oil filter removal 1200TS

[crm]

can anyone offer tips on removal of the oil filter retaining cover, obviously the nuts and spring washers are removed, the cover seems to have an integrated "cast washer" surface at the studs (which i tried to remove !) but no amount of gently warming and soft tapping is encouraging it to move. Before applying more brutish tools / methods I figured it would be safer to ask first.
Andy

 

[redax5]

with age the 3 x holes in the alloy cover can close in and thus make it difficult to remove the cover
rest assured there is nothing else holding it in place, you will have to "work" it off

once you do remove it drill the 3 holes out to 6.5mm again and further issues will be alleviated

good luck

 

[Rob]

The cast washer is part of the filter plate and cannot / should not be removed. Well aimed blows from a soft faced hammer or nylon mallet will avoid the need for resorting to levering off and damage to joint face.

 

[sfcpiet]

If all fails, you could take the engine out, disassemble it and knock the filter out from the inside... only takes a couple of weekends.

On a more serious note, if the filter plate is so seriously crushed that it jams on the studs, do check the studs themselves for stretching, nothing worse than snapping off a stud when you can least afford it.  I've found quite few stretched M6 and M8 studs, mainly twin and triple oil filter plates, twin tappet covers, twin cylinder studs(M10!) and twin and triple crankcase studs.  There's people out there that have never heard of torque wrenches!

piet

 

[crm]

Thanks, i will continue with the heat and gentle persuasion. If it still refuses to budge and I am not quite ready for the engine out method, can i simply unscrew one of the studs, I imagine they are loctited, am i more likely to break the stud off if i try to unwind it with back to back nuts.

 

[Rob]

Wouldn't be loctited as standard.  By all means give it a go, but are the studs long enough for double nuts?  Risk is stripping that end of the thread.  Plenty of heat will see aluminium crankcase expand more than the steel stud and will help - especially if you try 'heat sinking' the stud with a nut & chilled socket to increase the temp & expansion differential

Repeated 'edge on' blows around the filter plate will usually work the thing free - I assume you've removed all the exhaust downpipes to get clear access?

 

[drikko]

Mine is a bit tricky to get off too. Have to jiggle it around considerably. Only take the left header off though on mine.

 

[crm]

after several heat / tap cycles it began to bleed, and gave up soon after..
As noted here, the bolt holes where measurably narrower on the inner side of the cover plate. Bored them out to 6,5