Or how many ash trays hold coins these days. Lothar can you run that bit about draining the phone by me again re GPS. I was using the Cigarette plug to charge my phone with the navigator and speed camera alerts going on a 4 day run and it would gradually reduce charge. Thats a 12 volt cigarette to a mini USB plug cable connected continuously while the bike is going. Where does the 1200mAh come about.So doesn't the bike power continually top up the battery.
Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?
- Thread starter Paul LeClair
- Start date
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
12 volt is just the voltage at which the power goes into the cable, the question is how much amper is supplied and how much is needed to operate the cellphone.
F.e. my Galaxy S5 with the large display consumes a lot of battery power to operate, especially if you leave all options (GPS, WLAN, Bluetooth, GSM etc.) on. I had a 12 volt => USB adapter that only delivered 500mAh before and after 4 hours of driving with all options on and TomTom running, the mobile shut off due to lack of battery... (without the cable, it would have shut off within less than an hour...).
I got me a 1200mAh adapter and all is good now. For an iPad to load while you use GPS, GSM and all that stuff, you would propably need even 1500mAh or more.
an easy way of describing the difference between Volt and Ampere (if that is your question) is:
it is a bit like with water: if you fill your washbasin with water, this is your battery. you leave the water supply open but pull the plug to open the sink. constantly, the water pipe (your 12Volt supply) delivers water, but the reduction in the water tab (mAh) decides how much is delivered in what time.
Now - if your sink drains the water faster (your mobile consumes more ) than the water tab (the power adapter) delivers, your washbasin will be empty sooner or later. the bigger the sink is (more your GPS consumes), the faster. The lower the supply of water is due to the reduction in the water tab (power adapter), the sooner it will be empty.
does that work for you?
So - what you need to know is: what consumption in mAh does your GPS system have and what does your cable/Adapter supply.
If it comes from the same company, be sure its sufficient.
F.e. my Galaxy S5 with the large display consumes a lot of battery power to operate, especially if you leave all options (GPS, WLAN, Bluetooth, GSM etc.) on. I had a 12 volt => USB adapter that only delivered 500mAh before and after 4 hours of driving with all options on and TomTom running, the mobile shut off due to lack of battery... (without the cable, it would have shut off within less than an hour...).
I got me a 1200mAh adapter and all is good now. For an iPad to load while you use GPS, GSM and all that stuff, you would propably need even 1500mAh or more.
an easy way of describing the difference between Volt and Ampere (if that is your question) is:
it is a bit like with water: if you fill your washbasin with water, this is your battery. you leave the water supply open but pull the plug to open the sink. constantly, the water pipe (your 12Volt supply) delivers water, but the reduction in the water tab (mAh) decides how much is delivered in what time.
Now - if your sink drains the water faster (your mobile consumes more ) than the water tab (the power adapter) delivers, your washbasin will be empty sooner or later. the bigger the sink is (more your GPS consumes), the faster. The lower the supply of water is due to the reduction in the water tab (power adapter), the sooner it will be empty.
does that work for you?
So - what you need to know is: what consumption in mAh does your GPS system have and what does your cable/Adapter supply.
If it comes from the same company, be sure its sufficient.
R
Reggie3cl
Guest
GPSs are known to drain batteries, so just remember to pull the plug when you aren't on the move- cigarette lighter sockets are often permanently live. On my GS, mine is in a proper cradle with power feed taken from the tail light circuit. Probably not a good idea to leave it on the bike anyhow...
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
Off to the Adelaide toy run shortly. Got a big yellow Tonka truck strapped to the big yellow peril. :-[
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
If your Tonka truck is big enough you could use it as a sidecar
hooksey
Hero member
- Location
- Vic , Australia
hooksey
Hero member
- Location
- Vic , Australia
D
Davo
Guest
I fitted one of these http://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-socket-kit-36-harness/158, with one of these dual USB plugs to suit http://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-plug-to-dual-usb-adapter-21a/585. Plus with the battery charger cable http://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-straight-plug-to-sae-battery-charging-cable/644 it is simple to plug the bike into the battery tender/charger.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Looks good, 2.1Ah is more than any device should consume, but with 2 USB ports, you can charge the mobile and the GPS potentially at the same time (if your battery does not get drained... 
)
)
71Laverda750SF
Hero member
- Location
- The Sunshine State
Disassembled one of the front brake calipers on the 1200 that was leaking, expecting to find a leak around the pucks but they were fine. Looks like the leak is coming from the o-ring for the two halves. Very strange as the o-ring looked fine and was rebuilt not so long ago. Tomorrow it will be rebuild and put it back on and see how long it will last.
Clay
Clay
That happened when I was riding Brett's RGS, fine at 60 and 100 but at 80 there was a strong oscillation or sideways pulsing in the bars and take you hands off and it became an impressing wobble.It took a fairly strong hold to stop it.Gave me a head ache after about an hour of this happening in the 80k stretch past the Pickton road next to the rail lines. He tells me it was fixed with a new tyre.Don't remember what warn tyre or how warn it was to caused it or what tyre fixed it.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
How much is left of your tyres?
My Jota (and Ducati, which is usually very stable) both do that when the tyres are worn. Especially if the back tyre is worn flat in the middle from too much straight road riding. A new set of tyres always fixes it.
My Jota (and Ducati, which is usually very stable) both do that when the tyres are worn. Especially if the back tyre is worn flat in the middle from too much straight road riding. A new set of tyres always fixes it.
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
Wheel alignment.
blab
Hero member
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
If your rear wheel is 20mm out of line with the front, you gonna have trouble.
Dingocooke
Senior member
- Location
- England
Of all the bikes, I've had, the most susceptible to tyres have been my triples and my Commando.
My first 3CE, back in the very late 70's early 80's when I was almost 11 stone wet through, would go into a tank slapper at 120-125 all the time, until I had enough money to get rid of the worn TT100's and fit Red Arrows (remember them?) they it was fine, or so I thought; but like all triangular tyres, they wore to a flattened round shape, and then the tank slappers came back!
Rounder profile tyres like Phantoms and road runners were much better though.
I think back then a lot of us bought new tyres and thought we'd cured the wobbles, until they wore (I can remember fitting red arrows to my Z1, and marvelling at the transformation, not for long though, roadrunners cured it completely)
Even worn out TT100's were fine on my 3CE with a pillion though, stable as a rock flat in top, so was there some geometry or harmonics at play too??
I would agree with other posters, worn tyres, wheel alignment, but also wheel balance; my 3CE was on wire wheels and they always balanced up fine (old school with plumbers solder and a chalk line)
My first Jota had small web wheels, and the front needed a lot of weight to get it balanced, or it shook the bars at higher speeds; the second time I had the tyre off, I tried to balance it bare; it was well over 100g out!
My first 3CE, back in the very late 70's early 80's when I was almost 11 stone wet through, would go into a tank slapper at 120-125 all the time, until I had enough money to get rid of the worn TT100's and fit Red Arrows (remember them?) they it was fine, or so I thought; but like all triangular tyres, they wore to a flattened round shape, and then the tank slappers came back!
Rounder profile tyres like Phantoms and road runners were much better though.
I think back then a lot of us bought new tyres and thought we'd cured the wobbles, until they wore (I can remember fitting red arrows to my Z1, and marvelling at the transformation, not for long though, roadrunners cured it completely)
Even worn out TT100's were fine on my 3CE with a pillion though, stable as a rock flat in top, so was there some geometry or harmonics at play too??
I would agree with other posters, worn tyres, wheel alignment, but also wheel balance; my 3CE was on wire wheels and they always balanced up fine (old school with plumbers solder and a chalk line)
My first Jota had small web wheels, and the front needed a lot of weight to get it balanced, or it shook the bars at higher speeds; the second time I had the tyre off, I tried to balance it bare; it was well over 100g out!
D
Davo
Guest
Time for a reminder then eh.