Replacing 750 dash

angonemoto

angonemoto

Hero member
Location
Chicago, USA
The old dash failed at the mounting points so I am trying to install the new one. The new dash has solid rings for the rubber bushing around the the gauge to press into versus the open ended loop that would squeeze closed over a small stud. I'm vexxed trying to press the gauges in by hand with liberal amounts or wd40. Tried with the rubber bush on the gauge first and with it in the dash ring first, both no go.

Any techniques to share? Thanks.
 
My mum, god bless her soul, used to take her rings off her fingers by wrapping cotton thread around, and down the finger. (Think piston ring compressor). And the rings would just slip off. Maybe, put the rubber on the gauge, wrap tightly with nylon fishing line to compress the rubber, insert into the dash and pull the fishing line out, wind by wind. Just a thought.
 
chrisk said:
My mum, god bless her soul, used to take her rings off her fingers by wrapping cotton thread around, and down the finger. (Think piston ring compressor). And the rings would just slip off. Maybe, put the rubber on the gauge, wrap tightly with nylon fishing line to compress the rubber, insert into the dash and pull the fishing line out, wind by wind. Just a thought.
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That's a cool idea, I'm just worried the fishing line or other string will cut into the rubber and the wrapping would be rather difficult considering the width of the lip. I get that this would be on the underside of the assembly, but I would always know. (Yes, I'm that disturbed in the head.)
 
Don't the later SF2/3 dashes have 8mm nuts securing the rings underneath? I recall fitting the gauges and rubber and squeezing the outer rings into pos and fitting the nuts last.
 
I find that if you take the backing plate off and lube the rubber ring ( dishwashing detergent, soap, talcum poEder) you should find that the instrument should just slip in. If you use a detergent mixed with water when it dries out it tends to stop the instrument from moving around in use.
Tom
 
ozijotati said:
I find that if you take the backing plate off and lube the rubber ring ( dishwashing detergent, soap, talcum poEder) you should find that the instrument should just slip in. If you use a detergent mixed with water when it dries out it tends to stop the instrument from moving around in use.
Tom
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(y) Simple as...

piet
 
Yep, assemble the lot without the instruments, take the chrome backs off them and they just slip in. In my experience, they're quite loose and tend to rotate with the cable needing to slip a small shim in or a drop of neoprene glue.
Paul
 
Taking the chrome cap off worked. And a warm soapy bath to get it all together. So, per usual, I also decided to replace the fuel lines and now I have a ridiculously high idle so I'll need to recheck the cable routing. And I adjusted the bars a bit low so now I can toot the horn when turning left full lock. So, back to it again tomorrow. Glad I don't do this for a living.
 
chrisk said:
Congratulations. I had a bloke tell me I should build custom motorbikes for a job. I’d be broke after the first month of stuffing around, and getting nowhere.
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And I reckon I'd be asking for $100k for something as complex as the SFQ, Chris!!! But I guess there are millionaires out there with cash to spend on something truly unique. I wonder how much Graeme Crosby charges for his modernised classics such as Zs and the like.
 
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