Parts washer fluid - any suggestions?

Exmoor beast

Exmoor beast

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Minehead,Somerset, ENGLAND OF COURSE
I bought 25 litres of parts washer fluid, had good reviews and it’s rubbish! It’s slimey ( like a detergent) but looks, smells and feels like Road traffic film remover that you would use as a pre wash spray. I tried degreasing some engine parts and it just smeared the grease around and the brush is caked in grease, no dissolving effect whatsoever . I tried leaving it to soak- still no better. I then get back in touch with the seller explaining how poor it was at degreasing and told them my thoughts about it being lorry wash…well it is lorry wash…sold as suitable for parts washers.
I’m getting nowhere with fuckwit automotive so I’m asking what product can you recommend ? Failing that I’m going to use paraffin and then I’ve got four lifetimes worth of lorry wash to clean the Mem’s car with..
 
The best hint I ever got for anything that is grease or oil related (tar, oil, grees, wachs etc.): WD40 or similar thin oil. Spray on, use a brush to losen the dirt, spray again and clear off with a soap based bike and car cleaner. works really well... In my parts-washer, I used similar the bike cleaner from Louis: https://www.louis.eu/en/s100-total-...-2-5l-10055935?filter_article_number=10055935

Brake cleaner or other degreasing solvents just dry out the grease and can make it potentially more "sticky". Also, Braker cleaner can - depending on the product - be very agressive to surfaces and especially to skin and your throat and lungth, your eyes etc. I would be very carefull with that...

For the product you bought: maybe it needs to be thinned by adding water?
 
Last edited:
Laverdalothar said:
The best hint I ever got for anything that is grease or oil related (tar, oil, grees, wachs etc.): WD40 or similar thin oil. Spray on, use a brush to losen the dirt, spray again and clear off with a soap based bike and car cleaner. works really well... In my parts-washer, I used similar the bike cleaner from Louis: https://www.louis.eu/en/s100-total-...-2-5l-10055935?filter_article_number=10055935

Brake cleaner or other degreasing solvents just dry out the grease and can make it potentially more "sticky". Also, Braker cleaner can - depending on the product - be very agressive to surfaces and especially to skin and your throat and lungth, your eyes etc. I would be very carefull with that...

For the product you bought: maybe it needs to be thinned by adding water?
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I know a car valet guy the uses WD40 as a pre steam cleaner, swears by it. As for thinning this stuff, you can dilute it up to 20:1 but actually suggests using it neat in a parts washer .If its shite neat I don’t suppose it will get better by adding water - I’m annoyed because I did check out the reviews and most sung its praises . I’ve got a Citrus degreaser that works quite well but the parts washer has a fused lid that slams closed if a fire breaks out - so it was designed for use with a spirit base fluid not this water/ alkaline stuff.
 
Being an old bike wrench, I would have thought you knew which product in UK works best.
Gunk engine cleaner, which I believe is also available in Blighty, was my choice when I still had access.

Gerald
 
Exmoor beast said:
I know a car valet guy the uses WD40 as a pre steam cleaner, swears by it. As for thinning this stuff, you can dilute it up to 20:1 but actually suggests using it neat in a parts washer .If its shite neat I don’t suppose it will get better by adding water - I’m annoyed because I did check out the reviews and most sung its praises . I’ve got a Citrus degreaser that works quite well but the parts washer has a fused lid that slams closed if a fire breaks out - so it was designed for use with a spirit base fluid not this water/ alkaline stuff.
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Try the WD40 and give it some time and some "elbow grease" with a proper brush, you will be surprised how good it works. It actually thins the grease and goes between the grease and the part, which helps to get it off. On rims f.e., it works really well to remove chain grease.
 
Exmoor beast said:
I bought 25 litres of parts washer fluid, had good reviews and it’s rubbish! It’s slimey ( like a detergent) but looks, smells and feels like Road traffic film remover that you would use as a pre wash spray. I tried degreasing some engine parts and it just smeared the grease around and the brush is caked in grease, no dissolving effect whatsoever . I tried leaving it to soak- still no better. I then get back in touch with the seller explaining how poor it was at degreasing and told them my thoughts about it being lorry wash…well it is lorry wash…sold as suitable for parts washers.
I’m getting nowhere with fuckwit automotive so I’m asking what product can you recommend ? Failing that I’m going to use paraffin and then I’ve got four lifetimes worth of lorry wash to clean the Mem’s car with..
Click to expand...
Diesel fuel w/ a quart of ATF works a treat.
 
Isn't WD40 mostly what we im Oz call Kero, kerocene, or you call Parafine? Something I found a while ago that shocked the hell out of me, the Carby cleaner I use melts Power Coating in seconds.
 
Diesel is a good degreaser but terrible for your skin.
WD40 is Hygroscopic (it takes on water) which may accumulate sufficiently to drop out in the reservoir and rust out the reservoir.
I made this mistake on my small Myford lathe about the same time a friend discovered the same issue with his black powder flintlock guns after he stripped and soaked them to remove powder acids.
Paraffin works but obviously there is a fire hazard.
Modern Gunk is terrible and Jizer that pink stuff I discovered ‘goes off’. Found an old tin thought I’d use it. Regretted it almost immediately.
Can’t remember which company/fluid we used at the motorcycle workshop I worked in used but it was great but I’d imagine only suitable for commercial use as I would think to expensive for the individual/amateur/ hobby mechanic. They dealt with disposal, which can be an issue these days.
 
Charley said:
Diesel is a good degreaser but terrible for your skin.
WD40 is Hygroscopic (it takes on water) which may accumulate sufficiently to drop out in the reservoir and rust out the reservoir.
I made this mistake on my small Myford lathe about the same time a friend discovered the same issue with his black powder flintlock guns after he stripped and soaked them to remove powder acids.
Paraffin works but obviously there is a fire hazard.
Modern Gunk is terrible and Jizer that pink stuff I discovered ‘goes off’. Found an old tin thought I’d use it. Regretted it almost immediately.
Can’t remember which company/fluid we used at the motorcycle workshop I worked in used but it was great but I’d imagine only suitable for commercial use as I would think to expensive for the individual/amateur/ hobby mechanic. They dealt with disposal, which can be an issue these days.
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I’m surprised WD 40 is Hygroscopic as its stands for Water Dispersant 40 ( 40th attempt to get formula right!) I buy it by the gallon and add about 10% oil to give it a bit more go.
Gunk & Jizer have both changed formula but still stinks. We used to have a company come and change the barrel on our parts washer that was on contract in bike shop days- I think you may also be right about the disposal side of things being a problem.
 
Exmoor beast said:
I’m surprised WD 40 is Hygroscopic as its stands for Water Dispersant 40 ( 40th attempt to get formula right!) I buy it by the gallon and add about 10% oil to give it a bit more go.
Gunk & Jizer have both changed formula but still stinks. We used to have a company come and change the barrel on our parts washer that was on contract in bike shop days- I think you may also be right about the disposal side of things being a problem.
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Safety-kleen?
 
I just googled WD40, No Kerosene.
Key Components Breakdown
  • Hydrotreated Heavy Naphtha (50–60%): A volatile solvent that acts as a cleaner and carrier.
  • Mineral Oil (<25%): The main lubricating ingredient that remains after the solvent evaporates.
  • Aliphatic Hydrocarbons (10-15%): Used to adjust viscosity.
  • Carbon Dioxide (2–4%): Propellant used to dispense the product.
  • Additives (<10%): The "secret" ingredients that provide rust protection and anti-corrosion properties.
Contrary to popular myths, WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, or graphite. The name stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula," reflecting its original purpose of protecting missile parts from rust.
 

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Vince is correct, there are to many "myths" around WD40 that are not true. It might not be the best for what it is sold, but for cleaning parts from grease based mud, I personally found it VERY helpful.

BUT: WD40 is more a brand these days than a product. There are several products called WD40. I am talking about the original product, but there is also a degreaser existing from WD40, that I haven't used yet.
 
Andy said:
Once upon a time, our local garage had a kerosene bowser. I would regularly fill a tin for a fraction of the cost of petrol.
Not now…
Sigh
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When I was a kid, we used to get kero in square tin cans, probably equivalent of 25 litres.

A kero heater in the lounge, kero blowtorch in the shed, kero for parts washing and kero and brown paper wrappers for sprained ankles. Paper soaked in kero for lighting the hot water donkey and combustion stove.

I seem to remember kero for leather shoe …… stretching maybe????
 
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