Polishing/protecting aluminum engine covers?

Paul LeClair

Paul LeClair

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Staff member
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hi all

unfortunately fall is here, and I likely have at most another couple of weeks, if lucky, to ride. Part of my annual fall ritual of prepping the bikes for the long winter storage is when I  have all the basic storage maintenance stuff done, and the bike clean, I typically give the engine covers a good polish and wax, but by spring they have typically dulled down again.

some have recommended putting on a heavy coat of wax, leaving the wax to haze, then leaving the wax haze on until spring. Haven't tried that. Does that work?

an acquaintance suggested to me yesterday to mirror polish the various engine covers then take them in and have them clear high gloss powdercoated............... got me thinking. I wonder how that would look, and how that would stand up over time? Has anyone tried clear powdercoating Laverda engine covers? What was the result?

Paul LeClair
 
Sounds like a shit idea Paul  :) :) :) :)

Never get a total seal around the componet with powder coat or laquer as it has to be removed at the gasket face, get a wee bit of moisture underneath and it all comes off again, that is why old Jap alloy sidecovers end up looking 'orrible after one winter.

My favourite alloy polish is Belgom Alu, they seem to stay shiny for longer as that product has some sort of wax in it, get down the shed a couple of times over the winter, put some fine tunes on and have a good old polish up and a couple of beers while dreaming of spring.

    Keith.
 
Slosh over some ACF50 (it's like sticky WD40)  In spring, give it a wipe and ride.  Keeps Too Clean looking good through the Scottish winter  :D

Reggie
 
laverdakeith said:
My favourite alloy polish is Belgom Alu, they seem to stay shiny for longer as that product has some sort of wax in it, get down the shed a couple of times over the winter, put some fine tunes on and have a good old polish up and a couple of beers while dreaming of spring.

     Keith.
Click to expand...

I agree with the use of Belgom Alu and the beer to wait for spring. Very good results

I use the wood wax spray (Johnson type) for the bodywork, rims and chrome parts

A wipe over in early spring and it's ok

Xavier
 
Belgom alu is by far the best since you remove it immediately after the polishing with a large stock of clean clothes, don't let it haze otherwise the job can be hard and the result not perfect.
 
Isn?t that Street Crud :D
Have to admit to being an honorary life member of The Great Unwashed.
Something about that polishing action that reminds me of a misspent youth.
I sometimes run items over the buffing wheels when I have them off the bike. Looks weird though, a filthy tipbike with a gleaming part here and there.
Perhaps the next BOM will be Most Street Crud award.
 
+1  for the amazing ACF50.

I was given a can of this a few years ago and started to use it, since then I have replaced it with a further two cans, its an aerosol, but goes a very long way.I have a restored 1200/180 motor (complete) just waiting for when I need it, I sprayed it with ACF50, you have to do this over some newspeper, since some will run off, and then wherever it puddles, just dab it with a cotton cloth.All the polished engine covers, vapour blast cleaned castings,even the repainted starter motor, and stainless bolts etc, have remained absolutely as the day the storage began, about two years ago, not in a damp environment, a nice dry one, but a bit cold, the cellar of my house.I am sure it would wash off with some engine degreaser and a pressure wash jet, very good stuff, much underated,
get some!
CLEM
 
ACF 50 is amazingly restorative on old plastics too.
Didn't realise the buttons on my old Beemers switches were actually coloured.

It is reassuringly expensive however.

ShedBob
 
I use ACF50 too. I don't know for sure, but after cleaning down cast alu surfaces that have had ACF50 on for a long while, I could swear they come out brighter than they were when first slooshed with ACF50. As if the ACF loosens the dirt in the grain (over time, say over winter).

Also, if you rub ACF50 on a polished alu surface, there is a very slight polishing effect - your cloth will pick up some 'black' from the alu.

Paul H

Scrumps - I agree with Tippie - filthy Laverdas is a great BoM idea.
 
I've one for you.. It DOES WORK..

  Buy a trigger spray......... Small tin of light tan shoe polish and a litre of turps.... Melt the shoe polish and the turps and spray on.... Works at treat....  I 'spose it its a bit like bees wax....

    Worked a treat on my Mirage !  Made it invisible..... Doesn't mess with rubber either !

    Parrafin eats rubber , turps doesn't.  FORGET WHITE SPIRIT that destroys ALL RUBBER
 
Hello folks

I must admit ACF50 is remarkable stuff I used it on the tail gate lock on the car last winter even jet washing didn`t shift it and it was still there in the spring . Steve Winterton used it on his RGS casings all through last winter and the salt never touched them with just one application .

For protection over winter in the garage I have had great results with GT85 usually stocked by cycle shops

Cheers
Tetley
 
The Three Dellortos said:
I've one for you.. It DOES WORK..

   Buy a trigger spray......... Small tin of light tan shoe polish and a litre of turps.... Melt the shoe polish and the turps and spray on.... Works at treat....  I 'spose it its a bit like bees wax....

    Worked a treat on my Mirage !  Made it invisible..... Doesn't mess with rubber either !

    Parrafin eats rubber , turps doesn't.   FORGET WHITE SPIRIT that destroys ALL RUBBER
Click to expand...

there's white spirit in the shoe polish - worked for reckitts once!
 
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