One for the electrical gurus

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harpmeister

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UK
I need to rewire the left and right switches on my SF2 but unsure what amperage of wire to use ( 16.5, 21, 25 ) they are the usual Suzuki ones from the GT's.

There is no original wire that I can use for comparison so can anyone throw any light on which to use.

Please keep any answers simple (KISS) as my brain has trouble processing complex instructions.

Thanks for your understanding.
 
I think that wire comes in cross section rating, mm2. As for amps, if you run all the current through the switches as per standard, 16 amp would be adequate. I and many others have the switches just operating relays to send current to the headlight, same for the ignition switch, so the wire only needs to carry the milliamps that go through the switches. I have a relay each for high and low beam, and one for the keyed ignition switch. Very easy to set up, best shown on a diagram if you like. I hope that is simple.
 
Pretty sure the originals were 0.75mm². Good idea to fit relays into the horn, low and high-beam circuits. New wiring would be able to handle it all without relays, but the switch contacts are simply too small and prone to high resistance.

piet
 
+1 to Piet.

0.5 or 0.75mm2 multi stranded automotive or boat wire does the trick nicely.
f you can find it, the wire strands should be tinned, so tinned, fine stranded wire.
The more strands the better to stand up to flexing and vibration which is why you should only use automotive or boat wire.

I would not use 0.5mm2 unless using relays just to be on the safe side.
 
recently, a guy in Germany sold NOS parts relatively affordable. He has different switch-grips in stock for different Suzuki-models (even had the one with two throttle cable, which I will use on the 1000 SFC for the Keihin carbs):

| eBay

eBay hat eine riesige Auswahl an tollen Angeboten für . Bei eBay einkaufen!
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maybe easier than changing the cables and running still with old contacts. Not 100% sure the connectors are the same though, please check... but that is the easiest to change if not
 
22-24AWG is usual for moderate currents and reduced voltage drop across the cable route length, though in Laverda case the fatigue fracture is dominant, and increased cross sectional area, over what the actual load current requires, is optimal. After market "Automotive" grade wire does not always conform to usual wire specifications, then there is the matter of conductor material and grade... cross sectional specification can be misleading in non industry standard descriptions. Insulation grade another factor, though most probable will outlast the installer of aged years. What can be crimp terminated would be the upper limit, ie larger cross sectional area that can be inserted into the crimping tunnel on pins or sockets. Not sure if that helps, or hinders. j
 
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