laverda180
Junior member
- Location
- Amberley, New Zealand
Hi All, any developments on attempts to repair the freewheel surface for the starter spray clutch rollers? I have a series 2 starter clutch with, you guessed it just about all components shot; back plate loose, springs broken, housing cracked with multiple chips, housing (bolts to generator) worn by rollers, chipped rollers, etc.. So all new parts required, would be nice to find a way to save the freewheel if at all possible. The roller surface is 49,65mm diameter and mostly looks good, but on the leading edge it is showing some signs of flaking as if it is hard coated, hence why I am thinking to have it repaired. I believe it is original and it seems logical to have hardened this surface somehow. So cutting out and replacing with a modern hard coat or fitting the inner race from a needle bearing and grinding back were first thoughts before reading this discussion. So any recent developments?
So the starter torque is transmitted to the crank through the clutch bolts attaching clutch to back of ND rotor (someone in the past has removed the three pins as generally recommended but did not punch or otherwise secure the screws) and in turn to crank through taper fit of ND rotor! So really three loose screws can handle more torque than a well applied suitable hard coat or bearing inner race properly shrink fitted and ground to size? It would seem so and that it is the pure violence of the rollers engaging on the freewheel that breaks inner rings and coatings.
Second topic re the freewheel. It?s very sloppy on the crank, needle bearing is in good order (FAG DHK3016) as is crank at 30,00mm so I assume that yes by design this needle bearing is oversized for the crank and usually has little or no function as the freewheel sort of floats between needle bearings and clutch rollers when engine is running.
Finally what?s happened re Steve Winterton and Calere? Steve did all the work on my Jota before it was laid up for 20 years and I became pre-occupied with kids and then desert biking. Jota was straight back out on the road last year with little more attention than test, register and fresh fuel. First ride 1000km return across the Alps to Italy which was great, but clearly it was in need of its current teardown. Would be great to touch base with Steve again.
So the starter torque is transmitted to the crank through the clutch bolts attaching clutch to back of ND rotor (someone in the past has removed the three pins as generally recommended but did not punch or otherwise secure the screws) and in turn to crank through taper fit of ND rotor! So really three loose screws can handle more torque than a well applied suitable hard coat or bearing inner race properly shrink fitted and ground to size? It would seem so and that it is the pure violence of the rollers engaging on the freewheel that breaks inner rings and coatings.
Second topic re the freewheel. It?s very sloppy on the crank, needle bearing is in good order (FAG DHK3016) as is crank at 30,00mm so I assume that yes by design this needle bearing is oversized for the crank and usually has little or no function as the freewheel sort of floats between needle bearings and clutch rollers when engine is running.
Finally what?s happened re Steve Winterton and Calere? Steve did all the work on my Jota before it was laid up for 20 years and I became pre-occupied with kids and then desert biking. Jota was straight back out on the road last year with little more attention than test, register and fresh fuel. First ride 1000km return across the Alps to Italy which was great, but clearly it was in need of its current teardown. Would be great to touch base with Steve again.
