its an age old problem
tying the bike down using only un-sprung components is probably the best, in theory, that is the way that I do it with cars and so does everyone else (pretty much) strapping them down to the trailer by the wheels, using strangle straps, I would be happy to do this with bikes,using the fork sliders at the front and the wheel itself at the back, but that means the straps are too low and at a very shallow angle, so I strap down using the handlebar ends and the rear carrier or sub-frame, this means that the bike cannot move about on its springs, which I would prefer it to do, it does work OK but I did once experience a problem (on route Breganze 2017) when the trailer went over a very large pot hole which I did not see, black tarmac hole full of black water, the crash "in" was enough to compress the springs on TOG even further than the tension that I had applied and on rebound was enough to break a strap, maybe that strap had a tiny flaw or rip, I don't know, but for sure it broke, and I stopped and replaced it. What I did not notice (very stupid of me not to check) was that the wheel which had traversed the road defect had also suffered, two studs had snapped and the nuts gone, the other two were also damaged and (maybe) 50 miles later the wheel was clattering loose, was damaged and only one nut remaining, with 600 miles to go to home, I was very lucky to be near the house of a Swiss Laverda friend, whose workshop proved invaluable for repairs which lasted without further trouble for the remainder of the journey, even though they were very much bush engineered temporary fixes, thankfully a spare wheel is carried, so that helped, studs were swapped from the good side and plain bolts used to fill all vacant holes. ( I now carry in addition to a spare wheel, replacement studs and nuts and a few of the bolts just in case.... and always a few spare straps, so beware
CLEM