Question about the factory luggage system

[Magoo]

looking at Piet's photos, the mounting to the the back of the foot peg mount panel is a modification. On the actual "Executive" model (of which there were very few), there is a mounting point molded in. The quality of the bag frames is very high.

As a longtime owner of an Executive model, while the factory saddle bags are fairly stylish, they hold almost nothing. Pretty much useless for actual travel..... This fitting process you are going through is a style exercise, not a functional one. If the bike is going to be used for long-distance work, go to large Hepco Becker bags or similar. Hepco Becker also used to offer mounting brackets specific to the RGS, don't know if still available?

Personally, I put the factory bags on primarily for occasional display at bike shows. When travelling any distance for several days, I leave the factory bags off and hang a pair of substantial soft luggage over the passenger seat and hanging over the sides where the hard bags otherwise go, the factory bag mountings are handy mostly to keep the soft luggage off the rear wheel. Any decent tank bag will hold more than both Laverda factory hard bags combined. Style over function.

I will shoot a couple of photos of the mountings for you if the bikes owner remains determined. I would not bother myself if the goal is actual function and actual travel, if the goal is style, go for it.......

I agree that the bags are practically useless but seeing as they came with the bike he would like to be able to mount them.
If it were me I would just slap a tank bag on it and call it a day.

 

[Magoo]

It’s finally gonna get ridden for the first time since 2014. My shop is a wreck from clearing a path so I could get it off the lift an out the door. Here goes! I hope it doesn’t leave me on the side of the road. lol

 

[chrisk]

It’s finally gonna get ridden for the first time since 2014. I hope it doesn’t leave me on the side of the road. lol
View attachment 99316

Don’t forget your phone and wallet.

 

[Andy]

Don’t forget your phone and wallet.

And a few tools, something critical is bound to loosen if your tools are back in the shop…

 

[Magoo]

Don’t forget your phone and wallet.

That’s what she said.

 

[Magoo]

It happened! I finally rode this thing.
Let’s just say it doesn’t handle great on the dirt and gravel road on my driveway and the road to my house but once I got to pavement it came to life. I didn’t do a full ride but I did 18 miles of twisties and got up above 9000ft altitude and it was still pulling nicely. It was actually somewhat of a non event. It runs pretty nicely.

Here’s my 2 cents:
It’s a bit quicker than I expected. It doesn’t seem to like lower rpm but once you get it rolling and up over 5K it really smooths out and pulls well.

Just like most Euro bikes I’ve ridden 1st gear seems to high and it wants to shudder a bit until you get moving quicker in 1st. After that it’s smooth sailing. On the pipe it’s probably the smoothest triple I have ever ridden.
The seating position is nice but the windshield funnels the wind right into my face. I passed a few sport bikers coming down while I was going up and it certainly turned some heads.
Overall, I like it. I don’t think I could ride it all day like I can on my ZG1000 Concours and I don’t think it could hang with my ZG but it definitely gets more style points.

The bad:
This thing was a rattling SOB on the dirt road. I couldn’t have been more particular putting all of the fairing and instrument bracket and such together but it has some serious rattles.
Unfortunately the fuel and temperature gauges don’t work. The tach is accurate over 3000rpm. Under that the needle jumps around.
It also has a rattle under acceleration that goes away under engine braking. I’m thinking it might be the cam chain. It has a manual adjuster so I’m gonna tweak that a bit and see if it goes away.
Also if pushed it a bit through a turn I noticed a slight wobble through the bars. Not much and it only happened twice but I think next time I ride it I will remove the Telefix fork brace and see what happens.

Any ideas on the fuel and temperature gauges. Is it usually just sensor issues or is it instrument issues?

Overall it was a pant load of fun to finally ride it. I’ll take it for a longer ride next time. I’m pretty confident it’s not gonna leave me stranded.

 

[motoddrob]

If you want to improve the exhaust note and make it sound like a real Laverda triple you could rephrase the crank to 180deg

 

[Magoo]

If you want to improve the exhaust note and make it sound like a real Laverda triple you could rephrase the crank to 180deg

I’ll let the owner do that. I have several of my own projects that I need to get back to.

 

[Magoo]

looking at Piet's photos, the mounting to the the back of the foot peg mount panel is a modification. On the actual "Executive" model (of which there were very few), there is a mounting point molded in. The quality of the bag frames is very high.

As a longtime owner of an Executive model, while the factory saddle bags are fairly stylish, they hold almost nothing. Pretty much useless for actual travel..... This fitting process you are going through is a style exercise, not a functional one. If the bike is going to be used for long-distance work, go to large Hepco Becker bags or similar. Hepco Becker also used to offer mounting brackets specific to the RGS, don't know if still available?

Personally, I put the factory bags on primarily for occasional display at bike shows. When travelling any distance for several days, I leave the factory bags off and hang a pair of substantial soft luggage over the passenger seat and hanging over the sides where the hard bags otherwise go, the factory bag mountings are handy mostly to keep the soft luggage off the rear wheel. Any decent tank bag will hold more than both Laverda factory hard bags combined. Style over function.

I will shoot a couple of photos of the mountings for you if the bikes owner remains determined. I would not bother myself if the goal is actual function and actual travel, if the goal is style, go for it.......

At this point I would like any information I can find about mounting hardware for these bags.

 

[Andy]

The original ignition contributed to unsettled running off-idle up to mid range when it switches from minimum to maximum advance. Changing the ignition system is the best tune up you can do.
The steering head uses two tapered bearings and is very sensitive to adjustment and wear, replacing the bearings will probably help, as will using a non-tapered top bearing.
The instruments are prone to issues, but I’ve not had mine fail except when a plug had fallen off the back. The rev counter waves like a luffing sail, that’s normal, although on mine I found the balance weight on the short end of the needle was loose, re-gluing it helped a lot.
They’re no fun on a bumpy road, seems like the whole fairing is going to fall off. Piet(?) talked about replacing the central silentbloc mounting which sounds like a good idea.
The screen is usually very good at keeping you out of the wind, unless you’re very tall or using the higher executive bars.
Adjust the camchain certainly, but don’t forget to check/replace the primary chains and clutch cush rubbers, helps a lot with noise.
Phew, did I miss anything..? This is based on experience by the way, not necessarily expertise

 

[Alzero]

If you put a few holes into the bottom of the windscreen at the front above the headlight to relieve the pressure the buffeting will completely stop. Mine had a pocket of still air like a BMW RT. This was using the higher Executive handlebars. Great sport tourer.

 

[Vince]

The best bit of long-term ownership is fixing stuff to suit your needs; it's great fun as well.

 

[IAG]

At this point I would like any information I can find about mounting hardware for these bags.

What are you looking for-more pics?

 

[Rob]

The oil temp guage sender is at the back of the crankcase and the oil there is seldom warm enough to generate a reading.
The fuel sender isn't particularly accurate. Check the three wires are connected at the molex connector under the front nearside of the tank.

 

[Magoo]

What are you looking for-more pics?

That would be great! I have the parts diagram and part number list thanks to Piet
but some pics of the mounted parts and a pic of all needed mounting parts would be very helpful.
And of course I am open to hearing from anyone who has the needed parts available for sale.

 

[Magoo]

The oil temp guage sender is at the back of the crankcase and the oil there is seldom warm enough to generate a reading.
The fuel sender isn't particularly accurate. Check the three wires are connected at the molex connector under the front nearside of the tank.

It had three wires coming from the fuel sending unit but no terminal block so I looked at the wiring diagram and it was inconclusive comparing it to what I was looking at.
I put almost two gallons in the tank for test riding. I suppose that might not be enough to make the gauge register. I’m gonna try moving the wires around and see if I get a different result.

 

[Magoo]

The original ignition contributed to unsettled running off-idle up to mid range when it switches from minimum to maximum advance. Changing the ignition system is the best tune up you can do.
The steering head uses two tapered bearings and is very sensitive to adjustment and wear, replacing the bearings will probably help, as will using a non-tapered top bearing.
The instruments are prone to issues, but I’ve not had mine fail except when a plug had fallen off the back. The rev counter waves like a luffing sail, that’s normal, although on mine I found the balance weight on the short end of the needle was loose, re-gluing it helped a lot.
They’re no fun on a bumpy road, seems like the whole fairing is going to fall off. Piet(?) talked about replacing the central silentbloc mounting which sounds like a good idea.
The screen is usually very good at keeping you out of the wind, unless you’re very tall or using the higher executive bars.
Adjust the camchain certainly, but don’t forget to check/replace the primary chains and clutch cush rubbers, helps a lot with noise.
Phew, did I miss anything..? This is based on experience by the way, not necessarily expertise

After the shakedown run I put it back on the lift to adjust the cam chain tensioner.
Then I noticed that there was considerable rattle seemingly coming from the primary and the clutch side. I wish I had known that when I replaced the clutch slave.

How do I address this? I’m doubtful that there is adjustment on the primary and is the new cush rubber available for the clutch?

I will say that the clutch engages smoothly although the friction zone comes in a bit later at the lever than I would prefer.

New chain and sprockets on this bike and a new set of Michelins so the driveline is smooth.

I took a very close look at the “silent block”
and it seemed that the rubber was still in good shape and certainly didn’t have any slop. The clamp was not as tight as I would have liked so I spread it open and added some shim stock to the barrel and clamped it down tight.

 

[sfcpiet]

Primary drive rattle can be caused by worn/hardened/shrunk cush drive rubbers, worn/loose chain, loose Jesus nut, loose clutch hub, worn clutch basket splines, a combination of any of the beforementioned... has nought to do with the slave cylinder. The Mk II/120 clutch also has the hindmost plates doubled and tensioned against another to counter plate rattle within the basket. Many see this as a superfluous measure, usually drowned out by far too loud exhausts anyway. The clutch sprocket also carries an o-ring on either side to counter rattles, often overseen. The "spider" that locates the outer end of the mainshaft is also often loose, the fixing screws should get a drop of Loctite upon assembly.

No amount of tightening at the silentbloc mount will stop the fairing wobble, swap it out for an alloy bar in the same dimensions, wobble disappears without further issues. Tank supporting rubbers should be in good condition and properly positioned to reduce tank movement to a minimum.

Fuel gauge sender is often rusted out. The main body comprises of 3 parts that are riveted together, these rivets often impair conductivity causing the sender to fail. Should find continuity from the base to the steel cover plate of the resistor housing. Either fit a new sender or drill out the rivets, clean off any rust and replace with M3 screws and nuts, repaired one just yesterday. Doesn't make the gauge any more accurate though, that requires a lot of tweaking and patience, but it can be done. Green wire goes to sender body, red and red/black power the gauge needle and reserve light. Connect the green to either of the others and you should get a reaction at the gauge, with ignition switched on of course.

Oil temp sender is located at the bottom of the crankcase, occupying the spot where the neutral switch was fitted in the 180° models. 120° neutral switch is under the RH sprocket cover.

piet

 

[chrisk]

The bad:
This thing was a rattling SOB on the dirt road. I couldn’t have been more particular putting all of the fairing and instrument bracket and such together but it has some serious rattles.

One of our members, Legs, changed his RGS’ (which he’d ridden over 250,000klm, so knew the bike inside out) fork springs, took it for a spin and could hear what he believed to be the new springs rattling in the tubes over rough surfaces and was driving him crazy …. so he changed them back, but the rattles remained.

He was miffed and posted his woes here ….. after all that work he sheepishly he came back after he found the source of the racket over rough surfaces.

The fuel filler flap.

 

[IAG]

@Magoo - a few pics of the bracket assembly & additional hole location on the footpeg plate: