Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Thanks Terry, Red, and Cam, but it?s playing up. I was in the shed tonight and switched the ignition on, to look at my volt meter, and I saw it was jittery, the display was switching on and off, and the fuel gauge was jittery again, this is what I noticed first, the fuel gauge, like before.

I started it and the display kept blanking out, like it did before I put the foil and went for a different power source.

It wasn?t jittery throughout the week, seems strange it?s changed just sitting there. It could be a dry joint, I?ve had a couple to deal with when I was putting it together, and I made a bit of a mess of the tracks taking the display off. I think my soldering iron is a bit cold for the solder-wick, it was a bit of a wrestle to get the display off.

I don?t think I?ll rush to pull it apart again. Now I?ve done the hard work, it should be easy enough to replace the two parts, if that?s what?s needed. I might buy another one of those volt meters, and look at buying another soldering iron before pulling it apart again. I might rev the freckle out of it until it backfires, that might fix it again.
 
So I'm having coffee this morning and I search on eBay for 'volt meter' and these come up, at the top of the page.

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Bloody hell, they didn't come up when I searched a couple of weeks back. I spent all that time de-soldering and re-soldering and this was available... pfftt.

It's a bit bigger at 22 x 14 mm, and the board looks bigger than the display, and its got those lugs, but for less than $4, I'll get one to look at, a green one. I've also ordered another of the same cig lighter ones.


And, I bought a soldering station, for $60, but I was looking at a new iron before I thought of a volt
meter, this just spurred me on.

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I've got plenty to be playing with, the light weight carby slide springs I've been wanting to try, and some other bits and bobs showed up this week. 
 
That voltmeter isn't very accurate. It's reading 6.96 Volts and it isn't connected to anything  ;)

I just ordered a couple of those cigarette lighter voltmeters. I can think of several uses for them.
 
finally managed to install the engine into the freshly painted 1000 SFC frame. Easy .... (once you know how to...)  :D

Now all the rest needs installation... ::)
 
Dellortoman said:
That voltmeter isn't very accurate. It's reading 6.96 Volts and it isn't connected to anything  ;)

I just ordered a couple of those cigarette lighter voltmeters. I can think of several uses for them.
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Are you sure it could be really buggered and be 96.9 !!
 
I think my rectifier is cactus. I can't get a reading on the diode setting with the multimeter when I test between the earth and stator leads on the rectifier, but it tests OK on the positive lead.

When I was riding it, the voltmeter wouldn't go above 12.4v, usually sitting on 12.2v. It dropped to 11.5v when I turned the headlight on, and dropped to 12.0v when using the indicators. The display blanking out business stopped once the ignition was advanced.

I hadn't hit the buy button on those two other voltmeters, I won't just yet, I'll put that $8 towards a new rectifier/regulator.

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Chappo said:
I think my rectifier is cactus. I can't get a reading on the diode setting with the multimeter when I test between the earth and stator leads on the rectifier, but it tests OK on the positive lead.
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If it has no reading between the earth wire and all 3 stator leads, it might just be a broken earth wire (unlikely that all 3 diodes on the -ve side of the rectifier would have failed together). Check the earth wire closer to the RR housing by poking a needle through the insulation to make contact. If the failure is internal to the RR housing, you're pretty much screwed.
 
Dellortoman said:
Check the earth wire closer to the RR housing by poking a needle through the insulation to make contact. If the failure is internal to the RR housing, you're pretty much screwed.
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I bared the wire about an inch back from the ring terminal and got the same result. I reckon she's had the sword.

Edit: I'll take it off one evening through the week and have a better poke at it. I've already ordered a new one.
 
Yogi said:
Davo might be the one to help you out here, Chappo...
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Here is a photo of me ready for a similar examination. Line up boys.

 

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Had an hour or so free of the surgical instruments and wellington boots (prospective patients must have seen the photo I posted) so took the opportunity to get into the shed. Pulled the empty crankcase out of the repaired frame, pulled off the front wheel, forks and triple clamps and cleaned up the new welded in headstock gussets and burnt paint and primed the area with a zinc rich etch primer.

Photo of the fine work done by the frame guy repairing the stuffed bearing surfaces in the cush drive. Machined to oversize and fitted and machined bronze bushes back to correct size for bearing fitment. Rear wheel was previously stiff but now spins freely.

 
Davo said:
Photo of the fine work done by the frame guy repairing the stuffed bearing surfaces in the cush drive.
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Looks sweet. I love seeing that sort of work.




I got my multimeter connected to the earth wire on my rectifier a couple of millimeters out from the casing, still reads like it is stuffed. Once I get a new one, and get things right, I might look at pulling this one apart.



 
Dellortoman said:
That's a neat job with the voltmeter. Bit of creative thinking there. Well done.
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Perhaps I should have patented the idea when I did it... along with the digital tacho to boot.
Say just before you can your regulator at what revs are you getting your readings... my RGS dont start throwing in the 14 volts till around 2500 under that and at idle with the indicators on you see the voltage drop back into the 11's no worries.

By the by I have had one of those cheap chinese regulators on the RGS now for lets see some 20 odd K's a few years ago and still going ok that was the reason I grafted in the voltmeter back then to monitor.


 
Brett said:
at what revs are you getting your readings... my RGS dont start throwing in the 14 volts till around 2500 under that and at idle with the indicators on you see the voltage drop back into the 11's no worries.
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Hi Brett, it used to be around 3000rpm that it would start charging at. Good to hear the news on el cheapo regulator.
 
I tend to run all my bikes with the headlight on all the time for two safety related reasons... being ex rider trainer safety have seen numerous studies into lights on vs non lights on... and secondly safety for the alternator and reg... in that when the lights are not on that excess charge has to go some where and that is shunted to ground so the reg gets hot along with the alternator wirings...

I have the cheap chinese reg mounted where the Original bosch transducers were so it can get some air flowing over it also.

Have grafted some nifty charge lights into the Nippon Denso clocks on the other bikes... ( shhh dont let el rivet counter know but )
 
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