RGS primary cover leaks oil

RGS-Ned said:
Goodluck with the mot. My RGS is away having it's carbs balanced and dynamic timing sorted and an mot done this week. she also has an oil leak from the primary chain tensioner. Just so you know I feel your pain ::)
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As well as leaking past the tensioner bolt (if domed nut is missing) it has been known for the primary case to crack around the tensioner stud, that's where mine leaked. It doesn't sound like your problem but another area worth considering if its been dropped/struck..

Rob
 
Update... The instant gasket helped a lot. Just a little from the same screw and a little at the bottom of the cover. Mozz, those measurements are very useful, looks like mine may be a little long so I will shorten the ones that are giving trouble and I also have some fibre washers which fit nicely. I did earlier have the primary tensioner leaking but I used some copper washers between the domed nut and the lock nut which cured it.    

The good news is that she passed the MOT and I was really heartened by the amount of interest she generated at the test centre (Slipstream tuning in Sevenoaks) Just about everyone had a good look and listen and were very complementary about the bike and my work to refurbish her. Mind you, I did spend the entire previous evening polishing  :)

The bad news was that the fairing and mirrors do shake a lot and I decided to check the mountings today. The main mounting did not seem very tight and so I tightened the long stud with the 17mm bolt at each end.....and "pop" it fell apart  :o  One end has the 17mm nut on a thread. the other end is strange. Same size nut but no thread? I can't tell how it was actually attached to the bolt... a spot of weld?  I'll try to post pics. Sorry to deviate from my own thread but does anyone know where I can get a replacement? If it is supposed to be welded on, maybe i can get it fixed?
 

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It's just a bolt and nut. Recommended to get a high tensile one, had a chat to John (IIS) about this bolt the other day and he recommends 9.8 or 10.9 grade, no higher or it is too brittle. I think M10 is the size but check. Cosi has had a few of these break but he was using 8.8 HT bolts which may not be strong enough I suspect.

 
Oh, well that's good news. I'm no engineer and I don't even know how to check if it's an M10! So if one of the technical experts would confirm exactly what to go asking for, I'll be sorted.

Thanks in advance.
 
Did you use a 17mm spanner on it?
If so, likely an M10

M6 = 10mm spanner
M8 = 13mm spanner
and so on.
 
Thanks Grant and Drikko, yes 17. OK, I have enough to go get one. Seems like a DPO stuck as mine is not a bolt. No wonder it broke.

 
 
andrew_uk said:
Thanks Grant and Drikko, yes 17. OK, I have enough to go get one. Seems like a DPO stuck as mine is not a bolt. No wonder it broke.

 
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Just remember we are all DPO to someone. :o
                                                            Dave
 
Well whoever takes on my Laverda can call me a Dead Previous Owner because I'll never sell it

And it will have a 10.9 M10 bolt because I found one on Ebay  :)
 
Andrew, so far i have broken 3 of these bolts, the factory issue is 8.8, i went up to a 10.9 and that broke within about 500ks, The higher tensile strenght the more brittle it will be,

Im back to 8.8 but gonna try mild steel next time, I think it needs some flex there as its the only point attaching the faring to the frame,

Check your fairing bracket for cracks around the sleeve and the ears, thatll be the next thing to go
 
Andrew (and Cosi).. when you get that bolt, check it for clearance inside the mounting tube. It must be very firm. Over time the tube does wear and if the bolt is not firm in there the whole thing rattles and vibrates. I believe this to be one of the reasons that these bolts fail..early clue is vibey mirrors. Easy job to get it resleeved if required to your new bolt.

8)

 
Thanks Cosi and Ian. If it's prone to failing, should I be looking at a lower rating? I've ordered a 8.8 and a 10.9 and I don't know what's best to fit. My "original" did not fail until I tightened it... unless that's the reason someone welded the nut on one end. I can't tell what rating it was...I guess the original 8.8. I will check the fit and I think I'll opt for the 8.8.     
 
Only good answer to that Andrew is to fit what you decide and ALWAYS have a spare stashed on the bike for that 'little' emergency.. like tape it down in the tool tray or something..

8)
 
Ah! A topic that I may be able to help out on. Had the same thing happen to the yellow peril years ago, on the way to the Fire and Ice Rally in 1987: solved the possibly recurring problem by ditching the aluminium sleeve inside the mount and fitting the largest diametre bolt that would fit, had to ream out the mount on the steering stem as well but haven't broken a bolt since. I also have the lower fairing supported by a bracket that is attached to the down tubes just below the oil cooler. No wobbly fairing and buzz-free mirrors.

Terry
 
Thanks Alan, that's very useful. I was wondering what the high mileage RGS owners had to say.

Courtesy of Ebay, I now have 2x 10.9 and 4x 8.8 so I will definitely fit one and tape one to the frame. The rubber on mine looks fine. The bolts do have play in the sleeve but it does not look like wear. I'll tighten it all up and see what it's like.

       
 
andrew_uk said:
and tape one to the frame       
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Sounds like your tool box is as full as Levo's, you could do a full engine rebuild with what he carries around!! Pretty sure I've seen him use every tool in there at some time too..... :D :D
 
drikko said:
Sounds like your tool box is as full as Levo's, you could do a full engine rebuild with what he carries around!! Pretty sure I've seen him use every tool in there at some time too..... :D :D
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No wonder the bike falls over so much with all that top-heavy weight!
 
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