pat.
 
for he who doesn't want to go the way of adding an external oil filter, does indeed change oil frecuently but would like the extra help from a magnetic plug:
where and what specs plug to get?  does anybody know?
(fitted a magnetic plug to my guzzi but thread is not exactly the same and it leaks, annoying...)

thanks,
Mario
 
Hi Mario,

The drain plug thread is M14 x 1,5mm.

You can get magnetic ones in all sorts of places. Vauxhall/Opel for example used that size. Some Honda and Yamaha also. Just Google/Ebay the size.

Those in the UK can just go to Halfords - and pick up exactly the one you will find frequently up on UK ebay going for twice the price.

P
 
Oh, forgot to add - I make my own magnetic plugs - I steal a some magnets from an old toy belonging to my son, drill a hole in the drain plug and araldite a stack of 3 magnets in. These magnets are chosen as they are quite strong. The toy is one of these type things...
magnetix-70ct-clear-bright-rods.jpg


I also placed a whole load of these magnets in a stainless steel tube, inside my oil pickup.
jota%20oil%20strainer%20magnet%20small.JPG

(but with better wiring-on, the photo was just of a trial).

Paul.

 
thanks Paul, will probably get one for each of my bikes....

although it worries me that the magnetic field created by a magnetic plug and the associated electricity generated by its interaction with fast moving metal particles carried by the oil flow, would have such an adverse effect on the viscocity, detergent and other fundamental oil proprierties, that all advantages brought by the magnetic plug catching metal flakes in its field might not compensate the loss of many of the very much needed proprierties that oil should have and might not anymore once exposed to such field.

(just kidding!)
 
Hey Mario, with all these magnets and metal flying around maybe we should stick a commutator on the end of our cranks and then we have free backup sparkatricity power for our weak generators!
 
3patC said:
I like that set up Rusty, you dont fancy marketing a kit do you? Tongue in cheek suggestion but if there was a kit I would buy one if the price was right, regards Pat.

I would be glad to help if you needed guidance, but I could not collect the time to build a kit. I looked on Britain Ebay and the Magnefine filters would all come out of the USA. I don't think they are distributed internationally. The shipping cost would be more than the cost of a filter,most postage over 20 pounds. The filters cost about 9-10 pounds.

If several forum members wanted to do a group buy, I would contact the Magnefine company and arrange a purchase. Shipping costs would be diluted. No fee to me, just use a CC with the company direct. I will handle the transaction communications. Remember me in your prayers at night.

Regarding using magnets alone. I have a magnetic drain plug installed since 2005. It did not help the high iron in the Blackstone laboratory analysis, that I could tell. The drain plug always had some slight debris on it. Not much.

Having a powerful magnet in the constantly recirculating flow, with a filtering media too, makes for very effective filtering. The filter media collects the ferrous material not captured by the magnet and the non ferrous materials like aluminum, brass and clutch material. Remember your crank slingers? What goes into your filter is not compacted into the slingers.

images


This is a picture off the web showing how it is made. The filter was cut open. It can be unscrewed without as much hard work.  

Filter_with_text.gif
 
Rusty Spokes said:
No, when I built the engine back up in 2005, I fitted a 10mm pump. That seems like a good idea with or without an oil filter.

Hi,

Please, give me details about this improvement?

Where do you get it? ...  how much? how do you install it?

;)
 
Erivaj said:
Rusty Spokes said:
No, when I built the engine back up in 2005, I fitted a 10mm pump. That seems like a good idea with or without an oil filter.

Hi,

Please, give me details about this improvement?

Where do you get it? ...  how much? how do you install it?

;)

The 10mm pump is available from Wolfgang, where I got mine. I'm sure it would be available closer to home for you, perhaps someone can suggest a supplier in Europe. I don't recall the cost. I don't think Wolfgang was too expensive.

The oil pump lives behind a gear, behind the L.H. crankshaft drive sprocket. Requires disassemble of the primary side clutch, chain and sprockets.
There is a oil pump drive sprocket on the crankshaft with a locating pin in the crank. I would remove it too, being careful not to lose the pin. The gear should be a slip fit on the crank and little force is required to remove it.

Then remove the "c" clip on the oil pump/sprocket and remove the sprocket. Be careful with the shims and another locating pin on the pump. Don't lose them and keep them in order.

The oil pump is held in with four screws, remove them and withdraw the pump.

Take you new 10mm pump and install. The fiddly part is once you have tightened the new pump in (cross tighten the screws) is check and make sure the new pump is not binding or tight in operation. To test it..just reinstall the drive gear with the pin and without the "c" clip. Spin it with your fingers..it should be smooth with very slight resistance. If it is rough or tight..loosen the screws and re tighten the pump again. You do not want the pump drive to load the gear and locating pin in operation. If it does load the pin and gear when running..the pin could shear off and no oil pressure...very bad.

I use a very thin coat of Loctite 574 on the pump to crankcase. Probably not needed as the factory use no sealer at all. I use Loctite blue on the screws too. New hardware is nice for the four screws holding the pump body as well.

Reassemble is reverse once the pump is in and secure. Get a Green Book to help if you have not done this in the past. Good time to fit one of Andy's Merc duplex primary chains too.

Laverda%20engine.jpg


It could wait till you have a good reason to have the engine out and on the bench, or can be done in an afternoon on the workshop floor.

I think the 10mm pump would be wise with an inline filter. Its a good upgrade even if you don't use one. Laverda thought so as the later machines had them from the begining. Perhaps someone knows when they started fitting them in production?
 
manino said:
Hi Rusty,

If you can make them at a reasonable price, I would buy 4.

Mario

The trick would be finding a bunch of Ford coil brackets. The filter is 2.2 inches or right at 56mm in diameter. The bracket needs about two inches of "offset" to fit behind the cooler. The Ford Mustang bracket was ideal, being made back when the metal strapping used when bending the part was heavy and would last longer than the fenders on most cars. It was a perfect fit for the Laverda filter mount. Ford was cheap and used one holding bolt for the coil bracket when it was attached to the firewall and only one "ear" on the bracket. Most European cars used two "ears" and two screws.

If the right bracket cannot be sourced out of a salvage yard..then someone would have to make some. Not hard to do, if you have access to some metal fabrication machinery.

The oil hoses could be had locally or made up.

Anyone over on the other side of the pond know of a suitable automotive coil bracket?

Perhaps there is a similar coil bracket for an old Triumph or English Ford that would work?
 
BTW if you want magnets that suck better than Paris Hilton, grab an old hard drive, pull it apart and the magnets around the back of the reading head are about the strongest magnets you will ever find. Don't beleive me? try and get them off the fridge!! Will see if they fit in the filter next time I have PH over.... (then I woke up...). :-[

But seriously they are extremely strong magnets.
 
Rusty Spokes said:
Ford was cheap and used one holding bolt for the coil bracket when it was attached to the firewall and only one "ear" on the bracket. Most European cars used two "ears" and two screws.
If the right bracket cannot be sourced out of a salvage yard..then someone would have to make some.

It's been done. If you Google "Ford coil bracket" you should find a local supplier. Here's a coupla pictures of ones in the US. The shiny one is even stainless.

Ken
 

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I contacted Greg at Magnefine to ask this question, his reply follows the question.
I'd be interested to know how this translates into the oil system pressure on Laverda..
Incidentally, I did see also that they were available to the UK from Ebay US but with better pricing if you look harder., I saw postage as low as ?7 or ?8.

Not condoning or knocking it, merely curious as to suitability, I also like the set up Piet uses, which I trust, because I see how his bike gets ridden.


Hi
Your 3/8 Transmission filter is currently being discussed on a "Italian Motorcyle" forum as one of the US guys is running one successfully on his motor.
We're quite a technical bunch as we have to be to run these large 30 year old Laverdas.
Can you please tell me what pressure these filters are deigned to run as low as? I see they have a bypass safety valve and appear a fantasic device, what pressure is required to enable the bypass circuit.
Do you have any other comments as to why/why not this product would be suitable to filter out debris from a motorcycle engine and transmission ?  The current user swears by them.
Inicdentally these bike engines have only a centrifugal sediment trap and a screen as standard ..

Thank you for your help.

Rob Lawton..(UK)


Rob,

We have many users using the Magnefine on motorcycle applications.

There is no reason you could not use it in yours.

The filter bypasses at about 8 lbs of differential pressure.

The filter can run at low pressure.

If you have any other questions, I can forward them to our engineer.

I have noticed a spike in my European orders lately, so this must be the reason.

Thanks for the interest!

Cheers,
Greg

 
If I were going down the filter route I would favour ditching the exisitng oil cooler and replacing it with a filter that also had cooling ability. Along the lines of this http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Ducati/Santa_Monica/87-88/picture/Oil_Filter_KS_Performance_-_Washable_Lifetime/ (not that exact one, it does not present enough cooling surface area, but you get the idea).   P.
 
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