Oil Pump

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Hi!

I started with a common problem which I could find some old topics in the forum regarding the oil pump. Basically when assembling the shaft it doesn't rotate freely, I can rotate it with the hand, but is not smooth. I have checked everything, the shaft is spinning smooth in the engine case, also in the oil pump body separately, the teeth wheels are also moving freely, but when I assembly everything initially the shaft finds a step and won't come in, but when putting it with loose screws it goes in but as soon as I try to tight 2 of them it goes hard again, I have tried to tap it to find the sweet spot and all that that I read in the forum. (I started the bike with this pump, and it was running, so maybe is not sooo bad)

Anyway, after I analyzed the thing closely, I started to see some modifications in the pump, like a bit limed in the side to make it fit in the engine case, a handmade key... and looking carefully, the screw holes in the pump body don't fit PERFECTLY with the engine threads, so I have the theory that the pump was changed and that this one is not the original one but an adapted one... What do you think? does it corresponds to an SF3 oil pump? when installing it, it also doesn't fit to the shape in the engine!

If that is the case, I will continue the thread asking about where to find the original one or an aftermarket that will fit perfectly! :LOL: If I don't find any, a possible solutions would be to make the oil pump body screw holes a bit wider, to give the pump enough play to be adjusted so the shaft is not dragging that much...

Regards,
Miguel

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Yes, that can be annoying work until everything fits. I was often nerved until I came up with the following trick:

Get an old oil pump gear and remove the gear (drill out rivets).
Also remove the drive pin, that drives the oil pump gear. Make sure that there are no burrs / sharp edges or rust on the shaft.

When assembling the parts, you insert the (oiled) axis through the cover and gear wheel into the housing bore and thus align the parts with one another.

Check that the axle rotates easily, then tighten all screws 1/2.
Take a small plastic hammer and tap the end of the axle on all four sides.

Check that the axle rotates easily, then tighten all screws finally.
Take a small plastic hammer and tap the end of the axle again on all four sides.

Check if the shaft runs smoothly. Secure the screws (with Loctite or by using a punch to hit the oil pump cover near the screw slot).

Remove the shaft-tool and install the correct oil pump gear including the drive pin and the large spacer washer. Please also make the axis free of burrs or rust and oil it well beforehand.

The gear should now run smoothly.


Thomas from LAU wishes you good luck with the installation
 
Hi Thomas!

Thank you very much! I was now working on it as I couldn't go sleep with that in mind. Unfortunately I haven't an old oil pump shaft, but I have used a similar method, putting in and out the original shaft while adjusting screws, taping and checking that the shaft still goes in and out and spins freely, eventually I managed! Now is running perfectly. All of that to finally see the two pump gears on my work bench.... :o ::) :-[ >:( :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

But anyway, now I got the trick. I also did polish the shaft and the bushings to be sure that they were free of marks. After I read several threads on that topic, I am considering to order/install the sfc? high volume pump. Do they fit without further modifications? if the body of the pump is thicker, will not the sprocket have different position? i also see that in my oil pump, there is a little hole pointing towards the drive chain, that gets the oil that comes down the stud, but those after market don't have that! Can they simply be installed?

Regards,
Miguel
 
Hello Miguel,

you can use the stronger / thicker oil pump without changes. It makes sense if you make many km/miles or you drive your Laverda sportiv or on the racetrack.

The hole you discovered is absolutely unnecessary, because the primary-chain runs in an oil bath anyway.

You can work the hole with a center punch so that it is tight. This gives you a slightly higher oil pressure and gets more oil to the cylinder head faster.

Best Thomas aus LAU
 
I am considering to order/install the sfc? high volume pump. Do they fit without further modifications?
Click to expand...

Concerning 10mm aftermarket oil pumps on both 750s and triples,
they often turn very hard even after centering. I found that the gears
then need a little skimming on a flat surface.
Best done on a glass plate as shown in the picture below.

Ernesto
 

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I second all the above. In addition I noticed on my 3c, that the bores in the (aftermarket) oilpump were not exactly aligned with those in the engine
housing. The bores in the new oil pump req'd some rework. Also the oilpump housing was higher and req'd some trimming.
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just kill the motor if you are stationary in traffic for more than a couple of minutes, all will be fine, modern cars do that all by themselves anyway.
CLEM
 
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