Oil for Crankshaft Bearings

Must be plenty of mist in there, as the SF in question had had no feed to the needle roller for its entire life other than what it could scrounge from the main. I guess the needle is under no singificant load once the motor is running ... it's just freewheeling!
 
Dellortoman said:
I've been known to weld nuts onto the frame for the really inaccessible or frequently removed ones.
Click to expand...

I have a NutSert tool for that. It's quite handy. It is not the commonly available riveter, it swags the nut in place, very secure.
In fact the first time I used it was to repair the sidecover tabs on my Laverda!

This shows SAE but mine are metric. http://avdelusallc.com/products/nutsert.shtml
 
Thanks Hunter. That's neat. Very handy for anyone who doesn't have a welder or if you don't want to burn the paint off your frame.

I see that for an M6 insert, you have to drill the hole out to 9.5mm, so it may not be suitable in some applications where there's not a lot of metal around the hole.
 
I have an eclipse with 4 different size heads, cost 20 quid on ebay. Handy for all sorts of things. I don't recommend using stainless nutserts/rivnuts unless you have arms like a gorilla. I have a packet of them that will probably live in the drawer for a long time. I just use steel or aluminium now.

Neil
 
Clinch nuts are also very useful...  (stop sniggering ChrisK!!)
The required hole is a bit smaller than a nutsert and in my experience they install more easily.
I've used them mostly in sheet aluminium, where they work superbly.  Not sure how well they work in steel.

F0827675-01.jpg
 
Hunter said:
What were we talking about?
Oh yeah! I always oil my crank when clinching nuts. Back on topic!!
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Just before we go back to oil stuff ............ how the hell could you use a clinch nut through the frame tube? For example: I used two M8 nut-serts on my 750 frame to mount the SFC style seat base. Doubt I could use a clinch nut for that application. May be OK, on a flat, but not in a tube.

No matter how much oil the crankshaft bearings were getting.
 
chrisk said:
Just before we go back to oil stuff ............ how the hell could you use a clinch nut through the frame tube? For example: I used two M8 nut-serts on my 750 frame to mount the SFC style seat base. Doubt I could use a clinch nut for that application. May be OK, on a flat, but not in a tube.

No matter how much oil the crankshaft bearings were getting.
Click to expand...

You are correct, they are (regardless of windage to the crank bearing) for a mostly flat surface.
 
chrisk said:
Just before we go back to oil stuff ............ how the hell could you use a clinch nut through the frame tube? For example: I used two M8 nut-serts on my 750 frame to mount the SFC style seat base. Doubt I could use a clinch nut for that application. May be OK, on a flat, but not in a tube.

No matter how much oil the crankshaft bearings were getting.
Click to expand...

I was assuming a frame tab/bracket, I wouldn't use nutserts on a non flat surface either.
I would have thought the only proper way to do that is to weld a threaded bung onto/into the tube.
eg:
spondon_P002194.jpg


Apologies for the ongoing thread hijack hochkoenig! :)

 
Batto, I should have said: A flat surface welded to the frame tube with nutsert fitted through the flat and tube together.

In his pic you can see it, bottom hole, just in front of the battery strap. Also, there is an M5 Nutset mouted backards, which goes through the hole of the battery strap and locates the strap by a countersunk washer and screw:
880SFCK%20going%20back%20together%20more%20002_zps60luiwyx.jpg


880SFCK%20frame%20in%20primer%20001_zpss23jrjfz.jpg

 
chrisk said:
Batto, I should have said: A flat surface welded to the frame tube with nutsert fitted through the flat and tube together.
Click to expand...

Ok, the front face is flat but the back is not, so the way it deforms is not really as intended. You'd also need a really long grip length due the the curvature of the tube.  Anyhow, it's working for you so more power to ya. :)

NSCELFZM4.JPG


Back to crank bearing oiling, or lack thereof...
 
Unfortunately, many people don't understand the "light load" bit in regard to nutserts.  I've had to replace quite a few with crossed/pulled threads fitted in jap Al-alloy frames.  Can be found on Cro-Mo round-tube MZ1000 frames too, works well enough.

piet
 
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