Removing - Bosch Ignition Terminal Plate Board - 750 sf

S

Smartv11

Full member
Location
Meopham, Kent
Help;

How is the Ignition Terminal Plate Board removed from the 'BMW' style headlight shell from 750s / sf.

My ignition key is a bit wobbly, causing the ignition to cut out, so would like to inspect, adjust or replace, but can't see how to remove it?

Paul
 
The board is held in place by 4 slender steel tangs.  They go through the board and are then twisted to keep it in place.  You'll find them at the corners of the board.  With time, the board weakens and slips down the tangs a little, causing the intermittant contacting.  You might get away with simply twisting/bending the tangs a little further.  Complete removal and replacement is a royal pita, especially un-doing the tangs can be frustrating.  They often just snap off, making things even worse...

Also, check the condition of your key.  The retention groove is sometimes worn to the extent that full pressure can no longer be exerted on the ignition contacts.

piet
 
I agree with Piet on all that. I recently replaced the switch assembly on my '71 SF with a new one from Wolfgang. Very fiddly and I am hoping I do not have to ever mess with it again. If I do I will probably just cut it out of the wiring harness and put in some toggle switches somewhere inconspicuous. You probably know that the Bosch switch was used on many old BMWs of that era too, but the Laverda one is not quite identical to any of the BMW ones. It's a surprisingly bad piece of engineering, especially the way it is mounted.
 
Agree with all the above, however my wiring man disposed of the half way up position for the key,and so middle down position is just off  never needing to remove the key and importantly never puts any down force of the whole assembly.
 
Recently fitted a repro item meant for an old Beemer, needed only slight modification for the Laverda wiring, fitted perfectly otherwise and works as it should.  Minor differences in the switch assembly are limited to little alterations to the spring-loaded switch cover.  All the Beemer stuff fitted nicely to the remains of the Laverda bits that I had to my disposal.

If the switch receives a drop of oil or a slight smear of grease every now and then, the nail/key does not exert so much force, and thus will not inflict damage to the underlying board.

If properly maintained, the switch is actually very sturdy and will last for several decades!  It's usually the neglected, worn out stuff that gives problems.  The replacement repro board cost around ?110 and is of excellent quality, not a bad deal if you're striving for originality.

piet
 
LJ said:
......half way up position for the key,and so middle down position is just off  never needing to remove the key ....
Click to expand...

hmmm, what's half  way up? I push the key all the  way down and right for engine start (and turn the key left for park if ever I wanted to do so????). With key all the way down and in centre position and with a wiggle the idiot lights come on, which I don't think is ok?.

The turn left or right and back to centre is a very positive action across the terminal board, so it may be the key?

My key does look a bit worn, so I may try a replacement, I assume all keys are are identical?

Paul
 
there is a halfway up position ,key pointing forward, for off without removing the key ,which stops you turning it on by mistake.
 
Smartv11 said:
LJ, painting the inside of the headlamp white is genius, you should get a prize :D
Click to expand...

Agree!  Must be one of the tidiest Laverda headlights I've ever seen... LH bolt spoils it a bit! :D

piet (bolt)
 
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