Screwed again, tighten too much head cover bolt

mkavci9

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Slovenija
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What you suggest me now? I have spare part to change,, because i have one other engine,, but I don't want to dissasemble  camshafts again. because mechanic just adjusted Valve Clearance and changed chains. But i think that there is no other solution.

Dose exist some really strong glue for alloy?  I'm so pissed off,,, that I can't explain.. I wanted to prevent oil leaking , but there really wasn't need to tight it so much..

thanks

 
Change it.
If you have to apply that much force to the screws to ensure oil tightness then I think your rubber gasket is too thin.
 
I built mine up with araldite. Not the best engineering solution but it works fine. Just go easy with the allen key. Oh and it doesn't leak from the cam cover either.
 
do you suggest wellding it? or is dangerous that alloy will change measures - tolerances due to high temperature? Anyway, as someone told me, I can't change only this part, is recomended to change all three alloy "bearings" and maybe camshaft to..? what is your opinion ?

thanks
 
Normally caused by either the screw being too long or the copper washer being omitted from the cam cover, either way you are going to need a new cam bearing, but check everything is ok before refitting the cam cover, would be a double pisser to do the same thing to the replacement bearing.


    Keith 
 
mkavci9 said:
do you suggest wellding it? or is dangerous that alloy will change measures - tolerances due to high temperature? Anyway, as someone told me, I can't change only this part, is recomended to change all three alloy "bearings" and maybe camshaft to..? what is your opinion ?

thanks

  You can change one bearing no problem, the factory did not match cam bearing sets. They can be an endless source of messing around however, if you got a couple of pennies spare a set of Reds billet bearings are a very worthwhile improvement.


  Keith
 
Look for the problem first if you have an oil leak, new cam cover gasket / screw to long / no copper washer /
you should not have to tighten it that much, If you Do as Keath suggests I will probably only have to change one shim if lucky

what a downer good luck

Jugs
 
thanks guys.. will see what I'm gona to do.. probably I will try to glue it.. if it wouldn work, i will change with a used bearing.. hope that it will be ok...

 
I had a cam block welded to fix a break like yours. The repair worked OK, but I eventually replaced the block with a set of billet bearings.  I did try replacing the damaged block with one sourced from another engine, but the cam would not spin freely.

The break was caused by over tightening in an attempt to seal persistently leaking.  I tried new cam cover gaskets from three different suppliers, but they all leaked, even the thick ones.  Eventually had success with a gasket that I sourced from Phil. 
 
sorry , I'm not native English speaker. What you wanted to tell with this " The repair worked OK, but I eventually replaced the block with a set of billet bearings.  " 
Did welded solution did proper job? Or did it broke again? 
 
My cam block that was welded was the centre exhaust block.   
Later, I had trouble with the right exhaust block, which seemed to be collapsing, so that I needed to fit a shim under the block to get the cam to spin freely.  That is one of the reasons that I replaced all three with a billet set.

When the cam block was welded, we fitted a dummy shaft to the cam hole and also bolted the block together, this to prevent heat distortion.  The aluminium did not weld perfectly, as the material became porous under heat.  We added quite a bit of material around the top of the block to add strength to the repair.   

Hope that helps.
 
Grant said:
Change it.
If you have to apply that much force to the screws to ensure oil tightness then I think your rubber gasket is too thin.

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I see Win10 has buggered up some of my letters in the ad !!
 
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