RGS gauze filter

So which is the worse of two evils? A fine mesh that captures lumps of metal and stops them passing through your engine internals, but blocks up with ‘fuzz’, or a courser mesh that doesn’t really stop anything? 🤷
 
So which is the worse of two evils? A fine mesh that captures lumps of metal and stops them passing through your engine internals, but blocks up with ‘fuzz’, or a courser mesh that doesn’t really stop anything? 🤷
Gearbox teeth won't pass through the finer oil passages.
Paul
 
So which is the worse of two evils? A fine mesh that captures lumps of metal and stops them passing through your engine internals, but blocks up with ‘fuzz’, or a courser mesh that doesn’t really stop anything? 🤷
Whatever solids manage to pass through the early-type coarse "filter" will knacker the oil pump. The resultant loss in oil flow volume will eventually attend to the rest of the engine.

A blocked fine mesh strangling oil supply will knacker the engine directly.

To prevent this is why engineers devised inspection and oil change intervals. Ignore them, face the possible consequences.

piet
 
So which is the worse of two evils? A fine mesh that captures lumps of metal and stops them passing through your engine internals, but blocks up with ‘fuzz’, or a courser mesh that doesn’t really stop anything? 🤷
Have a look at the filter in the old thread from Maurice I posted above.
 
"If the Jota 120 owner Clem describes had various dealers carrying out the service over a period of twelve years , and just paid the bill ..... without even knowing what oil was going in ......... then how would he know if these different dealers were bothering to drop the exhaust and check the filter each time , or not ?"

that idea doesnt work either because I (personally) did at least three services for Paul, and as I (probably) hadnt seen (for maintenance) the bike the previous year or two, I DEFINATELY dropped the strainer each time I saw it, it ran perfecty until an oil was installed that was not compatoble with the residues of the previous oil (my theory unproved).

Pirahna Bro2 the slingers catch oil "slinging" out of the two pumped fed centre main bearings, when running, they (the slingers) are probably pretty much full of oil, and the centrifugal forces, allow the oil to be spun all over the place, from the fullup larger than bearing centre tin bore hole, but the soild retained in the outer periphery which is a tight fit onto the flywheels, tight, but not neccesarrilly oil tight.

As said before IT ALWAYS happens after a short mileage following an oil change, if the dealer/mechanic/owner cleaned the strainer it could still happen) so my advice is this, change your oil brand? then only do 100 miles and drop it again to check for fluff, refill with the same oil no matter if the strainer is stil clean or contaminated, if you buy a bike and do not know what oil is in it (common) then change the bleeding oil, and again at 100 miles.
CLEM
 
Been meaning to to post pictures of this fuzz for a while. Finally found them, background to this is about eight years ago I purchased a RGS off a friend with the intention of to develop it into a track bike. Now I had been warned by a very knowledgeable friend who said that he had witnessed this bike on a trip have an engine issue that he believed to be a crank on the way out. Not a problem says I as I’ll get the motor done up anyway. Now upon inspection of the oil filter I found the dreaded fluff completely blocking the gauze filter. So off with the cam cover to find a nasty grey paste around the number one exhaust cam bearing😢. Cleaned the filter then dressed the bike up in bodywork that was in way better condition than when I purchased the bike and sold it on. Actually sold it back to the previous owner who loved it with all the original bodywork on. That bike still has not seen daylight and I doubt it ever will😢IMG_3095.jpegIMG_3094.jpegIMG_3093.jpegGo ahead and zoom in to see all the shiney metal particles😢
 
Been meaning to to post pictures of this fuzz for a while. Finally found them, background to this is about eight years ago I purchased a RGS off a friend with the intention of to develop it into a track bike. Now I had been warned by a very knowledgeable friend who said that he had witnessed this bike on a trip have an engine issue that he believed to be a crank on the way out. Not a problem says I as I’ll get the motor done up anyway. Now upon inspection of the oil filter I found the dreaded fluff completely blocking the gauze filter. So off with the cam cover to find a nasty grey paste around the number one exhaust cam bearing😢. Cleaned the filter then dressed the bike up in bodywork that was in way better condition than when I purchased the bike and sold it on. Actually sold it back to the previous owner who loved it with all the original bodywork on. That bike still has not seen daylight and I doubt it ever will😢View attachment 100879View attachment 100880View attachment 100881Go ahead and zoom in to see all the shiney metal particles😢


There's always a bit of metal in there Tom, mostly from the gearbox and chain cogs I'd suspect. This would have passed through the earlier type strainers, ending in the oil slingers, but it would have gone through the pump first!

Bottom line, the slingers are the main filter in these engines. My reckoning is that the fine mesh was added mainly to protect the pump from undue wear. 120° cranks are usually just as full of solid gunk as the 180s, so the portion of ferrous metal in there can't be that big.

piet

PICT1318.JPGPICT1320.JPG
 
Hello all, just an update...I've finally done another 200kms on the bike after first changing the oil/cleaning the filter as mentioned above.
So I have changed the oil again using the same mineral oil and dropped the gauze filter.
The gauze this time was lovely and clean, no fibres at all.
If Clems theory was correct then maybe the first 500kms cleaned out the old oil residue or whatever was causing the fibre to happen.
However, this bike will get checked very regularly.
cheers
Tony
 
Hello all, just an update...I've finally done another 200kms on the bike after first changing the oil/cleaning the filter as mentioned above.
So I have changed the oil again using the same mineral oil and dropped the gauze filter.
The gauze this time was lovely and clean, no fibres at all.
If Clems theory was correct then maybe the first 500kms cleaned out the old oil residue or whatever was causing the fibre to happen.
However, this bike will get checked very regularly.
cheers
Tony

Clem will elbowing St Peter in the ribs….. told you so.
 
Further to this, I just picked up a clutch kit from my local mechanic and discussed soaking it in oil before fitting. He strongly recommended soaking it in the same oil as I normally use, otherwise you can have problems. I said “oh like a sort of fluff buildup which blocks pickups and filters?” He said yes, exactly that, and related his specific experience when changing from Redline to Motul, both full synthetics, where the oil thickened and blocked oil galleries.
 
Very interesting and potentially concerning, Andy. Might be the reason for the dreaded fluff Clem raised the alarm about. I'm using full synth Mobil 1 V-Twin and wonder what will happen if I go to any other full synth - the Mobil 1 is becoming hard to find in Oz and certainly isn't cheap. Might be safer going back to a mineral alternative.
 
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