Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

SimonR501 said:
I have not tried it, but perhaps upload it to the 'Gallery'
Done
Jota_120_Wiring_Diag.pdf
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I'm awfy glad it's not just me that gets baffled trying to figure out switch conversions - tried to suss it out a couple of years back, got distracted and finally revisited my notes tonight.

Still doesn't make any sense to me that if I'm replacing a switch cluster with a more modern one that does the same things (horn, indicators, dip/main, headlights/side/off & flash) then why the hell do they have different numbers of wires?

Then on t'other side (kill & starter) the old ND has 3 wires & the Honda replacement has 4 but I think that's only an extra earth...
 
sfc1000uk said:
I'm awfy glad it's not just me that gets baffled trying to figure out switch conversions - tried to suss it out a couple of years back, got distracted and finally revisited my notes tonight.

Still doesn't make any sense to me that if I'm replacing a switch cluster with a more modern one that does the same things (horn, indicators, dip/main, headlights/side/off & flash) then why the hell do they have different numbers of wires?

Then on t'other side (kill & starter) the old ND has 3 wires & the Honda replacement has 4 but I think that's only an extra earth...
Click to expand...

'cos modern bikes no longer rely on the steering bearings and brake/clutch/throttle cables to cater for ground connections to the frame.  Just one extra wire and the entire system, especially the horn, is more reliable.  The ND switchgear actually has a ground wire provided, Laverda just did not use it!  (black/white from the LH switch block)

piet
 
Kind of Laverda related, a fellow CLQ member was the pilot on the plane from Melbourne to Sydney on which I was last night. Lousy landing, probably thought he was on his RGS......
 
sfcpiet said:
'cos modern bikes no longer rely on the steering bearings and brake/clutch/throttle cables to cater for ground connections to the frame.  Just one extra wire and the entire system, especially the horn, is more reliable.  The ND switchgear actually has a ground wire provided, Laverda just did not use it!  (black/white from the LH switch block)

piet
Click to expand...

both switches came with 9 wire connector blocks, the ND one from the SFC also has 2 bullet connectors...

I think this weekends task is to finally figure out what maps to what and, assuming I have the right connectors, do the swap
 
drikko said:
Kind of Laverda related, a fellow CLQ member was the pilot on the plane from Melbourne to Sydney on which I was last night. Lousy landing, probably thought he was on his RGS......






cause he flys hyundis of the sky-boeing for me only
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drikko said:
Kind of Laverda related, a fellow CLQ member was the pilot on the plane from Melbourne to Sydney on which I was last night. Lousy landing, probably thought he was on his RGS......
Click to expand...

I flew in from Sydney last night .............. the pilot must have riden a moped! There was a pilot for the same airline in the seat oposite me, probably flying home after a shift, even he did a double take when we hit the ground. :o
We dropped into some tight left and righthanders along the runway ...........  :o they were always straight when I last looked.
 
Changed the throttle cable on the SF2. Didn't need to, only the chrome had gone. Getting the cables back in the slides with those springs is a shit of a job.
Surgical clamps on the cable to hold the spring back comes in handy.
Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
Changed the throttle cable on the SF2. Didn't need to only the chrome had gone. Getting the cables back in the slides with those springs is a shit of a job.
Surgical clamps on the cable to hold the spring back comes in handy.
Paul
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Ahhh Paul , thought that would be a doddle for a bloke that dicks around with points all the time  ;)
Hooksey
 
sfc1000uk said:
both switches came with 9 wire connector blocks, the ND one from the SFC also has 2 bullet connectors...

I think this weekends task is to finally figure out what maps to what and, assuming I have the right connectors, do the swap
Click to expand...

Bob,

The bullet connectors are for the extra charging when lights are switched on.  When lights are activated, the 3rd alternator phase kicks in.  This phase takes a detour through the light switch before returning to the regulator.

piet
 
chrisk said:
I flew in from Sydney last night .............. the pilot must have riden a moped! There was a pilot for the same airline in the seat oposite me, probably flying home after a shift, even he did a double take when we hit the ground. :o
We dropped into some tight left and righthanders along the runway ...........  :o they were always straight when I last looked.
Click to expand...

There is a saying " Any landing you walk away from was a good landing"  ;)

If the runway is wet the pilot will often land hard to break the water film ...A greased landing in wet conditions is prone to aquaplaning... :o
 
sfcpiet said:
Bob,

The bullet connectors are for the extra charging when lights are switched on.  When lights are activated, the 3rd alternator phase kicks in.  This phase takes a detour through the light switch before returning to the regulator.

piet
Click to expand...

When I've used an early switch on S2 motors - I use a small relay that works when the rear light is on  and joins the relevant wires from the alternator - will do this again when I replace S1 BTZ motor in my Saxon/Motodd with an RGS unit - Regards - Phil
 
phil37 said:
When I've used an early switch on S2 motors - I use a small relay that works when the rear light is on  and joins the relevant wires from the alternator - will do this again when I replace S1 BTZ motor in my Saxon/Motodd with an RGS unit - Regards - Phil
Click to expand...

I'm guessing that means there's a good reason I shouldn't just connect the permanently connect the relevant alternator wires and run the 3rd phase all the time?

As you can probably guess I'm a little vague about this electricity stuff, christ knows how I passed physics at school
 
Probably full alternator output exceeds the continuous rating of the regulator when some load isn't being dumped via the headlight.  Not an issue if you always ride with lights on...
 
Rob said:
Probably full alternator output exceeds the continuous rating of the regulator when some load isn't being dumped via the headlight.  Not an issue if you always ride with lights on...
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Exactly.

Researching the connections for Reggies switches revealed US market bikes did not have this feature.  Mandatory daytime lights in the '80s?  I could imagine that these bikes had the light switch blocked, ie, permanent lighting.

piet
 
Drained the carbs on the RGS and the SFC, both of which have run recently.
Connected the two petrol taps on each tank together with a single piece of hose, so it doesn't matter if the taps leak.
Disconnected batteries.

Tomorrow I'm off to hospital to get my RH landing gear repaired, so won't be able to ride for a few weeks. Bugger... :-X

Steve
 
sfcpiet said:
Exactly.

Researching the connections for Reggies switches revealed US market bikes did not have this feature.  Mandatory daytime lights in the '80s?  I could imagine that these bikes had the light switch blocked, ie, permanent lighting.

piet
Click to expand...

Hmm, so as I've got relays in for the headlights I could just connect this to the relay rather than have it running through the switch block?

How do you best route it with replacement switches?

I think I'd better making a point of learning how the smoke in my wiring works  :o
 
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