RGS Head and Engine Removal Procedures

ksoholm

ksoholm

Senior member
Location
Bellingham, WA, USA
Lads,

Two of my exhaust valves tightened up to zero from around .25mm over the last 4K miles, so I suspect either seat and/or valves need work. Engine has 23K miles. The question is if any consensus has formed re removing the head with engine in situ vs. removing the engine?

I read Piet's post re this being debated, and the dangers of unsealing the base gasket during head removal, which would require engine removal to fix anyway. So, what's preferred for head removal?

And what is the best method for removing the engine? I read Paul's description from 16 years ago about planks and walking the bike sideways from the engine - seems doable but also dangerous :-).

What say you lot?

Thanks!
 
I made a crib (crudely, I assure you) i could slide the engine out onto. Wrapped the frame tubes in plumbing insulation to ward off damage. And had a friend on hand to help. It's really not too bad.
 
Hi Kristain I have just done a similar job on my RGA, its easy to remove an RGS engine, disconnect everything including removing carbs and airbox, along with the alloy footrest mount plates then undo the left hand side rubber mounts and through bolts, then remove the front through bolt, the engine will be just sitting there and all you will need to do is raise the front of the engine so the front rubber mounts clear the frame you maybe able to get away with a trolley jack directly under the crankcase and roll the engine to the left lower the jack and the engine should rest on the frame rail, then its up to you to manhandle the engine out 2 blokes can do it easily, good luck.
 
Stressing long crankcase studs into the crankcase is a can of worms not easily fixed if you have issues. Much better to NOT muck with them. Pull the engine.
 
I have long thought that the 9mm through studs must have been fitted to very hot crankcases and maybe even incomplete threads, because when you do take out virgin, factory studs there is a crack going off like a rifle shot, REMOVE ENGINE, then strip top end, while its off have a close look at bottom end without dismantling, new rings are a must, plus glaze bust, as are valve springs and stem oil seals, there is a possibility that the seats are sinking, the valve stems are stretching or the valve heads are "mushrooming" great idea to get it sorted while the problem is fresh. Modern valves dont seem to suffer from this, not sure about seat replacement, hope you dont have to do that, its very often done badly, specialist help is needed, not just "any old engine shop".
CLEM
 
I would tell you my Laverda story, but how could I be sure it's not a figment of my imagination? I could also tell you why I wrote that, but I might have imagined that as well. After all my personal experience isn't anyone else's no matter what they think they know.
 
All previous comments are spot on, just remove the engine. It is easy to do and it is much easier to work on the engine out of the frame anyway. It *is* possible to remove the head without disturbing the base gasket, but if you're comfortable with ring compressors and refitting the barrel etc then it's sensible to just replace it anyway. There's nothing more annoying than that unsightly little base gasket weep once it's all back together.

If you are heavily set on leaving the barrel in situ and trying your luck, with all head bolts released don't prize off the head upwards, lever it off (carefully, obviously!) between head and barrel till the head gasket is completely free of the barrel. That way there is only a downwards force on the barrel / base gasket. If possible, prepare six tubular spacers of length 94mm and inside diameter >9mm beforehand, and slide these over the six short head studs and tighten lightly. This clamps the barrel back against the base gasket while the head is away being repaired for days/weeks/months, I figure this maximises your chances of it not subsequently leaking.
 
breganzane said:
All previous comments are spot on, just remove the engine. It is easy to do and it is much easier to work on the engine out of the frame anyway. It *is* possible to remove the head without disturbing the base gasket, but if you're comfortable with ring compressors and refitting the barrel etc then it's sensible to just replace it anyway. There's nothing more annoying than that unsightly little base gasket weep once it's all back together.

If you are heavily set on leaving the barrel in situ and trying your luck, with all head bolts released don't prize off the head upwards, lever it off (carefully, obviously!) between head and barrel till the head gasket is completely free of the barrel. That way there is only a downwards force on the barrel / base gasket. If possible, prepare six tubular spacers of length 94mm and inside diameter >9mm beforehand, and slide these over the six short head studs and tighten lightly. This clamps the barrel back against the base gasket while the head is away being repaired for days/weeks/months, I figure this maximises your chances of it not subsequently leaking.
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I've taken this to heart - good advice, thanks. Mizewell slap a pair of Ross Corsa pistons on there too -
 
If there should be need (or desire) to fully restore the bike, the easiest way I fould was: strip the bike completely with the engine in the frame still, remove left side screws of the engine, with two people turn the frame with the engine onto some solid foam on its left side, remove the screws on the right side of the engine and lift the frame off the engine. Same when you put it back together: engine on left side, slide the frame over it, fasten right side screws and put the frame and engine upright and go from there. Don't forget to put the center stand on before you put the frame over the engine. Much easier...

cheers
 
Laverdalothar said:
If there should be need (or desire) to fully restore the bike, the easiest way I fould was: strip the bike completely with the engine in the frame still, remove left side screws of the engine, with two people turn the frame with the engine onto some solid foam on its left side, remove the screws on the right side of the engine and lift the frame off the engine. Same when you put it back together: engine on left side, slide the frame over it, fasten right side screws and put the frame and engine upright and go from there. Don't forget to put the center stand on before you put the frame over the engine. Much easier...

cheers
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Yes, a nice way to do it, but this bike is over-restored already. I figured out a nice way to pull the engine myself, let's see if it works as well as I imagine (yeah right).

Now all I have to do is prevent myself from buying Laverda Shop's fuel injection system.
 
We have zero input from anyone who has as well as the 4 valve conversion, go on in the general interests of me spending other people's money feel free to go there. Surely someone must have a go at this.
 
Vince said:
We have zero input from anyone who has as well as the 4 valve conversion, go on in the general interests of me spending other people's money feel free to go there. Surely someone must have a go at this.Y
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Yeah, I'd love to chat with someone who's done it. Good FI would render an immeasurable improvement to these old bangers.
 
One of the locals made his own FI kit for his 120 RGA much modified bike, stupid me was offered a ride years ago but I am not really keen on the possible risk of dropping someone else's bike. That one I regretted not trying.
 
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