Removing the start clutch cover on Series 1 triple

ngiles

ngiles

Senior member
Location
Sydney, Australia
Hi there - I seem to starter clutch trouble/slippage on my 1980 Jota. It is fitted with an Ignitech ignition. I have pulled the alternator rotor off and undone the 5 bolts that hold on the start clutch crankcase cover. Two questions:

1. Can I remove the cover without having to remove the stator and the timing plate that sits behind it - to avoid having to set that up again
2. Having removed the 5 bolts, is there something I've missing about it removal - seems pretty stuck on the and my rubber mallet efforts haven't worked

TIA, cheers, Nick
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Hi Nick, I haven't worked with the Ignitech ignition but i would have thought it would all have to be removed in order to remove the cover.

Previous post might explain further

Starter clutch

The starter clutch on my 79 Jota needs replacing. I have stripped the ignition off the crank and the situation is as follows: There is a large nut on the crank, behind that is an oil seal quite loose on the crank, behind that is a bearing tight on the crank, behind that is the clutch. Where...
laverdaforum.com laverdaforum.com
 
In my older post shown here you can see what subject cover looks like when dismantled. Guess you've to dismantle everything on the crankshaft to get the cover off. The cover carries a bearing - should be checked too ...
 
Take off ya stator........ then your ignitec p-ups, which should then reveal a 36mm Hex nut. Remove it, then the cover will come away.
To reveal you s-clutch.

Roberts ya mothers brother!
 
Schurminater said:
Hi Nick, I haven't worked with the Ignitech ignition but i would have thought it would all have to be removed in order to remove the cover.

Previous post might explain further

Starter clutch

The starter clutch on my 79 Jota needs replacing. I have stripped the ignition off the crank and the situation is as follows: There is a large nut on the crank, behind that is an oil seal quite loose on the crank, behind that is a bearing tight on the crank, behind that is the clutch. Where...
laverdaforum.com laverdaforum.com
Click to expand...

I wouldn't use the method described as with this the entire torque would go through the crankshaft - which is a pressed together construct. Better use a rattle gun.
 
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Everything has to come off. Yes, 36 mm left hand thread nut. Thin skinny sucker. Be VERY careful not to chew up the nut. On one of my triples some years go, I needed to replace the leaky oil seal behind the nut. Whoever had been there before me had pretty much destroyed the left hand thread nut, it then had to be cut off very carefully and very slowly with a Dremel. Was a horrible job to be forced to have to do.

while you are in there replace the oil seal as well. I also agree with the suggestion to use air tools for disassembly, I use a heavy duty air impact gun and bought a proper 36 mm deep socket.
 
Yep, wot they said. Worth noting is that you need an extra-deep 36mm socket, preferably 6-point and preferably machined at the the front a bit to remove the deep chamfer that usually exists so that it can best engage on the shallow nut.
I got a 36mm impact socket from totaltools and cut it in half, welded in a few inches of heavy walled tube, and use a rattle gun to remove. It doesn't need to be very tight on reassembly, don't dugga-dugga the hell out of it! :)

For ignitech setup, use Red's well documented instruction manual, found in the library here:

180 triple - Installation and adjustment of Redax/Ignitech 300 watt alternator & ignition system

An excellent upgrade to the puny OE Bosch alternator to avoid a 'flat' battery. Also provides a programmable ignition system to either replace the now aged HKZ system or get rid of the BTZ step change to full advance.
laverdaforum.com laverdaforum.com
 
breganzane said:
I got a 36mm impact socket from totaltools and cut it in half, welded in a few inches of heavy walled tube, and use a rattle gun to remove. It doesn't need to be very
Click to expand...

A few years ago, I needed to replace that seal. I'd bought the seal months before, knowing that job had to be done at some stage, but there's nothing like leaving things to the last minute to provide motivation so I tackled it on the night before an early morning departure on a weekend trip with some mates. It was late enough in the evening that all the shops were shut, so I couldn't go out and buy a 36mm socket to modify like Steve did. Besides, I'm a cheap bastard and sockets that big are reasonably pricey. I ended up making a tube spanner by welding 6 bits of flat steel together to make a hexagonal ring which I then welded to a bit of pipe. I didn't want to sacrifice one of my sockets for the 1/2" drive, so I welded a big old nut to the other end that I could put the rattle gun on. It took about half an hour to cobble together and looked pretty rough, but it worked perfectly.

36mm socket 1.jpg
 
Nice solution in the circumstances Cam! There are other threads on here talking about this tool. I seem to recall there being a model number of socket that was available at a reasonable price in other markets, but I couldn't find anything suitable in Oz at a sensible price. I think I used a house brand TTI deep socket for like $15 which I was fine with. I added about 50mm to it.
 
Extra deep 36mm socket available for a small fee, also comes with the man to reset your ignitech plate. Oh, that's right. Payment already made, something to do with a trailer....... Even when you think you have put the plate back exactly in the same place, even a couple of degrees out will make a difference. Replace the seal while you're in there.
 
Usually the nut comes off easily but the last one I did was murder. I couldn't move it with my impact driver but Ged at GCS got his big mutha air wrench on it and voila.
 
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