Redax Generator and Ignition upgrade to Laverda Jota 180 series 1

IAG said:
Don't know if the mini-series coils will fit Red's bracket. Some sellers on eBay do not list the coils by the Tek # but by application; I searched for Kaw EX250 coils (single) and 1991-2003 Honda CB750 Nighthawk (dual) & paid $25 for each. I have a spare dual Tek coil w/ leads and compression nuts if anyone is interested-pay the shipping and it's yours.
JotaJoe-a polite reminder on the install-make sure you dress the crank as Red suggests & fit the rotor to make sure it spins freely and re-use the rectangular rubber guide/grommet that the original alternator wires pass through. Use WD40 to remove and install the guide/grommet before you pass the new wires through the case. Kit is foolproof-you will love your Lav even more.
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Hey cheers for the advice...I will do all that you/ Red and Keith have advised.  Having received the kit and shown it to my motorbikin' buddies we are all of one mind in that it is an amazingly well thought out and manufactured improvement to the bike and very much worth the investment.

In today's traffic conditions you simply do not want a bike that falters at 2000rpm..that's just the point on a slip road I am opening up to get in lane and up to speed... and then routinely flattens it's battery.... The bike is valuable and so am I...

Any road up, It's Sunday. It's Sunny and it is time to fit dat kit  :)

First stage remove the old alternator..

joe
 
I didn't get as far as I wanted to. A mate turned up on a Triumph Outfit with a dodgy Cliktronic gear change and pulled me off my job.

However, I did manage to strip the old ignition and generator and regulator off and render the bike un-rideable ha ha,

I did clean up the Crankshaft taper and fit the back plate and the pick ups..Oh and the regulator is nicely fitted...



I am wondering ( as they are mounted and look glorious ) if there is any issue in retaining the OE Ignition coils ? My bike is a 1980 series 1 Jota BTZ

The coils/leads/caps are in great shape.  To fit the Tek Coils I have to play with the mounting plate as the coils have different centres to oe..

joe


 

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I m sure you can Joe,Red will know.See Malcolm sold an alternator gen and plate for ?144.50 the other day may well be worth clawing some money back on fleabay?

Shaun
 
Input resistance is primary resistance measured @ the "+" and "-" poles on the coil. Should be at least 2 ohm according to the previous link.
 
lemonjelly said:
I m sure you can Joe,Red will know.See Malcolm sold an alternator gen and plate for ?144.50 the other day may well be worth clawing some money back on fleabay?

Shaun
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Thanks Shaun,

Yes, that's a possibility but I'd have to have the alternator tested before offering it for sale...Thanks for the tip though Shaun..The things some folks'll do to get a pint lol...
 
Joe,
No need to replace the coils on a BTZ equipped bike, they are fine to use as is.

Tchau
Red

 
The resistors or the rubbish bins ; ) ?

I have stopped for a bit as I am reading method about finding middle of TDC and I've ordered a TDC guage for ? 16.00 to try and do it accurately ... I would suggest that people avoid me for a while as the conversation will be unbelievably boring ha ha..I'm thinking about nothing but TDC ..

joe
 
G'day Joe

What's a TDC gauge? Are you talking about a dial gauge?

A dial gauge will find TDC but it's not a lot of use for setting ignition timing on a Laverda because the spark plug holes are angled. It would be OK if the head is off and and you can mount it parallal to the cylinder axis. You can then calculate crank angle from piston displacement and make the appropriate marks on the alternator rotor.

For ignition and valve timing adjustment I prefer to use a positive piston stop and a degree wheel.

Cam
 
G'day Cam : )

Thank you for keeping a watchful eye on my efforts !

The gismo I have ordered is similar to a TDC stop. It has a 14mm thread so is fitted into the spark plug port and there is a plunger with graduations marked on it so that I can see where TDC commences, dwells and then the point at which the piston begins to descend in the cylinder.

My cunning plan is to use this and also ( at set up stage ) to make a TDC mark at beginning of tdc using a pointy pencil on the back plate against the original crank case mark. Then to observe the dwell and make a second mark just prior to piston going back down. I am hoping the mid point between these two marks will be the centre of TDC and all will be good.

I have read of the other method of bringing the piston up to a TDC stop..reading a degree disc and then reversing the rotation until the piston stops again and re reading the degree disc and halving the reading to find TDC.

all good fun and the learning curve is steep : )

joe
 

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The problem with not using a positive stop is the flywheel effect,it tends to take off rotation by itself when your close.That and the time the piston tends to take not moving much makes it impossible to be really accurate and if your degreeing cams it needs to be plus or minis a couple of degrees at least or your wasting your time,so to speak,yuk yuk.Making one out of an old spark plug is easy and cheap.Don't make it to short or again your wasting your time.Been there.
 
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