Oxxidation on engine case.

I bought a Vapor Blasting cabinet and have started with the little pieces. I need a larger air compressor to get the CFM's steady since now it does OK, but nothing like what I watched while at Barbers. Looking at what the end product came out I was sold, so now the hard work of figuring out which media is best. But as mentioned in other threads the metal still needs to be treated to prevent the corrosion, ACF50 is what we use on the airplanes so that's the inhibitor of choice and will have to see how well it holds up.

 
'71 SF said:
I bought a Vapor Blasting cabinet and have started with the little pieces. I need a larger air compressor to get the CFM's steady since now it does OK, but nothing like what I watched while at Barbers. Looking at what the end product came out I was sold, so now the hard work of figuring out which media is best. But as mentioned in other threads the metal still needs to be treated to prevent the corrosion, ACF50 is what we use on the airplanes so that's the inhibitor of choice and will have to see how well it holds up.
Click to expand...

you bought a vapour blasting cabinet??????? I thought they are $15,000 +. Did you find a more economical unit, and if so, details, please  ;) ;)

Paul LeClair
 
Steve at Bevelheaven has an article on his website about cleaning cases using Simple Green and a scrub brush. The results he has posted look good and the price is right. The worry with glass bead and sand etc. is getting the stuff clean enough after blasting. A trip through the dishwasher when the wife isn't home usually suffices, but for the biggger things scrubbing with hot soapy water is needed.
 
Paul LeClair said:
you bought a vapour blasting cabinet??????? I thought they are $15,000 +. Did you find a more economical unit, and if so, details, please  ;) ;)

Paul LeClair
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Hi Paul. The one that I was about to drop the money on was $5K, went to order it and then the price was $6K and some BS about the increase and I put it off. Went to Barbers for the Vintage Festival and Vapor Honing Technologies (VHT) had their machines set up including the newest "Home" model for $1600. The added show special was the blast material and casters, add in $250 for freight and it's here. Like I posted above I am looking for a bigger compressor, and/or a large storage tank to get it to blast correctly but you can't beat the price. The shell is a durable plastic, no filter but for $4K less I can buy a lot of new blast material.

http://vaporhoningtechnologies.com



Clay
 

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Aluminum Brightener from your local NAPA store. The shops rarely get asked for it and most don't even know it exists.

?Part number #8252 Aluminum Brightener Cleaner, Size:1 gal / 3.78 L?

The Moto Guzzi engine block in the background was almost black with corrosion due to years being parked outdoors in Florida.



Get a full face respirator (think Breaking Bad type) and then in a mister bottle dilute the Aluminum Brightener 50/50 with water. You MUST wear the respirator at all times, this stuff does terrible things to eyes and lungs. Mist the solution all over the aluminum, wait a couple minutes and then blast off with a pressure washer. Repeat again and again until spotless. The key is you must hit the castings with as high a pressure of water as possible to blast off the oxidation / solution as the crud lifts. I have been using the stuff for over ten years and have restored many engines, hubs, brake plates etc... Nothing else touches it for quick and easy.

This oxidized enough for you?



This took about a half dozen soakings / blastings to look like this



Original and acid cleaned



I always strip Borrani rims then soak / blast the insides of them, they get pretty ugly after 40 years (and potentially dangerous)



Initial cleaning before removing spokes







 
Can you just use it without pulling the bit off,any damage to their materials? The centre part of my hubs are getting bad again and there unreachable. This stuff work for that while still on the bike? Must be pretty potent what with the respirator.
 
:o

2. COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Ingredient CAS Percentage Exposure limits
Hydrofluoric acid 7664-39-3 3 ? 7 LC50 5100 ppm/5 min., rat
LC50 1300 ppm/60 min., rat
LC50 6247 ppm/5 min., mouse
TLV 3ppm, ACGIH
PEL TWA 3ppp, OSHA
STEL 6ppm/15 min., OSHA
Sulfuric acid 7664-93-9 7 - 13 LD50 2140 mg/kg, rat, oral
LC50 1mg/m3, rat
TWA 1 mg/m3, ACGIH
Ethoxylated alcohols C10-14 66455-15-0 1 ? 5 No data.
Ethoxylated alcohols C10-16 68002-97-1 1 ? 5 LD50 1840 mg/kg, rat, oral
LD50 >2000 mg/kg, rabbit,dermal
LC50 5.7 mg/l, rat

3. HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION
Routes of entry: Dermal contact. Eye contact. Inhalation. Ingestion.
Potential acute health effects :
Eye contact : Liquid and vapour can cause an irritation or burn of the cornea.
Skin contact : Liquid and vapour can cause burns which may not be immediately be painful or
visible. The product can penetrate the skin and attack tissues and bones. Burns
over a large area (25 sq. in.) can cause hypocalcemia and other toxic effects which
can be fatal. Can cause burns in case of prolonged contact.
Inhalation : Can irritate the nose, throat and respiratory system. Symptoms can appear after
several hours. Severe exposure can cause burns of the nose and throat,
inflammation of the lungs and pulmonary oedema. Other toxic effects can appear,
including hypocalcemia, which must be treated immediately.
 
Vince said:
Can you just use it without pulling the bit off,any damage to their materials? The centre part of my hubs are getting bad again and there unreachable. This stuff work for that while still on the bike? Must be pretty potent what with the respirator.
Click to expand...

The 50/50 diluted aluminum brightener can change black painted parts or black anodized parts milky grey (Brembo calipers are susceptible to discolouring so be careful around them). I have found no other issues with painted steel, stainless steel or chrome, does not seem to impact rubber or plastics. The brightener will not remove grease or oils so clan the parts real good before using the solution. I cleaned the oxidation off this poor neglected SF1 before I dove deep into the restoration. Once you finish cleaning the oxidation and the parts have thoroughly dried I spray ACF50 on the castings and let it soak in and dry.

Like I said this is serious stuff but if you take the right safety precautions its OK to use and the results are amazing.

 
breganzane said:
Amazing results on that SF! It even repaints, rechromes and adds stickers!  Wonder if it's available in Oz?
Click to expand...

A similar product is available in Australia. It's called "Tech 001 Acidic Aluminium Brightener". Somewhat surprisingly (considering the toxicity of the stuff) you can get it on-line from Cleaners Supermarket http://www.cleaningshop.com.au/contents/en-us/p21006_Tech_001_Acidic_Aluminium_Brightener.html

Anyone using that stuff should take Canuck's recommendation to use a respirator and gloves seriously.
I reckon I'd want to wear a full chemical protection suit. Hydrofluoric acid will fuck you up in a big way. It can diffuse through your skin and enter your bones where it dissolves the calcium. It takes time for this to happen so you may not know you've been affected until your bones start turning to mush.

 
Canuck750 said:
Aluminum Brightener from your local NAPA store. The shops rarely get asked for it and most don't even know it exists.

?Part number #8252 Aluminum Brightener Cleaner, Size:1 gal / 3.78 L?
Click to expand...

Wish I had found this post earlier. Everything I tried was crap ...... coke would have worked better nthan the shit I tried.
 
We use a similar product that is labeled for use in the aircraft industry (just makes the price higher). The issue with any of these is they remove material, they look great but the longer each is soaked or used the more material is taken off. Most of the parts we have on the bikes is pretty stout so some of the base material loss is not that big of an issue. However, if it gets into the cracks that you can't/don't get to rinse it off and neutralize it will continue to eat at the metal. This is the reason I went with the vapor blaster, not perfect but pretty close. And for the toxicity of using a chemical strip, the fumes it puts off will eat your eyes, face, skin, and lungs up.

If you are really curious about how aggressive and caustic the chemical strip is then find a small piece of aluminum and put it in a small plastic bucket outside and pour this stuff on straight and leave it for a couple of days.

Clay
 
When I use the Aluminum Brightener I suit up with rubber boots, rain pants and coat, rubber gloves and most importantly the full face respirator with ACID RESISTANT CARTRIDGES.

I then head off to my local coin-op car wash and use the truck bay with the super high pressure wand. I usually go late in the evening. Take a pail or large tub and spray the parts over the tub, let soak and then blast off with high pressure, repeat. Once the tub has collected the runoff I soak small parts then blast away.

The look on the guy who can't wait for me clear the bay and presses the power operator then sees me in the chemical suit is priceless!

Keep the respirator on at all times.
 
I did Quartz Blast at 140 PSI on the sand cast Valve cover, Barrels and Engine case, during a tare down, and extensively polished, by hand, with Polishing Compound and treat the finish with Wax and Red Rust Check. You are correct, I use Epoxy Undercoat topped with Tremclad Alu-Paint and Auto-Motive Acrylic Laquer on the frame and Generator casing, which I rebuilt, nut heads and baked them in an oven but my engine casing covers and Borraini wheels are hand polished.

There's no easy way around it. Just be thankful it's not Chrome.

I have lots of blackened linen rags saturated with polishing compound but my friend with a Chrome Harley has to deal with Rust Blisters.

Gotta treat your ride like a Woman - Time consuming, expensive and demands attention. Never tell your Girl that. She will eventually figure that out and heaven forbid.

Hard to say which I love most a Woman or Racing. She knew I was a Racer - Take it for as long as we can - I don't regret it and she knew what I was - Didn't hide it.

May be why I had a Bad Boy reputation with Women but she choose me and we have countless Grandchildren today - Which I'm very proud of.

I'm no Joey Dunlop but polish your casings



 
Nothing more time consuming then polishing them rear Cerriani coils - Because they're Chromed.

My old SF is not a competive racer today but still a worthy Sport Cruiser suitable for my age.

Fuck the polishing crap but very easy to maintain, dependable, fast enough and a joy to mount after 40 years with her.

I've owned much fast rides but that SF is a my sweet heart and the only bike I kept and the reason an old fart still rides, subject to her quirks. Believe me, it's as if, she hasn't tried killing me once or twice.
 
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