Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

:)
I've copied other people on the forum who have had the bright idea of wrapping barrels and heads in clingfilm to keep them clean.  The chaincase is off the bike as it was knackered when I got it - it will be repaired - and the clearplastic keeps the crap off the clutch and chains. 

Chris
 
chris78jota said:
:)
I've copied other people on the forum who have had the bright idea of wrapping barrels and heads in clingfilm to keep them clean.  The chaincase is off the bike as it was knackered when I got it - it will be repaired - and the clearplastic keeps the crap off the clutch and chains. 

Chris
Click to expand...

Fine.
I work in operating theaters which are a lot less dust free than that.
Laverdas are industrial quality engineering.
A bit of cow dung is good for those engines.

Paul
 
750 cush drive bearings. Done at least 500km like that. Never noticed it riding. All fixed now. Tough old girl

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I was curious because cush drive bearings are regular culprits on cast wheels whereas they last ages with wire wheels. I think the ones in my SF2 were fitted in Breganze in 73-74.
I imagine that it's down to the wires being more flexible, spreading the load.

My cast wheel SFC would eat cush drive bearings for breakfast until we discovered a missing 2mm spacer.

Paul
 
Ok, it wasn't today, it started yesterday.
Dry weather at last so took the SF2 out and along with my girlfreind and her little Suzy, we went to the monthly meeting of the local classic and vintage bike club.
Always some nice machines there. Yesterday, a pristine Rocket Gold Star and more interestingly, a rather rare Harley flat twin.

We had a drink or two and then pushed on into belgian Flanders were a friend has opened a restaurant where we had a beer and a meal.

When I got home, I heated up the workshop and checked the torque on the race bike head which has seen about two hours use since rebuild. It didn't seem to need much retorquing.

To stick to the title, today, I put the cam cover back on.

Paul
 

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Fitted the replacement ignition rotor in the RGS after the previous one threw a magnet off. Put in a new pickup board too, as the other one appeared to have been hit by the wayward magnet. Thanks to Red for the warranty backup with the parts.

Needed a timing disk to set the ignition, so drew it with CAD, printed it out and glued it to an old CD. Machined up an extended shaft for it (so I could get in behind it to set the ignition rotor in the right spot).

While the ignition was apart, I took the opportunity to insert an extra steel clutch plate between the two friction plates that usually sit together. There was just enough room in the clutch, with a fraction of a mm to spare. Hopefully that'll cure the clutch slipping.

I'll take it for a test ride when the weather cools off a bit. I don't really want to get togged up in all my bike clobber when the temp is well above 30 deg C.
 

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Rode the SF2 into work. First time in a while, just had two weeks hols.
Purring nicely at low revs in town. A bit more revs and it lets you know it's in need of a tune. Nothing's been touched in 8000 km apart from oil change.
Hoping the Aprilia will come in soon so as I can get to work on the SF.

Paul
 
... filled up my freshly renovated workshop with parts and other stuff, bikes will follow tomorrow!
Ciao, Gert
 

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Terry Dymond said:
Wasn't that caused by an aluminium spacer crushing?
Click to expand...

yes, bloody hell, led to the cush drive and bearing failing, wheel cocking sideways at speed, bike coming to a very messy halt.........

had to recover the bike with a trailer, had to replace the cush drive assembly plus the wonky spacer with a proper steel spacer.

Entirely self inflicted, Wolfgang gave me hell before selling me a cush drive assembly from a SFC 1000 that he said he thought was stronger, but I couldn't see any visible difference.

my current Honda CBX project, I am fitting a Metmachex swing arm and a wider rear wheel, the necessary spacers are being made for me by a local machine shop out of some sort of appropriate STEEL right now, learned my lesson, I did.......

Paul LeClair
 
just received another Shindengen FH020AA "Mosfet" regulator rectifier kit, with overheat protection. If there is a problem in the charging system, rather than burn up it will simply turn off for a while until it cools down. Capable of 50 amps continuous 3 phase, or 30 amps continuous single phase. Should be the last regulator rectifier the bike will need in my lifetime, hopefully. ;)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-REGULATOR-UPGRADE-KIT-SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH020AA-/380801823383?hash=item58a98eb297:m:mCXcVj2Cg4ukmJ1vP4gijuA&vxp=mtr

Mounting it on my 79 1200 which has the IIS charging system conversion using a Kawasaki alternator.

With the pathetic Canadian dollar continuing to drop as against the American dollar, may be my last purchase from the U.S. for a while. $129.95 USD cost me $186.65 Canadian dollars, plus shipping. Ouch......... :'( :'( :'(

Paul LeClair
 

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Paul LeClair said:
yes, bloody hell, led to the cush drive and bearing failing, wheel cocking sideways at speed, bike coming to a very messy halt.........

had to recover the bike with a trailer, had to replace the cush drive assembly plus the wonky spacer with a proper steel spacer.

Entirely self inflicted, Wolfgang gave me hell before selling me a cush drive assembly from a SFC 1000 that he said he thought was stronger, but I couldn't see any visible difference.

my current Honda CBX project, I am fitting a Metmachex swing arm and a wider rear wheel, the necessary spacers are being made for me by a local machine shop out of some sort of appropriate STEEL right now, learned my lesson, I did.......

Paul LeClair
Click to expand...

JotaJoe's cush drive went while he was last in Ireland- had to be recovered - twas the bearing - he checked the bearings on my Joan while we were changing tyres and they were on the way out so they will need changing when the weather gets warmer 
 
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