Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
He was obviously at his Witt's end
Problem with 750 GT
- Thread starter Brett64
- Start date
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
SimonR501 said:Yeah, Tyco (TE Connectivity) are a bit anal about it - it is a science!
It's not just squeeze her up tight and she'll be right.
Here it is - I believe the little spoked wheel changes the spring tension on the crimp:
Actually, mine does have that little ratcheded wheel - I was thinking it's not adjustable because it requires a full fist and generates loads of pressure before releasing, but it is probably attenuated somehow. Always works a treat anyway - and love how it does the wire and the insulation section in one.
Nice to hear the GT is running properly - but there is definitely a glitch in that Witt system.
I converted to my SF to elec about 40 years ago with a nippon denso system from a Suzuki GS 750/1000, backing plate, magnets, trigger, igniter box - never missed a beat in 100s of 1000's of km ... but not programmable.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
That's a bit more sophisticated than my crimping tool, which is one of these (below)
It does a reasonable job, but not infallible. You can sometimes pull the wire out of the crimped joint. Perhaps that explains my lack of trust of crimped joints. I like to crimp AND solder
It does a reasonable job, but not infallible. You can sometimes pull the wire out of the crimped joint. Perhaps that explains my lack of trust of crimped joints. I like to crimp AND solder
Simonr501
Hero member
- Location
- Lympne, Kent. UK
If you have a 'torque wrist' then you should be fine.
Otherwise with the more sophisticated tool you get it right first time every time! The grip of the tool anvil will not release until you have achieved a pre-set squeeze - Hey Presto a perfect crimp and no need to solder.
Otherwise with the more sophisticated tool you get it right first time every time! The grip of the tool anvil will not release until you have achieved a pre-set squeeze - Hey Presto a perfect crimp and no need to solder.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I'll never trust crimped terminations 100% and I'm too old and grumpy to change my ways now 
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
Can't see how connecting directly to battery exonerates the connector...and for the record, the multiway connector I was and am referring to is the one that plugs on to the DMC box. It uses junior timer type crimp connectors.Brett64 said:
Brett64
Junior member
- Location
- Port Macquarie NSW Australia
Hi Rob,
The multiway connector I removed and crimped new small splade terminals with heat shrink and connected them to the DMC box.
I then ran the power cable from the DMC box (red) to the positive terminal of the battery along with the positive terminal wires from the coils.
Then I started the bike by turning on the ignition and once running I turned the ignition off and the bike continues to run as the DMC box and coils are directly powered and not operating via the bikes wiring loom, the only wires that were functional were the negative grounded wires which were newly wired and confirmed as ok.
I took her for a good solid 80km plus ride today with a combination of highway and backroads, speeds up to 140km/h without a miss or problem. So there cannot be a problem with the motorcycle a the only time she ran poorly was with the DMC installed.
Anyway Greg is sending up another unit to install and try, however I am tempted to take a long ride down to Melbourne and have him install it, any excuse for a ride!!
The multiway connector I removed and crimped new small splade terminals with heat shrink and connected them to the DMC box.
I then ran the power cable from the DMC box (red) to the positive terminal of the battery along with the positive terminal wires from the coils.
Then I started the bike by turning on the ignition and once running I turned the ignition off and the bike continues to run as the DMC box and coils are directly powered and not operating via the bikes wiring loom, the only wires that were functional were the negative grounded wires which were newly wired and confirmed as ok.
I took her for a good solid 80km plus ride today with a combination of highway and backroads, speeds up to 140km/h without a miss or problem. So there cannot be a problem with the motorcycle a the only time she ran poorly was with the DMC installed.
Anyway Greg is sending up another unit to install and try, however I am tempted to take a long ride down to Melbourne and have him install it, any excuse for a ride!!
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
Ah, now I understand so withdraw my comment! Just leaves the optical trigger or the box as you say.
Brett64
Junior member
- Location
- Port Macquarie NSW Australia
Hi Rob,
Yes that can be the only two items that maybe faulting, either the DMC box or infrared photocell.
Overall it has been a great learning curve!
Currently going through another one at the moment as my 1928 Indian arrived the other day and so now going through the process of commissioning it prior to starting it as it has sat unstarted for some 3 yrs after it was totally restored.
Yes that can be the only two items that maybe faulting, either the DMC box or infrared photocell.
Overall it has been a great learning curve!
Currently going through another one at the moment as my 1928 Indian arrived the other day and so now going through the process of commissioning it prior to starting it as it has sat unstarted for some 3 yrs after it was totally restored.