Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Your sheds flooded, my back yard is a swamp again. It's a bloody wet winter this year. I wonder how Marty's underground bike bunker is getting on.
 
Yeah, same here; beautiful mild day in the Adelaide Hills. The bikes are whizzing up and down Gorge Road like angry bees. Weather is going to be same the whole Queen's Birthday weekend :D.
 
We have had an oddball weather pattern for the last 3 days, with the rain pushing in from the east to the west. Its very heavy a bit more north of Sydney with flash floods on the cards. Happy at home out of it, but I need to do some polishing after the wet Oxley Run last weekend.My headers are caked in burned on mud splatter from road works and the bit of dirt we did.
 
Vince said:
We have had an oddball weather pattern for the last 3 days, with the rain pushing in from the east to the west. Its very heavy a bit more north of Sydney with flash floods on the cards.

Typical Sydeneeee  :'(
Bloody boodifull everywhere else in OZ even Mexico  ;)
 
Put the Monty on the lift. I haven't run it in a couple of years, I just wanted to hear it bark again. :) Some quick cleaning and new fuel lines, popped in an old Odyssey battery I have, and it fired right up. What a lovely noise!

35123199232_3c90121391_b.jpg
 
Dellortoman said:
Your wheels sound like they're similar to Moto Guzzi wire wheels. They have the bearings in the disk adaptors too. I had to make up a set of bearing/disk carriers for a Guzzi recently. There's quite a few machining operations in the bloody things, then you have to make up the bearing spacer to go on the axle. It's a bit of a fiddle and (for me) lots of checking and re-checking arithmetic to get it so it all bolts up nicely with free-running bearings.

Good luck with the lathe operations. I'm happy if I get the disk runout to 0.1mm or less. I think the maximum runout specified in the workshop manual for the solid mounted disk rotors is 0.3mm. With floating disks you might get away with more than that because they can self-align to some degree.
Was indeed a tricky machining op - outside fits over the old 280mm disc mounting boss, machined the inside to fit where the old wheel bearings used to fit.

Finally sorted the whole matter. there were a number of small contributing factors to the prob - my learning curve as a turner! Managed to get the faces perfect and with discs fitted I get about 0.0-0.05mm runout at the 320mm edge of the rotors.

As for weight of the rotors, they do have steel centres and are about 15g lighter than the std later model scalloped 280mm Brembo rotors. I'll see how they perform. Anyone have weight figures for the lighter floating 320mm Brembos? I'm thinking steel centres will be more durable with buttons than the alloy centres, which makes for a better road brake IMO, especially if you like hammering around on bumpy dirt roads.
 
Brett said:
I have the cheap chinese reg mounted where the Original bosch transducers were so it can get some air flowing over it also.

I fit my new regulator last weekend. It is bigger than the original, so I had to remove the original ignition boxes and make like Brett and install the regulator there. I'm still wondering what I would have done if I did not have the Ignitech fitted.

The regulator is just the right size to jam in between the brackets.

q59zhm3.jpg


My voltmeter now reads 14.1/14.2 volts when riding with the headlight on.

Comparing the reading of the diodes between the new and old regulator, I got a reading of around 330 for the new regulator and around 530 with the old regulator.
After doing a bit of reading, I think this means I have 0.7v Silicon diodes in the original and 0.3v Germanium diodes in the new regulator.

This website says Germanium diodes are best for crystal radios and RF probes,

http://www.packetradio.com/pdfzips/Germanium_vs_SiliconDiodeTesting.pdf

but this website says Silicon diodes are best for Switched Mode Power Supplies, whatever that is.

https://www.quora.com/Why-Silicon-Si-diodes-are-preferred-over-Germanium-diodes-for-rectifier-circuits-in-Switched-Mode-Power-Supply-SMPS

After reading this, "The structure of Germanium crystals will be destroyed at higher temperature. However, Silicon crystals are not easily damaged by excess heat." I think Silicon diodes would be best for automobile regulator/rectifiers.

Anyway, it's up and running, we'll see how it goes.


 
Uhh, Germaniumdiodes, that would be really oldschool. :LOL: Think you got rather Schottky diodes in that unit, they fit for this application and are much easier to source  than Germanium diodes nowadays.
 
Removed the open bellmouths on the track bike's Mikuni carbs and fitted pod filters. All fitted OK. Only had to swivel the right side fuel tap (on Boba carbon fibre tank) around by about 45 deg so the handle would clear the filter. I haven't had the bike out for a test run yet so I dunno what effect they'll have on performance, if any. I'll report back if it there are any problems on the next track day. I have a similar setup on my Jota and it breathes OK so I'm not expecting any major issues.
 

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Dellortoman said:
Removed the open bellmouths on the track bike's Mikuni carbs and fitted pod filters. All fitted OK. Only had to swivel the right side fuel tap (on Boba carbon fibre tank) around by about 45 deg so the handle would clear the filter. I haven't had the bike out for a test run yet so I dunno what effect they'll have on performance, if any. I'll report back if it there are any problems on the next track day. I have a similar setup on my Jota and it breathes OK so I'm not expecting any major issues.
You can also just clamp large dia foam socks right over the bellmouths if you aren't happy with the mumbo factor. A big foam job will allow loads of air in.
 
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