Primary chain

Rokka

Rokka

Junior member
Location
Peterborough
Quick Q I'm sure you'll all know and I think I know but would just like to check, as there doesn't appear to be any mention of it in the W/S manual and no obvious adjustment window or drain plug like on a British bike, I'm assuming the primary chain on an RGS is lubricated by the engine oil in the sump is that correct?
 
There is a school of thought that suggests removing the primary chain tensioner bolt and draining the chaincase, every other oil change.
Remember to anneal the copper washers before reusing them.
 
No need to drain it on an RGS as it is properly drained to the case when doing an oil change, unlike the earlier engines. For tensioning, tighten till you feel the resistance increase rapidly (indicating all the slack just disappeared) then back off 3/4 - 1 turn. A bit loose better than too tight. Ooh er.
 
breganzane said:
No need to drain it on an RGS as it is properly drained to the case when doing an oil change, unlike the earlier engines. For tensioning, tighten till you feel the resistance increase rapidly (indicating all the slack just disappeared) then back off 3/4 - 1 turn. A bit loose better than too tight. Ooh er.
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Depends on the chains. Definitely on the loose side if using twin chains rather than duplex nor triplex.
Paul
 
Perry said:
I'm meeting Luxury girl on Thursday , will let you know how it goes 👍
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Lucky old you ......... I`m still stuck with Grannies From Yate .............

BTW ..... regarding primary chains ....... It was always Reginas for me , and they never seemed to be lacking in lubrication ........... Just screw in till you hear a whine . then back off a little bit ..........

Get a new one ( or pair ) every 15,000 miles .
 
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rocketonarail said:
Lucky old you ......... I`m still stuck with Grannies From Yate .............

BTW ..... regarding primary chains ....... It was always Reginas for me , and they never seemed to be lacking in lubrication ........... Just screw in till you hear a whine . then back off a little bit ..........

Get a new one ( or pair ) every 15,000 miles .
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Apparently the whine method is for 180's and the adjustment method is for the 120's, the reason for why. 🤷‍♂️
 
Alan said:
Apparently the whine method is for 180's and the adjustment method is for the 120's, the reason for why. 🤷‍♂️
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The whine method isn't a good idea and if not recommended for the 120s, it's because of those twin chains which wear unevenly and need to be left a bit loose,......and clatter.
Paul
 
Actually it was my childish attempt at humour .......... What I really did with the 1200 was screw in the adjuster ( engine not running ) until I felt some resistance , then backed off one turn ......... Similar to Mr Breganzane ........

Did this every 3000 miles .
 
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