Oil seal

Twosheds

Twosheds

Junior member
Location
Surrey. England
Quick question. '76 Jota. Do I need to drain the oil in order to change the crankshaft oil seal in the back alternator housing? I don't thik I do but I thought I'd ask, just to be on the safe side.
Also..... I've got the rotor puller and I know about the left hand threads but are there any other nuggets that I need to know before I find myself in trouble?
 
No need to drain the oil, doesn't reach up that far.

Probably easier/better to remove the housing as well.  The ball bearing imediately behind the seal is quite often past its best and the housing is quite sharp-edged at the seal bore.  To avoid damaging the seal before its even seen any oil, it's advisable to chamfer the edge, sturdy pocketknife does the trick nicely.  Fiddly to do with the housing mounted, easy on the workbench :D

Also check the sealing nut for damage from inadequate tightening.  End is often worn, as is the surface of the sprag clutch on which the bearing race bears.  Salvagable with a bit of minor machining, a spacer shim and a new nut.

piet
 
Ignition trigger collar on mine had the locating / holding grub screw staked so much I had to drill it out.  Mine will need cleaning and re-tapping for the next size up.
 
If the sealing nut Piet mentions isn't tight, don't be surprised, very few people will have the tool needed to torque it correctly. It's an extra-deep thinwall 36mm impact socket (or a homemade one made from 2 sockets and a piece of stanchion tube, if you have the wherewithal). They're hard to find, don't know what you'll be able to locate in the Old Dart but Wolfgang recommends Gray Pneumatic part number 2036XMD (lots of Internet sources), and possibly Sunex 236MXD (also can be sourced on Internet).
Don't forget you'll need a left-handed socket. I mark my left-handed sockets with a dab of striped paint so I don't mix them up with the similar-looking right handed ones in the toolbox.

:D :D

Ken
 
Well said Ken, that is real world advice! Clems son David cut and welded an extra long socket for me, but even then the end needs to be milled flat to get purchase. A box spanner, get on eBay, works as well and a lot cheaper.
 
Here's my effort, made many years ago and has survived many a rattlegun attack, despite the ugly welds. :D

piet
 

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You reckon your welds are ugly Piet?

My special tool No. 2036XMD is made from a piece of galvanised water pipe. I would ideally have bought a 36mm socket and extended it, but I needed it on a Sunday when the socket shops were closed.
 

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mcnicol said:
If the sealing nut Piet mentions isn't tight, don't be surprised, very few people will have the tool needed to torque it correctly. It's an extra-deep thinwall 36mm impact socket (or a homemade one made from 2 sockets and a piece of stanchion tube, if you have the wherewithal). They're hard to find, don't know what you'll be able to locate in the Old Dart but Wolfgang recommends Gray Pneumatic part number 2036XMD (lots of Internet sources), and possibly Sunex 236MXD (also can be sourced on Internet).
Don't forget you'll need a left-handed socket. I mark my left-handed sockets with a dab of striped paint so I don't mix them up with the similar-looking right handed ones in the toolbox.

:D :D

Ken
Click to expand...

So do I tell the tool guy I need the left handed socket with a metric Crescent wrench?
 
I asked the tool guy for a left handed socket and he wants know if that's my left  or his left. Anyway he sold me a set of metric fine thread  sockets. He said they'd probably be cheaper, depending on which way I was facing when he wrote out the bill. Will they be ok?
BTW..... how many torks does that nut need?
 
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