Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Dellortoman said:
It's always useful to learn how to weld, but there are other ways to remove studs. Usual way to is to double-nut them. If the threads are fucked or the stud is broken, try using a small pipe wrench on the stump. You can also buy a stud extractor tool like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/231423350298?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps but I've never found it necessary. The double-nut technique has always worked for me.
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No double nut because not enough thread. There's only about 5 to 8 mm of it when it's not buggered.
No extractor tool because the whole stud sticking out of the head is 10 mm at the most.
Paul
 
what about using 2 half height nuts? might just have enough thread length on the stud to get them on and tight.
 
I gave up on the studs.
I forgot to mention that the head is on the engine and the engine in the bike. With the head off, it would be simpler.
I tried the double nut trick but it just further strips what little thread is left at the end of the stud.
So I stopped, hoping to be able to tighten down the tappet covers.
The whole lot is coming to bits in two years time when I retire anyway. I don't want to take the head off now because I'll be in a "whilst I'm at it" situation on an engine with over 100 000 km.

Tried a bit of arc welding. I've had a nut and bolt holding the mobile point plate for a couple of years since the original thread in the backplate is gone and the metal there too thin to tap. That implies I can't really tighten it down with the backplate on the bike. So I welded up the head of the screw behind the back plate. Fine.

Then I tried welding an 8 mm nut on it's bolt. Welded up ok but half melted the nut. Too many amps on the very old welder I've been loaned. Too much approximation to tackle the 6 mm studs in the head.
Son n?2 who did a years welding class at school in Oregon said: use a Mig. He's probably right, easier for a first timer. Mig on shopping list.

Fingers crossed that tappet covers will tighten down again  8)

Took the felt oiling pad off the points plate and replaced the old worn felt with brand new orange one!
Points need changing again. Second time in 100 000 km. Will need to rumage through my parts. I'd bought ten sets of Bosch points years ago and should have some left.

Armour pipes fit perfectly into the head. Hopefully, next weekend, bike is running again so I can focus on the race bike.

Paul
 
Pure class.
Show and go.

Basic conversion is ? 150 + VAT.
If it's for show purposes, I can put a window in the points cover for an extra ? 450 + VAT.

Book now, waiting list is growing.

Paul

 

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Checked tappets on the SF2. All fine after 8000 km, 6000 of which in town.
Tappet covers buttoned down again luckily.

I'll set timing and carbs next weekend and get new exhausts on if I can find someone to machine the collars for 1/2 rings.

Timing will be set static and carb synch with a finger down the carb throat. Has worked for me for over 20 years.

People who complicate 750 setup have complicated minds.

Engines are simple.

Paul
 
Wiring in relays for headlights, new bracket and new wiring for rear indicators and finishing off the rear mudguard.
 

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Stripped and rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder and changed all fluids and oil ready for MOT and sale of my trusty RGS1000.
 

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3C was on rest during last 2 months, odometer passed away, so gauges have been off for overhaul. We have a guy over here in Germany who is taking care of those NDs, and he has done a great job on mine. They arrived back last week, looking nice with their new caps and glasses. Kept the old dials, though, love that little bit of patina.
Not today (weather is shite), but yesterday gauges went back onto the bike. As already expected, the 3C started first hit of the button. Nothing like draining carbs or battery charging required. Enjoyed a long and really refreshing spin right away. Everyday' BS immediately off the table when riding the 3C, really missed that sound and feel during past weeks. Dampening of instruments highly improved after overhaul, thought it was okay before, learned now it wasn't...speedo readings spot on, should take them for granted by now with respect to my licence . :D

Regards,
Stefan

 
Not today but over the last 5 days; Finished wiring in Reds new ignition system, made whole new wiring loom (old one had twin core speaker cable in it! ), finished installing throttle cables on new RS36's and Reds carb conversion kit, installed Damn EZ clutch actuator and new cable.... just waiting for new rotors, GPS speedo and headlamp bracket...almost done in time for summer.... oh..maybe next summer :(
But finally feels like I'm getting progress!
 
Well tonight I took my Spaniard drummer out for her second ride after retensioning the head and sorting a minor oil leak she is a delight
 

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How much time and money spent on it and it' wears purple fuel lines...
Saying that I am thinking of switching to silicone fuel lines as I am fed up fighting with rock hard fuel lines throughout this winter.
 
Never got the point of Cavis Benz fuel line, expensive and goes rock hard within a year. This stuff changes color from blue to green after a while, but stays soft and flexible. Nice souvenir from the States....

https://www.denniskirk.com/parts-unlimited/5-16-in-i-d-blue-polyurethane-fuel-lines.p185007.prd/185007.sku
 
Polished up the series 2 Jota, and wheeled out it's unrestored sister.
Good before and after shots.



 
Recharged the battery, opened the taps and started it up. RRROOOAAAARRRRRR!!!
What a magnificent sound ;)
A small boy and his mother passed nearby, and he pulled strongly in his mothers hand to go over and have a look. That was at idle.
okay, I said, mind his ears and I gave "tiny" bit of throttle, his eyes went reallt big, and he simply lost his jar onto the floor and smiled from ear to ear.
A BMW couple passed by, and they looked really frightened, ha ha ;)

Job done ;)

Kind regards,
Jacques.
 
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