Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Sure the front wheel is balanced?
Any pulsing of front brake lever when using the brake?
I had this on the Corsa initially, wheel would wobble back and forth under braking.
The front GSXR wheel needs some machining to fit. Mine was out a smidge, now rectified.
 
Yeah, fitted emulators to the 180.  Worked pretty well, although steepening the angle of the forks a little by lopping 25mm off their length helped their action too.  I think a standard 180 looks like a chopper and we know how well the forks work on those...  Basically I think the Marzo forks are a bit crap- this is a separate issue to the wobble though.  I also need a set of rear shocks that are about 10mm longer than standard to further tip the bike forward to get the stance I want.

I think the wheels are pretty balanced- the wobble happens at low speeds- and have no pulsing on the brakes, they just bang back and forth due to ripples on the road.  It's interesting to watch the GS's suspension just follow every ripple at any speed, whereas the RGS only starts working at high speed.

I'm going to try to get out and experiment with the tyre pressures, if that doesn't help I'll strip the forks and see if I can mess with the air gap and spring preload to make it better.

The alternative is maybe a set of forks of a K100RS 16V (17" wheel?) or similar which are obviously later, fatter and better than the o/e stuff, but that means ???s which I don't have atm ::)
 
Reggie3cl said:
It's interesting to watch the GS's suspension just follow every ripple at any speed, whereas the RGS only starts working at high speed.

Just out of interest, what weight of fork oil are you running?  I had similar feeling in my first Jota's forks until I moved down from 10 weight to 7.5 weight.  Front end finally started to feel compliant and follow the road then.
You probably ride a lot faster than me so it might not work as well as it did for me  :-[  but its cheaper than a new pair of forks.
Chris
 
Yes, sounds lie the forks are oo stiff, if they only start working properly at speed.
Less oil (as you have overfilled them) and lighter weight might help.
Might be too rigid and they are bumping over slow speed bumps rather than absorbing them.
 
I used 10W oil.  Has to be worth trying lighter oil to get a better action, I agree.  'Course that's where emulators score because they can be set to have light compression damping with the oil viscosity mostly controlling the rebound (IIRC)

I dunno if I have overfilled them as I've lost the note I made of how much oil I put in 'em when I flushed them out and fitted the Wilbers springs. 

You probably ride a lot faster than me so it might not work as well as it did for me

I ride like the aged gent I am...

Last time I experienced a bad front end wobble that wasn't speed related was on an R80 with an RS fairing and a very worn front tyre.  Lock to lock tankslapper at 30mph, I guess as a result of the tyre and the forks set up for the bike without the fairing.

Try holding the handlebars. Works for me

I need to be able to stick both arms out while making aeroplane noises occasionally...


 
Reggie3cl said:
I think it needs better forks.  Wonder if BMW K series ones fit?

Yes, Reggie. That's what I have on my RGS. 41 mm Showa forks from a K-series BMW.

Simplest option with the BMW front end is to use the BMW triple clamps and wheel because it's basically a bolt-on kit. You'll need to change the steering head bearings to the stock BMW items because it has a larger diameter central pivot tube. Bearings have the same OD so they'll fit into the RGS steering head. BMW steering head is a couple of mm longer than the RGS, so you'll need spacers under the bearings to get everything to fit nicely.

If using the Laverda triple clamps, they'll need to be bored for the larger BMW forks (not sure whether they have enough metal to still be structurally sound when bored though). The Laverda clamps space the forks a bit further apart than the BMW so if going this route you'll need to make a custom length axle for the Beeer forks.

As for steering geometry, if using K-series forks with bored Marzo triple clamps, you'll get about 5mm more trail because the BMW forks have the axle offset to the rear by that amount (for no reason I can fathom). A complete K-series front end transplant will result in about 5mm less trail than the standard Marzochhi front end because the Beemer clamps have about 10 mm more offset than the Marzo items. If you want the exact same trail as the original RGS, you'll need custom triple clamps.

The Beemer forks are longer than the Marzo, so will need to be slid up through the clamps a bit to preserve the RGS ride height.

I obviously like to do things the hard way because I opted to use the original RGS wheel with the BMW front end. Mainly because that's what I had. I thought it would look better anyway because it matches the rear wheel. That meant fitting different wheel bearings for the larger BMW axle, making a bunch of bearing and axle spacers, and making disk carriers with the correct offset for the Beemer caliper spacing. Note that the BMW uses 285mm diameter disks, which is an unusual size. If you want to use the RGS front wheel with original disks, you'll need to reduce the disk offset somehow (machine a bit off the carriers or the wheel), and make up some caliper adaptors to suit the disk diameter. That's in addition to changing the wheel bearing and spacers as mentioned above.

For a road bike, you'll need to work out how to drive the speedo. I dunno what arrangement the BMW wheel has because I don't have one. I fitted a cheapo magnetically oprated bicycle speedo. I don't really care if it works or not. It's just there to keep the roadworthy bloke happy.

Anyway, whatever you choose, it's all do-able. Some options more easily do-able than others.

Only problem at present is that I can't report on how well the K-series forks work with the RGS frame because the bike isn't quite finished. Hopefully in a few weeks ...

Cam
 
The K series speedos are electronic, runs off a toothed wheel on the back wheel so you'll need an electronic speedo of some sort. Not too hard to find on fleabay.

 
Removed all the BTZ bits and looms and roughed in the DMC2. The bike ran! I'm going to take the red power wire out of the loom that goes up to the coils and run it through the loom that goes to the connecting block under the tank. I'm want to go to switched power from the connecting block instead of from of the resistor connections (I assume that's why it runs in the coil loom) and use one of the resistor mounting points on the frame for the ground wire. I just have to decide where to mount the ecu, right now I have it temporarily mounted in the tailpiece wrapped in thick pieces of a water pipe insulating foam. Witt gives you plenty of wire to work with. This is fun! :D

Stu
 
It's not a good idea to put the DMC2 in the tail piece, especially wrapped in insulating foam. It needs cooling air.
When I bought my Jota, the previous owner had installed the DMC1 in the tail piece, wrapped in a piece of rag. It died from heat exhaustion shortly afterwards.
 
Thanks  D-man, never thought of that, I may mount it where the tool tray was then, make up some saddle brackets across the top frame rails or use the tray itself, or see if there's room where the BTZ units were mounted.

Stu
 
Ah, I had a feeling I didn't have the BMW forks idea all on my own.  Thanks for the info Cam.
 
Managed to get a few minutes to test the bike.  With the extra oil and the forks at 33/36 it felt pretty good but the wobble was still there.  At 36/40 the wobble was only really evident at low speeds, and putting a finger on the bars was enough to stop it.  Definite improvement, probably needs a bit more preload on the springs, but it's fine for now.
 
pf1 said:
Try holding the handlebars. Works for me  ;)
Soft bastards .....I dunno

Darned right! I'm happy to pilot a lot of bikes down hills, round corners, hands off the bars, it can be fun.  But not a Laverda triple, 180, 120, with whatever.....tried it.....too twitchy.

Reggie - Hold the fscking handlbars! Or ride yer BMW!
 
collected the crank for the motoplast from the mechanic who "shaved" away lots of kilos :D and brought it to my trusted crank-master...  :-X

opened the Jota as it had some whining noise coming from the primary only to find out that some stupid guy (me...) had fastened the chain tensioner to much so that a) the chains almost made their way through the material and b) lengthened themselves to a point I am not sure it would be good to re-use them...  >:( No replacement for both currently on hand, so have to wait until I get a parcel with the parts. Oh - and battery was drained (no wonder after almost a year with no running...).

Same on the 750 S Formula. First battery charger said "dead!", the c-Tek seems to be a bit more optimistic (3rd LED is on...). Hope I can make the tour tomorrow with at least the Zane.

What an ironic situation: from 4 bikes, the only one (again...!!) that might take me on a trip tomorrow is - the Zane...

cross your fingers!!  :-[
 
about 2/3 rds of the way through the riding season here, which typically wraps up mid October at the latest. Stepped back to deal with some maintenance and cleaning, been riding in so much heavy rain and muck that everything from my helmet/visor to my gloves to my riding gear to the bikes themselves were becoming unrecognizable. Spent several hours today cleaning and oiling and waxing and generally getting everything ready for the rest of the season.....

Paul LeClair
 
Spent some happy hours yesterday on the lathe doing a front wheel / bearing upgrade.  Made a new axle, spacers, bored out the receptacle in the wheel, made stepped top hat bearing carriers, pressed it all together, assembled and gave it a test.  Much more planted in the front end, no more loose feeling and I can really turn harder and it has noticeably less friction.

So that's the wheelbarrow fixed, maybe next weekend I can get onto the bikes?
 
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