Piston ring end gap?

Did the Kawasaki’s of that time have so much engine troubles that the dealers needed such a device to keep up? I thought the air-cooled motors were bulletproof!
 
Just finished a top-end rebuild on a 2009 Mini Cooper. Instructions for installation of the piston rings spell out precisely how the manufacturer of said rings thinks they should be staggered when installed. Who am I to argue? Yes, they do move about, but from what I can find it is in fact pertinent and important to start with staggered ring gaps. As to ring gaps, wider than specified has, from what I've experienced, little impact on compression or otherwise. It's when things get truly worn that it matters. Too small a gap is more dangerous, because if the ring ends contact the ring can/will break.
 
An interesting tool. Presumably model specific due to the cutouts for cylinder studs ?
it came in Kawasaki factory packaging, marked for KZ 650, and included the thin coat hangar like bent rods to slide under all four pistons to stop things moving around. Once the barrel slides as far down the piston as possible the ends of the cylinder liners touch the frame work of the compression tool, which then conveniently uncouples and breaks down into 2 main pieces. Slide them out, then slide the thin rods out from under the pistons, and tap the barrel the rest of the way home...

I have to admit to having had problems with the interface between the bottom of the cylinder barrel and the top of the engine case, turned out to be a chain guide mounting that was interfering and preventing the barrel from completely seating, the ring compressor tool made the fettling process painless, I had the barrel on and off 4 times before getting everything figured out and correct. Made dealing with the rings slick and painless. I really like well designed tools. Has me thinking about fabricating something similar for Laverda triple piston rings.

now I have to pull the head to install the head gasket I left out...... :rolleyes:
 
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