Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Brett said:
Rode it !!!! :D
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Steady on! ;-)

For myself, can't ride (grrrrrr!) until Wednesday for medical reasons (roll on Wednesday!) so I'm stripping 40 years of accumulated rust, paint and shite off some parts with a view to restoring them.

Some Laverda bits, some 70s Honda bits (hens teeth).

Laverda bits may be obscenely expensive sometimes, but at least they're available.

H.

 
Spent an interesting afternoon yesterday.
On all fours under the SF2 to ascertain if oil coming from sump plate was due to it being split. It is, split around 3 of the studs and oil coming down from there.
I also noticed that the bottom of the primary gasket was oozing oil as was the slipper tensionner screw and the selector cover gasket.
Oh oh, crankcase pressurising?
I then did something I didn't dare do thinking it would get me worried: I checked compression to make sure that bores and rings were ok. I was very surprised: 160 PSI one side, 170 on the other. That on an engine on original bores and pistons, with over 100 000 km and traces of nipping up on one bore when I stripped it back in the 80s on purchase.
Next, I took off the breather pipe and checked that the ball was free, it was.
Conclusion, maybe reusing gaskets 8 or 10 times is excessive  :D

Next, went stutter hunting. Carbs out, cleaned and blown. Unleaded tastes awful.
Took the taps out of the tank expecting to find loads of rust. Nothing very undue. Very fine rust everywhere.

Took the bike out for a 60 km stroll into Flanders for ham-bread and beer today. Stutter gone at first, it progressively crept back. Will check the ignition side of things, otherwise conclusion is that the bike is swallowing micro rust particles, in which case, either put filters into my original 1973 Cavis fuel lines which would send the value of the bike plumeting, or coat the inside of the tank.

Ciao tutti
Paul
 
Paul, rust sounds a lot like my Honda CB1000 when I got it, fine rust everywhere. I cannot recommend highly enough Evapo-Rust to get rid of the rust. I's a chelating agent that converts the Fe2O3 back to metallic iron, so there's no removal of any steel. Let it sit for 24-48 hours, drain off the liquid (keep it. it's usable quite a few times), give it a good rinse, then air dry with a hot air gun. You'll probably have flakes of loose converted rust when you shake it, so toss in a good handful of drywall screws, tape up the holes, and shake it thoroughly for as long as you can. If you (or a friend) have a concrete mixer pack it VERY well with padded cloths and bubble wrap and let it turn for several hours.
Tip out the screws, you'll probably have a lot of loose grey particles of converted rust. Rinse with hose as thoroughly as possible then dry quickly (to minimise formation of new rust). Coat with your sealer of choice, if you can get it Caswell's Epoxy Gas tank Sealer is nothing short of fantastic (http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/new-category-24/). The stuff I used is still rock hard and crystal clear after 4 years, there is no rust whatsoever in my tank. I have no affiliation with the company but try to pass on a strong recommendation on an excellent product whenever I can.

Ken
 
I took advice from the forum ,put a 19 tooth on the front and a 40 on the rear ,it seems to cruise at lower revs also it seems a lot smoother ,not owned the bike long but it would seem a worthwhile mod ,got the front sprocket from motalia ,(he may have more ) and the rear from sprockets unlimited ,chain came from andy
dave
 
merlin said:
I took advice from the forum ,put a 19 tooth on the front and a 40 on the rear ,it seems to cruise at lower revs also it seems a lot smoother ,not owned the bike long but it would seem a worthwhile mod ,got the front sprocket from motalia ,(he may have more ) and the rear from sprockets unlimited ,chain came from andy
dave
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Stock ratio for the #630 chain is 16/34, 2.125:1.  Stock #530 ratio is 19/40, 2.105:1.  The difference is negligable, seriously doubt it woud show on the tach...

The main thing I noticed when I swapped the #630 RGS chain for a #530 item was the normal "Ahhhh..." I always experience after changing out knackered chains and sprockets.  Don't see much advantage other than the weight saving, and negating the tendency of the #630 chain to wear prematurely, causing a not insignificant power loss.  The smaller pitch of the #530 allows it to run a bit smoother than the heavier #630, at least as long as it is fine condition.

piet
 
: i am a very noughty boy; I have been driving my laverda today and yesterday and the day before, and i will drive my laverda tomorrow and the day after tomorrow and untill i die if its possible, because my laverda was build to be driving and it always starts and are willing to be driving.
 
Enjoyed a fantastic 140km ride on the RGS early this morning, back home for breakfast. Not had the chance to ride it for at least six weeks as I've been trying to rack up a few miles on the Jota, so great fun to be out on the old faithful - love it!😎
 
Got the re-chromed rear springs etc back yesterday, so completed the rebuild of the rear shocks on the 3C project.

Just a trial fitting on the bike - some more mods to the swingarm yet before its finished.
 

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Hi Maurice, you have eagle eyes!

Actually, the bodies are Sebac  :o  I found that all the Ceriani springs etc fit straight on them.

They are 360mm eye to eye (ie nearer to a 1000 than a 750) - but that is actually perfect as the 3C has a 750SFC rear subframe.  The geometry works out very well - I'm dropping the forks very slightly as well to keep it even.

They are also a little less hard-damped than Cerianis so give a nicer ride which is a bonus :D

Photo attached of the frame - as you can see it is a lot different now to the original 3C
 

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Ventodue said:
Hmmm ...  ???

Or    :o  :o :-X :-*
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Yes, there does seem to be a valid reason for using new gaskets upon re-assembly... not only for pulling notes from customers' wallets, as some may suspect! :D

piet
 
padlock said:
Mine were a bunch of complete arse. took me feckin ages. happy with end result though,

  FFF
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FFF, here's what I whipped up.
880SFCK%20oil%20cooler%20mounts_zps8kfznuji.jpg

 
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