Patience sapping

rocketonarail

rocketonarail

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Location
Gloucestershire,England
Not really Laverda specific ....... although it could be if you`re into updating 50 year old Italian electrics ........

Dis - lodging wires from multi - connectors .......... Does any one have a sure fire method of releasing the buggers ? ....... I`ve spent many an evening trying to do this on this connector ( condition unimportant , this is just for practice before I attempt to try it on the real thing ) ) , without success .

The latch on this particular connector has to be flattened from the directions the wires enter it , by the look of things , which in this case seems practically impossible to do ........... other connectors may be easier , but not this one ........ and this one is the same type as on the bike ........ I opened this one up to get a better idea of how the latches engaged ......

Looks like I will have to replace the one on the bike with a couple of nines , plus a two ........

Extra connectors to replace the one large one is no great problem , apart from extending the wires to accommodate the new ones which is a bit of a faff , but can be done ......... but I just wondered if anyone on here has any ideas regarding this ? ........ Probably not , but you never know .......... :) ...........

IMG_20241009_223801_918.jpgIMG_20241009_223748_902.jpg
 
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Those Ignitech terminals are released from the side opposite the wire, there is a little plastic tab which locks the terminal. I have a few generic release tools but find it works best with my smallest instrument flat blade screwdriver. Push the terminal forward to relieve the pressure on the fish hook type retainer clip, then depress the tang, and jiggle... holding your tongue just-so also helps.
 
... and of course once you know it's called a Multilock 070 series by AMP, there is of course a youtube PhD available...


Some more...

Note that these terminals need a very unusual "narrow-but-tall" crimp as the space in the connector is narrow. As such wire size should also be not too large, thin wall automotive wire helps, 1sqmm-ish.

As a general response to your general question, there is no single way to remove any pin. Each connector system has it's own specific system and method, and often unique release tools. These ones are actually pretty good since an instrument screwdriver works very well and does not damage the block. Find out what the connector is and then go to google and find all the data sheets for correct info.

 
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breganzane said:
... and of course once you know it's called a Multilock 070 series by AMP, there is of course a youtube PhD available...


Some more...

Note that these terminals need a very unusual "narrow-but-tall" crimp as the space in the connector is narrow. As such wire size should also be not too large, thin wall automotive wire helps, 1sqmm-ish.

As a general response to your general question, there is no single way to remove any pin. Each connector system has it's own specific system and method, and often unique release tools. These ones are actually pretty good since an instrument screwdriver works very well and does not damage the block. Find out what the connector is and then go to google and find all the data sheets for correct info.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for that ..... makes things a lot clearer .......... I didn`t realise those anti-backout strips had to be folded back before the terminals could be released .......... that`s obviously why I was having so much trouble .......

This particular type of connector is the only one of it`s type on the bike .......... it`s more compact size means it was used to save space I guess , seeing it has to deal with 20 wire connections ....... It connects the headlamp / instrument sub loom to the main loom ........ the other connectors are the more normal type with better access , with which I have no trouble releasing the terminals .......

Because there`s less room for manoeuvre with the connector that is in place on the bike , I thought that having so much trouble releasing the terminals would make it easier to just replace it with two or three " normal " connectors , but now that video shows how easy it really is ( once those anti-backout strips have been moved out of the way ) , then I should be able to keep the BWC as it`s known ( Big White Connector .... I like technical terminology :) ) , in it`s place ........

BTW ... I do already have a crimp tool which works quite well ........ bought quite a few years ago for about a tenner , probably ... ! .........

....... Thanks again for the help ..........
 
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