Removing 750SF front sprocket cover

TeddyG

TeddyG

Hero member
Location
Portland Oregon
Greetings all,

Another Forum member kindly answered this question awhile ago, but I can't find the posting, so please list the steps again, many thanks! I have the Green Book but it doesn't seem to explain this.
 
RH pipe off, clutch cable engine end disconnected (MUCH easier with an extended lever), gear lever off, three M6 outer cover bolts off, remove cover, remove selector hook mechanism and 'drum' (noting washer positions and making sure the selector drum pins don't get lost), remove the four M6 bolts (one inside the cover), remove the cover. It's all pretty obvious once you're in there.

There are tricks when you refit.
 
Thank you very much- you and other members have been extremely helpful in answering my many questions. As I've previously posted, I'm chasing down the causes of the motor's poor performance. I recently used a boroscope and see what appear to be nasty wear marks on the cylinders, and also thinking the cam timing is off. So I'm in the process of tilting the motor to remove the cam cover and then the cylinders. I'll post what I find in another week or so-
 
It's actually only two more engine mounting bolts and the motor's out, Ted. Makes access a whole lot easier and it sounds like you'll be removing the lot anyway.
 
Good point about removing the entire motor.
Before I remove the mechanism, I want to be sure to do it correctly and be able to re-install it, so here's a few questions. Does the entire assembly simply slide out or will the 2 springs cause issues? And the "tricks" to re-assemble?
Thanks again!
 

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The slot mark on the selector 'drum' (the thing with the pins in it) lines up with another mark on the internal gear when it's in neutral. So just make sure you're in neutral and proceed - dead easy. The big spring remains 'open' on removal as it rests on the shift fork lug. Just pull the lever shaft outward while pushing the hook with the little spring away to the right to clear the selector drum. A flat head screwdriver to help ease the big spring off the eccentric adjuster screw might be needed. There are no washers or shims that fit behind the mechanism when you refit it. Once that's off just slide the drum out. You'll see the marks lining up if you look in through the sighting hole before you remove it.

Main things on refitting are to ensure that the legs of the big spring can't move inward and interfere with the full movement of the arm to its stop position on the adjusting bolt (up and down). Make sure all the selector drum pins are in place (shim over the top retains them once the outer cover is on). Don't tighten the four M6 bolts fully - tap the cover fore and aft until there is no friction or freeplay between the cog on the inside of the drum and the gear visible through the sighting hole. Obviously make sure the marks align. The drum should slide in and the cogs engage easily when the bolts are fully tightened.

If the bike was shifting nicely before disassembly, don't touch the adjustment.
 
Thanks again,
The mechanism basically slide out w no surprises and l,ll follow your steps for reinstall. First bike I,ve ever seen w a buried front sprocket! years of caked on chain lube. Next wil remove chain and tilt/ remove motor and see what’s inside-
 
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