Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Fahn cahn!!! >:D  Changed the fork seals today for nice Ariete ones from Keith- all good until I come to nip up the left hand leg.  Can't get it tight.  Put in some more preload but still no dice.  Have to walk away now before I try something stupid.

Any ideas on how to stop the damper rod turning?
 
Except you will not have the axle in place.
Try compressing the fork leg to put more pressure on the rod to slider interface.
 
Aye, well that was the idea by increasing the preload- I can't put any more in there.  Don't see how getting the bike off the stand would work. :o

I did run a thread chasing tool up the rod, but maybe there is still some crap up there that is getting in the way of it tightening up.  Will have another go tomorrow.
 
rattle gun sorts that issue out, extended Allen key socket, is what I use to get them to bite and tighten, then I check with the torque wrench

 
Reggie3cl said:
Fahn cahn!!! >:D  Changed the fork seals today for nice Ariete ones from Keith- all good until I come to nip up the left hand leg.  Can't get it tight.  Put in some more preload but still no dice.  Have to walk away now before I try something stupid.

Any ideas on how to stop the damper rod turning?
Click to expand...

Tapered aluminium rod tapped into the open end is the Racetech way.
http://racetech.com/page/title/PR_2013_NewTools

Bit of sharpened broom handle with a big bolt through it was my preferred method but I'm no mechanic :D
 
Pre-rattle gun I used full compression on one obstinate fork leg - achieved with a ratchet strap and a bit of care.  Heath Robinson but effective!
 
A while back, I had one that wouldn't undo. That was before I bought a rattle gun. Broom handle jammed down hard onto the damper rod worked. If you have the original damper valve setup, you can't shove a tapered stick into the end of the damper rod because the valve ball blocks the hole.

BTW, you can pick up a cheapo rattle gun for peanuts - probably less than 50 quid. Obviously it won't be top quality but good enough for the occasional job. You can get electric ones (mains or battery powered) if you don't have an air compressor.

 
Dellortoman said:
A while back, I had one that wouldn't undo.
Click to expand...

Had the same problem when pulling my Cerianis apart. Nearly tore out what was left of my hair as even the rattle gun would not budge the bolts. Took them into Mario at Thunderbikes, just laughed at me, gave them a good hard smack with a heavy hammer and drift to loosen the thread, then rattle gun and straight out. Took about 15 seconds each. Bastard.
 
Managed to get some m8 countersunk bolts from local farm machinery shop, just a bit long so had to lop the top off. Put the starter clutch back together and the bike's purring like a bought one again - very happy  ;)
(Also glad I found the cause of noise before further damage - total cost for this repair $1-60 :D)
 
Would have been a good idea to retro-fit the additional pins that the later versions got.  Takes a lot of load off the countersunk screws. :D

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Would have been a good idea to retro-fit the additional pins that the later versions got.  Takes a lot of load off the countersunk screws. :D

piet
Click to expand...
Damn - always one step behind :o Piet what do the additional pins look like and where do they go or do I need to buy a later ramp / housing set up?
Those screws have caused me probs a couple times so any hint of trouble I'll take it apart again. I'll probably take it apart and check them in the near future anyway, so if there is a better fix will be happy to do. (not a big job)
Thanks
 
:(  ooops, I misunderstood.
In desperate cases, i use Reds method, an Allen key in a hand drill on the hammer position. Compression on the fork leg of course.

Paul
 
Oh well, if I can't sort it out with the tools I have, I guess that's my Christmas present lined up.
 
What a pain in the arse.  Broom handle didn't grip and my electric drill with an allen key didn't work.  Managed to get 30'lbs on it by compressing the fork with a tie down, dunno if it'll take 35 which is what the other side is done up to.

Anyway, have refilled and compressed the fork to see if anything leaks out (yeah, I know it ain't the same sort of pressure it'll have to take when riding, but it's the best I can do atm.)
 
chrisk said:
Seat maker had girl #56 the night before ........... 38 - 33 - 0(big butt)
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Speaking from personal experience Chrisk,,,? :D 

But seriously, Its not important but would be nice to know, it would add to the bike's history.

3833 = 11*- 56  The 11 could be a H, and the * should be a O.
 
A good few hours in the garage. Did a bit more on Jenny's seat mounting, almost there with it now. Started to cut and shape rear mudguard and sorted out rear brake line routing. Ordered a front mudguard that has a much more pleasing profile and started on the battery mountings. Its getting closer!!!!!

FFF
 
Searched for a reason why the Jota's ignition failed to get Miss J and oneself to the club xmas ride/party last weekend.
Soon realized the present owner is indeed a dickhead!  :-[  & don't ya hate that  :'(
IMG_3122_01.jpg

Am disappointed in oneself as I'm usually pedantic about cable routing. hence on Friday, I neatly tucked the crank encoder cable around the primary cover and cable-tied under, and was completely oblivious that the cable was now free to loop down onto the exhaust collector.  D'oh, dumb & dumber!
DSCN2345_01.jpg

But pleased to know the good old IIS is without fault as it's performed well for over 10 years.  (thumbup)
 
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