primary drive cover removal

That is a great trick Frank. I would guess 4 taps at say 2 - 4 -  8  & 10 o'clock would do it and turn each bolt the same amount to  keep the pressure even across the case.
 
Eddie,

Once you do get the cover off, check the needle race on the crankshaft.  This is secured with 3 hits with a centre punch.  If these are too deep, they can deform the race to extent that it actally jams in the bearing.  Tell-tale sign is un-even wear, 3 rough patches around the outer edge.  If in doubt, put a dial guage to it and turn the crank.  Be prepared to find more than expected run-out too!

If the race shows sign of wear, replace both race and bearing.  Make sure the stub of the crank is round before you install the new inner race.

Ideally, the cover should simply slip on and off with only light taps with a rubber mallet needed to move it.  Definitely something wrong if it doesn't!

piet
 
Yea, definitely something bad. Concerned about Eddie's comment that he had to tighten the cover bolts to get the cover to close up last time, that is not the way it goes.. :(

8)
 
Yep, something nasty going on here alright, a frustrating situation. The fact it won't budge even 1mm is the concern, even if it stuck at the crank, and or the tensioner pin was stuck tight, you'd still get the back to move a smidgen.

Without wishing to sound like a pesirmist: As all logical bases have been covered here, I've got $5 that says one of the pins wasn't in the race properly, or some other foreighn matter was there, and has been wedged tight when "bolt tightening closure" was performed. While she's turned over its worn a nasty seat for itself. There might be more swearing involved when you look inside, than when getting the cover off.

Best of luck!
 
Pictures of the needle bearings. The front one looks crook?

I read you are supposed to see the writing, which is correct on the rear but the front one looks worn?

The flat blade approach worked a lot better.

I can not pull the cover from the shafts until the last minute.

This does not seem right to me.

The shafts run true.

Thanks all.

 

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If people are saying they need to use pairing knives and wooden wedges, then perhaps I am not alone.

I was of the understanding that if you took out all the bolts and spun the starter motor, the cover would come off. I tried this and it didnt budge, even running the starter motor for about 1-3 minutes.

I am having to use considerable force around the edge of the cover. In my book, anything that needs forcing or levering usually isnt right.

However I am reasonably new to the Laverda scene and perhaps this is how it should be?

Cheers
Ed.
 
Any chance of borrowing another primary casing to see if it solves the problem? Then you can look into bearings or other stuff.
 
Don't know about 'looks' Eddie.. get your measuring gear out and try internal bearing faces and external shaft measurements. What about any witness marks on the shaft ends..? Pull these bearings in any case, and try the new ones on the shafts prior to fitting into the cover.. is the space for the bearings in the cover damaged in any way, so that when you press the bearing in it deforms it..? Are the bearings even in straight, and not kinked in some way..?
Run your finger around the bearing pins and see if they spin easily..? Basic stuff, but you'll find something I'm sure. The true joy of Laverda is finding the solutions and learning as you go..
bearing details in/out shouldn't make any difference..
We await your investigations Sherlock..
8)
 
The crank bearing looks like it's be whacked in all wrong. The case is buggered! When forced in like that the needle basket is going to be bent, creating a shitty fit. She must have been tight alright, I'd put a new one in and see how it goes. If it won't slide home, or even with a firm hit from your palm, somethings wrong!
 
Take the front bearing out first, then fit it and see if it slides in easy peasy.
If so then there's your problem.

I usually stick the bearings in a freezer bag and leave them overnight in the freezer.
Then when ready to fit them I heat up the primary casing. I find it helps a bit.
 
chriskay said:
The crank bearing looks like it's be whacked in all wrong. The case is buggered! When forced in like that the needle basket is going to be bent, creating a shitty fit. She must have been tight alright, I'd put a new one in and see how it goes. If it won't slide home, or even with a firm hit from your palm, somethings wrong!
Click to expand...

Why's that?

Looks like a factory stock fitment to me...

I'd be investigating the race on the crank.  These are often replaced for various necessary as well as unnecessary reasons.  An improper fitting of the race can lead to damage.  The needles seldom give problems, usually forced installation of the cover. :D

Eddie,

Pics taken at an angle would have been more useful.

piet
 
                                "If people are saying they need to use pairing knives and wooden wedges, then perhaps I am not alone."


I've never had to resort to flat blades/wedges to remove the cover. Usually give it a tap around the edges that opens it enough to get my finger nail in behind anf the cover just slides off. Same with replacing, just give it a thump with my open palm on the bearing areas and it just slides home.
I'd be replacing both bearings if it was mine. Where are you?? must be some local lav owners that'd have a spare cover to try, I've got 2 spare here but I'm in bum fuck nowhere so probably of no help. Can send one to you if you'd like to try the fit.
 
Don't think the cover is at fault, unless the bike has been thrown down the road and it is badly distorted...

More likely to be excessive crank run-out, perhaps even a bent mainshaft, but that is very rare. 

Eddie,
How about a pic of the crank end?

piet
 
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