Out and About on your Laverda.No bull,Just photos

sfcpiet said:
Designers often forget about practicality, far too often function follows form in their view. What looks great on the sketch sheet is often totally useless on the street.
Click to expand...
Yes, the Triumph Hurricane comes to mind. Stupid looking thing in my opinion. But I never was a fan of any of Craig Vetter's designs. He made some very ugly fairings.

I dunno if it was someone on this forum or somewhere else on the interweb. But I recall someone posting a story about meeting up with Craig Vetter. The poster was a fan of Vetter's work and happened to be travelling through Vetter's neighborhood in USA, so decided to make contact and see if they could meet up for lunch. To his surprise, Vetter agreed. As it turned out, the guy couldn't get out of there fast enough. The impression he got of Vetter was that he was a complete fruit loop, obsessed with God. Seems the old adage "never meet your idols" is one that shouldn't be ignored.
 
I had a few similar experiences. Did some work for Matiches the importer of a bunch of bike bits in Oz and met one of their riders who won a 6hrs, Kiwi called Richard I cannot even remember his name now. I was star-struck and surprised. Nice enough bloke but he didn't walk on water. I met a few race stars over the years I learned hero is a strong word.
 
78jotadave said:
"What leave it stock", it looks great Q, well done mate!
Click to expand...
Cheers, Dave. Weak sun shining here for the first time since my last outing. Club meeting tonight so i'll fire up the beast again and cross town. One problem with washing and polishing is that you resist the temptation to ride in shite weather. once it's dirty I don't give a rat's and will ride in anything.

I had to pull the primary and gearbox covers to try and seal brand new gaskets ... those green aftermarket things are not up to scratch - slight amount of oil escaping from both sides of the motor. I've reused the original grey or grey/orange gaskets many times without sealant and have never had a leak.

I also tweaked my selector adjustment - still getting that issue occasionally with it not resetting the pins so 2nd to 3rd is actually 2nd ... to 2nd. Annoying.

And I've removed a plug I had in my second oil pump body to reduce the oil pressure a little. I'm running two 6mm SF oil pumps side-by-side, so I have two holes feeding the primary and clutch (the pic shows the feed hole). I had blocked the outer hole but i think the 12mm pump might be creating too much pressure - I still have ever so slight oil escaping from the barrel-sleeve interface (big bore machining exposed the sleeves to open air).

double oil pump#1.JPG
 
I reckon it would be difficult to develop too much oil pressure in a roller and ball bearing engine. Assuming you don't have any significant flow restrictions, the bigger pump will be giving you more flow at marginally increased pressure.
 
I seem to recall that Lavparadies advised blocking the hole to feed the tacho drive if fitting their bigger oil pump as some motors got an oil leak there. A good sign as it means that the top end gets plenty more oil.
 
Dellortoman said:
I reckon it would be difficult to develop too much oil pressure in a roller and ball bearing engine. Assuming you don't have any significant flow restrictions, the bigger pump will be giving you more flow at marginally increased pressure.
Click to expand...
And more leaks.
Any oil passage creates a restriction to flow and will create pressure.
Paul
 
Dellortoman said:
I reckon it would be difficult to develop too much oil pressure in a roller and ball bearing engine. Assuming you don't have any significant flow restrictions, the bigger pump will be giving you more flow at marginally increased pressure.
Click to expand...
Maybe not excessive pressure Cam, but increased flow can cause flooding, especially in the quite cramped 750 cam/rockerbox. The return paths are too restricted to cope with any more than the larger SFC pump delivers.

piet
 
Fortunately I haven't had any noticeable flooding issues from the cam box, having a 12mm oil pump - especially after Piet detailed flooding in a 16mm(!!!) custom oil pump SFC.

My reasoning is that I'm getting leaks from the barrel-sleeve interface (where the big bore work for the larger sleeves have broken through the barrel walls). Even after fitting sleeves to the sleeve-barrel interface at the stepped sleeve top to prevent oil under pressure entering there I still have a couple of very slight weeps in evidence - the first rendition of the SFQ saw oil pissing out of both left and right sides and ending up all over the rear of the bike - and my lower legscover ! I first noticed it on the way to get the bike roadworthied. A major clean up with paper towels at a servo near the testing place was in order!

Opening the second hole from the oil pump to the primary/clutch is just a token attempt to see if it makes any diff. I rode to the Lav Club meeting last night and on return discovered that the primary green gasket is still fukn leaking, even after using Three-Bond on the mating surfaces and leaving it for 24 hours before filling with oil. Not a big leak, but to say I'm pissed off is an understatement. I'm going to have to liv e with it until the next oil change - then i'll resort to silicone ... which I HATE using in motors.

The bike is flying - I have to be very careful on the rear tyre (a Dunlop Sportmax Q3 160/60) in the cold weather. Taking off from a set of lights with a little exuberance saw the rear light up big time and take a step sideways (slight sloping camber). It just hits the big torque at around 4k and goes whammo! Not to mention a second kick at 5500 ... a beast. Cold weather seems to supercharge our aircooled steeds as well.
 
Have you tried Loctite 518 red gasket compound? It's flexible like silicone and can fill gaps up to 0.25mm. But it's better than silicone because it's anaerobic (only sets in the absence of air) and is oil soluble in its liquid form. Any excess on the outside can be wiped off, and any that finds its way inside the engine will be washed away by the oil (won't block oil passages).
 
Dellortoman said:
Have you tried Loctite 518 red gasket compound? It's flexible like silicone and can fill gaps up to 0.25mm. But it's better than silicone because it's anaerobic (only sets in the absence of air) and is oil soluble in its liquid form. Any excess on the outside can be wiped off, and any that finds its way inside the engine will be washed away by the oil (won't block oil passages).
Click to expand...
I think of got the exact same stuff in my 'adhesives' drawer, Cam. Akas Gasket Eliminator? In fact I had it in my hands and was intending on using it when I opted for the Three bond (which is excellent crankcase sealant). The Loctite will be my next attempt.
 
Some of the green gaskets now supplied are as hard as metal from new, unlike the original grey ones from the factory. I have checked engine covers on a glass plate and can find no warpage, despite them dripping oil with new gaskets. The only way I have got them to seal is with a minimal smear of silicone (I will try to get some of the Loctite but it isn't readily available here) and letting it cure over night before filling with oil. Using silicone and then filling with oil had it still leak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top