RGA Vitaloni wing mirror

M

Magnidec

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Barry WALES UK. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
Hi Guys, hoping somebody can help advise me on this one.
My right hand mirror stem connection into the master cylinder has stripped its thread.
In the end after an "Easy Out" had failed I had to cut/grind the connection off and drill out remainder.
Now I have an unthreaded hole to connect into, but more importantly the connecting piece has been sacrificed.
My question is :-
Does anybody have this connection piece ?
I don't expect anything for nothing and quite happy to pay for it.
Finding this fitting seems impossible, but if anyone could help I’d be very grateful.
Attached are some pics to explain the piece I need. It’s the fitting that goes immediately into the master cylinder casting, the rest I already have.
Thanks in advance for any assistance you could offer.
Regards
Howard
ps. The last pic is of the fitting I need. The one I had to butcher to get it off.
 

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Strange and weirdly complicated mounting system for a mirror that just screws into a mounting hole on the master cylinder. I reckon I'd be chucking it in favour of something more simple, unless it's an original mirror that you want to retain.

In the photo of the fitting, I presume that angled cut through the bottom part is the problem. If that's the case, I reckon it would be possible to repair it so it looks and works as good as a new one.
Just a couple of questions: What's it made of? and does it have an internal thread in the part that's been cut?

As for the stripped thread in the mirror mounting hole of the master cylinder casting, a Helicoil or other type of insert would fix that.
 
Dellortoman said:
Strange and weirdly complicated mounting system for a mirror that just screws into a mounting hole on the master cylinder. I reckon I'd be chucking it in favour of something more simple, unless it's an original mirror that you want to retain.

In the photo of the fitting, I presume that angled cut through the bottom part is the problem. If that's the case, I reckon it would be possible to repair it so it looks and works as good as a new one.
Just a couple of questions: What's it made of? and does it have an internal thread in the part that's been cut?

As for the stripped thread in the mirror mounting hole of the master cylinder casting, a Helicoil or other type of insert would fix that.
Click to expand...
The angled cut was me having to cut out the fitting, to drill out the stud in the hole in the master cylinder. Whatever goes back in will need a heli coil. The angle cut fitting is what I need to replace. No other reason than to match the other mirror. Thanks for your help.
 
Those aren't original mirrors, and without wishing to be rude I don't think they look all that nice either so replacing them seems like a decent solution.
Generic mirrors out of China tend to lose their adjustment and become useless pretty quickly, and fancy pants things like Rizoma are just stupidly priced. Last year I bought a pair of these (allegedly) Taiwan-made mirrors for my Jota for au$100 the pair and I'm really happy with them. Seem well made, look quite nice while still being high enough to work, and have held their adjustment perfectly even with some ahem... highish speed testing.
www.kiwavmotors.com

road & naked: Eclipse black mirrors for Metric 10mm bikes

Eclipse black mirrors for Metric 10mm bikes road & naked Hot item! More than 500 people have purchased it.
www.kiwavmotors.com www.kiwavmotors.com
I got mine from ebay au but probably available all over, or from the shop linked here.

Is it the thread in the master cylinder that's stripped or was it just in the (as Cam said, over-complicated) adapter bizzo that's part of the Vitaloni bit?
 
That Taiwan company makes some great accessories! I bought a pair of their mirrors (different pattern) a couple of years back and continue to be impressed with their quality. I am now a big fan of their products. Act now before Ping takes over the country!
I should add that shipping was unbelievably fast from Taiwan to US of A.
 
If there's a problem with the thread in the master cylinder casting then an alternative to consider is that the later rectangular reservoir master as used on Zane' bikes, Ducati, KTM and others' master cylinder assemblies came with a clamp that has the mirror mount thread in the top of clamp part not in the cylinder part and those clamping pieces are readily available with 8mm and 10mm threads with the same clamp bolt spacing as the original clamp pieces (32mm).
 
LaverdaIan said:
And forget the helicoils.. old and unreliable.. timesert are the best solution to stripped out holes in my experience..
Click to expand...
I don't really agree there Ian.

It's true that for a given bolt diameter, solid inserts are usually stronger and more robust than Helicoils, but only if there's enough surrounding metal to accept the larger diameter hole.

There's nothing wrong with Helicoils. Dismissing them as old and unreliable is not a fair assessment of the technology. They actually make a stronger joint than the original thread and are often a preferred engineering solution for a stripped thread. Failures of Helicoils can usually be attributed to poor installation.

I don't think a solid insert is the best option in this case. The boss on the M/C into which the mirror screws isn't massive, so I a solid insert will leave a thinner wall of parent metal around the hole than a Helicoil. I would recommend a Helicoil as the more cautious option because it minimises the amount of metal to be removed from the casting.

Another reason to keep the thread diameter as small as possible in Dave's particular case is the proximity of the (perpendicular) bolt hole for the handlebar clamp bolt. That bolt hole is a stress concentrator so you don't want to weaken the casting at that location any more than necessary. A large hole for a solid insert may actually break through into the handlebar clamp bolt hole.
 
Agree that a helicoil is perfect for this fix ... and they're a whole lot cheaper. Timeserts are brilliant in places like engine case studs and probably a spark plug thread.
 
Dellortoman said:
I don't really agree there Ian.

It's true that for a given bolt diameter, solid inserts are usually stronger and more robust than Helicoils, but only if there's enough surrounding metal to accept the larger diameter hole.

There's nothing wrong with Helicoils. Dismissing them as old and unreliable is not a fair assessment of the technology. They actually make a stronger joint than the original thread and are often a preferred engineering solution for a stripped thread. Failures of Helicoils can usually be attributed to poor installation.

I don't think a solid insert is the best option in this case. The boss on the M/C into which the mirror screws isn't massive, so I a solid insert will leave a thinner wall of parent metal around the hole than a Helicoil. I would recommend a Helicoil as the more cautious option because it minimises the amount of metal to be removed from the casting.

Another reason to keep the thread diameter as small as possible in Dave's particular case is the proximity of the (perpendicular) bolt hole for the handlebar clamp bolt. That bolt hole is a stress concentrator so you don't want to weaken the casting at that location any more than necessary. A large hole for a solid insert may actually break through into the handlebar clamp bolt hole.
Click to expand...
Bloody engineers, just love 'em... ;)
But all true of course.. thanks blokes.

:cool:
 
Hi folks, does anyone know where I can buy one of these mirror adapters please?
I had to cut out the right hand one from the lever mount and then drill out the hole, which will now need a helicoil.
They're Vitaloni mirrors fitted to a Laverda RGA, but probably fitted to many different vehicles.
One end is threaded and the other a compression fit onto the plain mirror stem.
The photo shows the other undamaged left hand side and I’d like to keep it original. (If indeed this is even original) Failing that, two new matching fittings that would fit the Vitaloni mirror stems and fit standard (10mm I think) handlebar mounts.
Many thanks if anyone can help.19282267-8AF2-423D-972C-FA58340CCFAA.jpeg
 
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I presume the part you cut in two is steel. As I said in your other thread on this subject, it can be repaired and have a new stud inserted into the bottom. If welded carefully, machined back to its original diameter and painted black afterward, the weld would be invisible.

If you can't find a replacement part, or anyone local to repair the cut one, I'd be happy to have a go at it free of charge if you pay the postage to/from Australia. I've done trickier repair jobs than that.

As a last (most expensive) resort, take the good one to an engineering shop and ask them to make a copy. It's not a complicated job, just a bit fiddly. It would be a couple of hours work for an apprentice machinist.
 
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