RGS not running right - help requested

henrywillms

Hero member
Location
Canada
My RGS has been running great all summer but on the last few rides it has a problem I have not been able to fix so far. Winter is almost here and I would like to resolve it before I run out of time for road testing. Looking for some ideas to diagnose the problem and hopefully fix it. My RGS is a low mile bike I try to keep it well maintained. It has run good last year and this year and I did not make any changes to the bike.

Problem description

Intermittent occurence:

Problem can occur on a whole ride, like for an hour or not at all on the whole ride. It sometimes occurs upon initial start up. If the problem occurs and I stop and restart the bike it can still be present. On the other hand if on initial start it is running great it can stay good the whole ride. Problem can also start during a ride when it had been running great. It is NOT a problem that cuts in and out in short intervals. It's more like it has good days and bad days. I would say it is a problem 70% of the time and ok 30%. It occurs over the whole RPM range.

Bike Specs
Corsa motor with 50k km
WITT optical ignition
Newer coils from Wolfgang maybe 10 years old
Dellorto carbs set up with the usual jets etc and were running good. No visible corrosion/gunk.
NGK 5ohm plug caps
was running B8ES plugs and replaced with BR8ES...no difference
Intake manifolds from Wolfgand last year, been on for two summers

Symptoms when problem is occurring, when it is not there are no symptoms:
Bike starts up as normal when cold
When warm it starts ok but I may have to fiddle with the throttle or enricher a bit to get it to idle. Before the problem or if the problem is not occurring it starts with no such fiddling when warm.
At cruising speeds, RPM in the 3500 to 4500 range its seems a bit sluggish and kind of tractor like. Still rideable and adequate power. It's NOT like dropping a cylinder if you had fouled a plug.

As you slow down for a complete stop it may give a little pop from the exhaust and it will not idle, you have to rev it just a bit to keep it running. Normally it idles fine.
The problem is really felt during acceleration. It is not running as crisp and is down on power. You can still pass cars on the highway no problem, just not the same quickness. When accelerating hard and up-shifting you notice a delay when you close the throttle and then re-open it quickly. There is a little stumble at that time before it accelerates again. And as said earlier it is not accelerating as fast as it should before or after shifting, and across the whole rev range from 3500 to 7000 RPM.
Some of the symptoms are similar to a worn spark plug cap when engine vibrations at certain RPMS when a worn cap does not contact the spark plug. I have had that problem before but this is happening at all RPMS and not consistently.

Fixes and checks

I checked the Dellorto carb bowls to make sure they were clean....all clean, I did not dismantle or clean the carbs. I run all the normal jets etc and it had been running great.
I replaced the 3 spakplugs with new BR8ES from a reputable supplier. The plugs in there did not have many miles on them and they all looked similar and burning good.
One sparkplug cap was a little loose fitting compared to the others but was still making good contact. It was still gripping the threads on the plug terminal and I had to pull it to get it off. I changed it anyway just be sure.
I checked the electrical connections on the coils were tight. I did a wiggle test on the battery, fuse box and Witt box connections. Fuses were all tight. I checked the optical pickup for any moisture or oil, and its saw no wiring problems, visually.
Gas flows good to carbs. Filters clean.
I did not check valves or compression. Valves were checked maybe 3000km ago and holding their gaps.
Intake manifolds were new last year and bike ran fine for two summers after installing them.
Battery is charging at 13.2v with lights on, 14v with lights off, while running at highway speeds.
I did not check the carb balance.

Thoughts guys what to check or replace next?
 
A couple of suggestions, based on my experience.
Check float valves carefully to ensure that the spring loaded plunger cannot be persuaded (wiggled) to move past the detent that retains it in the rubber tipped brass needle. Too light a detent meant my Corsa dropped on to two cylinders a very long way from home cos no fuel flowed in to one carb. A bugger to find the problem!
Given you're in the same country as Wolfgang buy a replacement optical pickup plus DMC main harness. Both have failed (separately!) on bikes I run.

Good luck!
 
Completely rebuild the carbs. There can problems you can't see just by looking in the float bowl. Choke plungers could be leaking fuel among other problems.
Replace all the spark plug caps. They do go bad, even the NGK ones.
Are the spark plug wires relativity new? If not replace them.
Make sure float valves are not sticking. Does it seem to be running rich when it won't idle?
WITT ignition does not like voltages much more than 14.25V. On my RGS it would on occasion when hot regulate at 15V and the WITT ignition would run bad or shut itself off. Currently running a RR of a Yamaha R1.
With bike running, spray water around carb manifolds. This will show you if you have a air leak.
Check the valve clearance.
Do a compression test.
Did this all happen on the same tank of fuel or have you refilled the tank?
Air filter dirty?

Now my best guess is you need to rebuild the carbs.
 
NGK 5ohm plug caps, was running B8ES plugs and replaced with BR8ES...no difference

why run 5 ohm caps and resistor plugs for, you use one or the other, not both together
 
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Optical slotted encoders, having designed their use in the day, estimated that the in service life would be around 2 years, treated as a consumable ostensibly. There is a reason many digital ignitions make use of robust and proven long service life in Laverda, Hall Effect. The Witt has earned its keep, owes you nil, may like to consider a replacement and the peace of mind this usually brings for a ride out and ride home.

Easy things first, Bruce and Rob are long mile users with very practical check list. HTH j.

** Red has spotted the NGK cover and plug with resistor anomaly, each correction has merit, to eliminate unknowns. NGK covers are 5,000 ohms, 5K. The common failure of NGK resistor covers is the resistor element going open circuit and in effect spark erodes itself into an ever widening HV gap to bridge as well as the spark plug gap.
 
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That hanging idle, slow return after full throttle application was an indication of being lean on the main jet. Just something to consider but being intermittent doesn't jibe with that unless as said it's connected to float issues like in Rob's case. I once tried resiser plugs with resistor caps on my Pantah. Got some very odd performances. The bike had issues and I was trying anything I could, it ended up being well out of sink carbs. Learned Merquiry Gauges have a place but fingers up carbs help as well.
 
Thanks guys.....carbs or ignition....if you think it's one it's the other. Based on the intermittent nature....good one day but not the next, that the problem is across the RPM and throttle range, and that plug caps are fairly new maybe a 3000km, carbs rebuild maybe 5000 km ago....I will have to see what my records show to confirm this... could be more, I suspect it could be the optical pickup or wiring.

I was running resistor caps and non resistor plugs when the problem occurred, the plugs looked good but I threw in new resistor plugs anyway....as can't get non resistor plugs anymore in Canada, and it didnt make a difference...same exact symptoms. Also have to get non resistor caps....no more NGK plug caps in Canada or US either it seems anymore.....have to find a new product....what are you guys using??? Will also check carb float needles, and for sticky float etc as well.

I'll try and see if I can get some caps and I will pull the carbs and look more closely next week but suspect if I have to order parts by the time they arrive it may be too damn cold. I think Wolfgang was headed to Germany soon but maybe I can catch him for the Witt pickup and wiring. Hoping for a warm fall to see if I can solve it before winter.....or maybe it will be kind to me and just run have for a few more rides this year.
 
With help from the guys who posted above I resolved the problem and just wanted to close the loop. I tested the NGK sparkplug caps for resistance and found that one was open. I guess on occasion the high voltage would jump the broken connection as the problem was intermittent. The spark plug caps were not that old and didn't have many miles on them. I replaced all three with new NGK 5k ohm straight ones as you can't get the angled ones anymore in Canada. You can get some brands I have never heard of but didn't want to experiment to find how good they were or were not. Also fitted new Champion non resistor plugs as no more NGK non resistor plugs in Canada either.

Interestingly I also tested some other NGK plug caps off the RGS I had replaced the previous time when I thought my problem was a worn cap with a loose connection on the terminal stud. One had a very high resistance (not the one that had been loose) so it would seem between between resistance problems and worn terminal stud connections these caps need to be replaced as maintenance items. I have a couple of used caps that are still good and will put them in my tool tray in case I ever have a problem on a trip.

I have had lots of motorycles and snowmobiles and other vehicles over the years and don't recall having issues with sparkplug caps. Maybe the vibration and heat on the RGS inline 3cyl 120 motor is hard on the sparkplug caps.

Lesson learned....test your sparkplug caps once in awhile, or just replace them when you're doing a tune up.
 
Good job Henry. Always satisfying to get a pos result.

Interesting thing about plug caps, but the NGKs resistor caps on my old SF were put on in about 1977 and ran perfectly until I garaged the bike in about 2001. I'd be surprised if they weren't still working fine - will check with the ohm meter.
 
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