Re-torquing 4 inner cylinder head bolt nuts for 750 SF2?

[TeddyG]

Greetings again,
I need to re-torque the cylinder head bolt nuts on my 750SF2 after a 300 mile break in for a top end rebuild. The 4 outer nuts are accessible, and
the Green Book claims that a 17mm crow's foot will reach the 4 inner nuts. But the motor mount frame tabs are in the way, nor does it appear that reaching them thru the top of the frame rails is possible, even if the coil and breather tube is removed. It seems that the motor will have to be tilted forward once again, but please advise if I'm missing something here, thank you.

 

[piranha-bro2]

I cheat a little and estimate how much the middle nuts need to be retightened to match the outer ones that the torque wrench will reach. I have two 17mm ring spanners what have the notches in slightly different spots which allows me to get purchase and enough rotation to get the nuts torqued up. Others may have a far more professional method ... I'm just too lazy to tilt the motor and as longas the head is sealing, I'm happy.

I think I even ground the outer edge of the ring of one spanner to allow it to fit past the frame rails.

 

[MarnixSFC]

Almost half a century ago I welded this up from an old socket and 17mm ring spanner. Only important thing is to keep it in 90 degree angle from the torque wrench to not affect the amount of torque. Serves me to this day.

 

[Andy]

Another 10mm socket gone…

 

[Exmoor beast]

I use this Britool offset 11/16 , took me an age to find one and when you use it the nuts never need torquing

 

[CLEMTOG]

in that case you should back them off about 30degrees and re-torque, happens all the time on diesels especially big ones from the 50's and 60's as in 14 or 16 litre truck engines, where I cut a lot of my teeth as a teenager.
still practice that to this day, (50+ years later) if it just clicks, then I back off and go again, usually goes up a few more degrees, stretch bolts are far better, as in when building the motor, torque up then (using a degree protractor socket interupter, add the requisit number of degrees, and the no retorque needed.
CLEM

 

[TeddyG]

I saw no way of getting an open end wrench or crows foot past the mounting tabs, and didn't want to round off the nuts, so I tilted the motor which was easier the second time around

 

[Tippie]

in that case you should back them off about 30degrees and re-torque, happens all the time on diesels especially big ones from the 50's and 60's as in 14 or 16 litre truck engines, where I cut a lot of my teeth as a teenager.
still practice that to this day, (50+ years later) if it just clicks, then I back off and go again, usually goes up a few more degrees, stretch bolts are far better, as in when building the motor, torque up then (using a degree protractor socket interupter, add the requisit number of degrees, and the no retorque needed.
CLEM

Was the way I was taught to do it too, not as much as 30 deg though.

 

[martymoose]

Changed those spark plugs yet..........?

 

[MarnixSFC]

I use this Britool offset 11/16 , took me an age to find one and when you use it the nuts never need torquing

Goes well with my good old faithful torque wrench.

 

[CLEMTOG]

yeah you are right, not 30 degrees, but just enough to remove stiction, perhaps not even ten.
CLEM

 

[Exmoor beast]

Goes well with my good old faithful torque wrench.

in tool poker my royal flush beats your ace! I’ll be honest, I’ve only used the baby one on plastic tanks with threaded inserts . Big one for Ducati/ Honda / Triumph single sided swing arm rear axle and the middle one all the time. Stupid expensive but lovely.