Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Stefan, after the Corsa with Maxton front, YSS rear and POP with Maxton front and Wilbers monoshock rear yours was always going to be more basic.
It would have been interesting to have had time to go over the whole bike in detail.
I'm sure that with a few simple adjustments it will work better for you.
 
Grant, strangely enough I never noticed it weaving 3yrs ago when I visited you. But back then I started the tour with only 200km riding experience after full resto, and had most of that trip a big tankbag in front of me. It was much later that I noticed it, probably just a small thing as you say. Bike is sensitive to tire pressure, will go down to 36/39 psi, at higher pressures it seems to get worse again.

@Lothar: PM sent.
 
Still using BT45s?
They do like higher pressures, not lower.
Wear pattern on the tyres? Front more worn at the sides than the middle? Rear squared off?
Swing arm spindle tight enough?
Swing arm full of grease?
Wheels aligned?
Fork oil level correct?

My money is on the tyre pressures though.
 
Mine was weaving a bit recently, I hadn't noticed the left shock was leaking oil. Only inside the spring and mainly close to the wheel and slowly if that makes sense.It also had a clunking if you lifted the rear of the bike. Had the shocks rebuilt and the suspension bloke found a small internal bit had broken. He said he had found similar in a few Harleys running Icons and put it down to vibration being the cause. I also use a big tank bag a lot and was going to do some experimenting with and without it but since the shocks were rebuilt its rock steady. BTW the broken bits would not cause the shock to come apart so isn't dangerous I was told.Anyway try upping the shock damping is easy to try.I also added a washer on each side of the rubber mount the same size as the internal metal bit to add a gap so the rubber bit doesn't drag so much and allows easier pivoting, yes Piet I tightened it up nice a tight. I also did the tightening with someone sitting on the bike re Brett and Terry's suggestion Haven't tried it while riding but the rear does move much easier now.



 
Not mine but a great day up at grandads shed today. Wired in his new tacho on the monty race bike and fixed RADs indicators and taillight, well kludged it with another wire rather than fixed......that wiring loom is a freaking nightmare! Thanks to dad taxi duties managed to escape before grandad was legless or it could have gotten messy!!! :)
 
Took the RGS track bike out for a spin. Was all going well until it died suddenly. Some electrical fault that I didn't have the tools to diagnose on the side of the road. Everything seems to be working except the ignition. Had to organise a trailer to get home. Will have a look at it tomorrow.
 
Had the same happen on the LeMon 300km from home. After checking all the 30+ year old original wiring it turned out to be a loose grub screw on the Sacshe control box.  >:(

Quick tighten and has run faultlessly since.
 
Give that man a cigar. South pole magnet is missing. No sign of it in the ignition case. Must have fallen in the dirt when I took the ignition cover off on the side of the road. Bike was on the side stand at the time so leaning over that way.
 
Dellortoman said:
Give that man a cigar. South pole magnet is missing. No sign of it in the ignition case. Must have fallen in the dirt when I took the ignition cover off on the side of the road. Bike was on the side stand at the time so leaning over that way.
Click to expand...

I would bet your battery is flat too!! :(
 
Finished the heated grips install on the RGS, pleased with the result, very unobtrusive but they work a treat. http://heatdemon.com/collections/motorcycle-grip-heaters  I think the kit should come with a fuse (I added one) and I substituted proper connections for the 'scotchblock' ones supplied, as well as wiring in a dedicated feed via a relay but perhaps that's me being pernickerty.

Plan to check the valves this afternoon.  Won't be doing anything if they're out though- Keith is much better than me at that job.

Only thing is now trying to scare up the bunce for a new set of adjustable rebound Falcon shocks to replace the shagged S&Ws that are currently keeping the tyre from hitting the mudguard.
 
Reggie3cl said:
Finished the heated grips install on the RGS, pleased with the result, very unobtrusive but they work a treat. http://heatdemon.com/collections/motorcycle-grip-heaters  I think the kit should come with a fuse (I added one) and I substituted proper connections for the 'scotchblock' ones supplied, as well as wiring in a dedicated feed via a relay but perhaps that's me being pernickerty.
Click to expand...

Reggie,

I bought a Heat Demon kit with the intention of fitting it to the RGS, but came across unexpected obstacles regarding the wiring.  Hooked it all up according to tne manual, but did not want to work.  Haven't been bothered to look into it any further though...  Did yours work without hitches?  System still appeals because of the unobtrusive and clean installation.

piet
 
Hi Piet

Yep, came on straight away, although as I said, my wiring differs from what came with the instructions.

I took the main power feed directly from the battery via a 25A mini relay controlled by a spur off the pilot light.  The main feed went to the centre connector of the three way handlebar switch.

I then shortened the wires from the grip heaters.  I made up two connecting wires for the high and low settings- spades at the switch end and a double jap bullet socket at the other.  I ran a wire to one of the main earth points on the bike and fitted another double bullet socket to the other end so that left me with three double sockets poking out near the fairing mount.  I then put bullets on the red (x2), white(x2) and blue(x2) wires and plugged it all in- red to earth, blue to high and white to low (IIRC!).  Sounds like a bit of a faff (and it was) but it means no nasty Scotchblocks (or whatever those connector things are called that you clamp over a wire) and of course the grips cannot be switched on if the bike is turned off.

Throttle side:

P1010030.jpg


Clutch side and switch under clutch perch:

P1010032.jpg


I don't have the connectors or crimping tool to deal with those ultra thin wires so I soldered standard 1mm squared wires on to the ends of the thin wires and sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink- you can see this in the photos.  I tied up the wiring to a self adhesive cable saddle mount stuck to the inside of the inner fairing.

Cable bundle and relay plate- I soldered black wires on to the ends of the red grip earth wire to match the black earth from the bike:

P1010033.jpg


I didn't like the idea of tapping into a +ve feed directly without a relay- I've got a small plate under the fairing with space for the three relays I've fitted so far to the bike- been meaning to fit one for the horn- might do that before the fairing goes back on.
 
Thanks Reggie.

I have the kit with the heater elements in the handlebar itself and the 5-stage controller that replaces the hydraulic lever clamp, looks very integrated, not like an after-thought.  Will have a longer look into it soon.

piet
 
Ah, I see.  Can't use that one myself as Keith welded in inserts inside the bars to fit the bar end weights.
 
The switches are from a Suzuki SRAD (I think) complete with choke lever.  The brake and clutch master cylinders are off a Honda Firestorm with the standard adjustable levers.  Dunno if that lot would fit with the standard bar pad, but that was sold long ago
 
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