Removing 750 SF cam follower spindles

TeddyG

TeddyG

Hero member
Location
Portland Oregon
I'd like to remove the cam follower spindles and have read info on heating up the cylinder w/ a torch or oven. Should the spindles then just drop out by twisting the slot w/ a large screw driver? In case this won't work, can anyone advise how to fashion an extractor like the factory tool that uses a long 6mm bolt?
Thank you
 

Attachments

  • tools.png
    tools.png
    340.1 KB · Views: 27
You don't need much heat at all to make it very easy to remove the spindles, Ted. You can fashion a simple puller using a long M6 bolt and a spacer. Screw the bolt or all-thread into the threaded spindle hole with a socket or similar spacer and washer and nut over them. Apply a little heat locally with a paint stirpper heat gun and wind the nut down - you'll find the spindle moves very easily and can be pulled out once it's come out about 10mm.
 
No need, Ted - this forum is all about helping fellow owners learn about their bikes. Great prints though!

M6 all-thread is cheap and easy to find. The spindles aren't that tight - a very light interference fit; nothing remotely like a press fit. i confess to having removed them cold at times, without stress or damage.

Fitting is even easier - warm head, a soft punch and they go in with ease (cams on compression stroke for each side of course) - you need to align the cutout in each spindle so it mates with the stud holes (looking down where the studs will fit when refitting the head). The big slot allows you to rotate the spindle, if the head is warmed sufficiently.

On the topic of vibration it could be possible that your crank is way out of true. A very out of whack crank will vibrate like crazy and that can severely restrict the willingness to rev. If you have a dial gauge you could run it on both left and right shafts and rotate the crank by hand. Not the best way to check a crank but could indicate if there's something seriously amiss. Would mean removing starter clutch and primary cover to get to the crank though.
 
Thanks Pianha,

More bad news- after removing the followers reveals worn upper cam lobes- no deep scratches but sort of worn/burnished flat spots, and followers have some minor wear. One follower had some lateral slop and has a small groove from the edge of the cam rubbing against it.
Next I'll examine the springs and valves. So after seeing this, along w/ cylinders that need reboring, I'm assuming the bottom end may have issues and I'll get a bore dial gauge to check it as you've outlined. The bike came to me w only 15K miles, but it wasn't serviced properly and the oil was probably never changed enough. And yes, the motor seemed to be vibrating alot- even for a rigid mounted parallel twin.
 
Can you post pics of the rocker hard chrome surfaces and the cam lobes?

You won't need a bore dial gauge to check crank true. Just a dial gauge on each exposed end of the crank. But TBH, I reckon it's worth pulling the cases apart and having the crank checked out properly. You'll end up with a better result from all your labours and far greater peace of mind.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top